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MG TD TF 1500 - Where to begin?

About 12 months ago I purchased what appears to be called a "basket case" TF (TF6094). The car is almost complete and many new parts were included. It would seem that the car was dismantled in the 70's and partly restored but never re-assembled. I have just re-united all the parts in a new shed (A man needs a shed),organised space to spread out all the bits,housed my limited tools and installed a beer fridge. My question is, where do I start? I will have the chassis powder coated, the engine (1250) looks to have been rebuilt but I will have that done for me to be sure. so.. Back suspension? front? any clues would be very handy!
Tony Griffin
Tony Griffin

At the beginning.

Too many start with the engine and then it sits for several years which is not good.

1) For many, the hardest part is the the body tub, so start with it and all of the other painted components. It takes the most time, and quite often consumes the most labor. Depending on your skill and the work that needs doing, all you might need to purchase is the materials to paint it. The frame can sit outside while the tub is painted. Store the loose panels in the attic or hang from the regular garage rafters after painting.

2) Clean, and finish the bare frame.

3) Place the frame on jack stands and set the body tub on it.

4) Now you've got someplace to store, install that is, each component as it's finished.

5) I would complete the running gear and brakes next.

6) Take EVERYTHING apart to clean, inspect, repair or replace. The only thing you might want to leave alone or send to specialists are the instruments.

7) Work on all of the small stuff, starter, dynamo, carbs, electrics, etc.

8) Leave the engine and tranny towards the last.

9) Don't add any fluids to anything until the car is done.

My TD was on the road two weeks after the engine was installed.
Blake

Number one job is send the dash board instruments to the restorers and a selection of chrome bits to the platers. When they come back wrap them up in tissue paper and store them in a big box under your dining room table. When times get rough (and believe me they will) pull out the box and polish all the bits - its the best morale booster there is.

Good luck

Jan T
J Targosz

Tony,

First, make sure you have the fridge fully stocked! It would be a shame to run out of beer....

I like Blake's list. I have completed all of his items except numbers 1,3,9. The first summer I did the chassis, including the front and rear suspension, brakes, steering, pedal box/shaft, wheels/tires. During the winter I did the transmission and carbs. For the last 9 months or so, I've been doing the small stuff including Blakes #7 and the horns, wiper motor, chrome, instruments, radiator grill, fan, water pump, distributor, manifolds, air cleaner, valve cover, etc. Depending on the condition of you parts, this can take many hours to complete. I am completing the engine today, and hope to paint it tomorrow. Next week I'll start on the tub and then the interior.

You can start anywhere, but I would break things up and follow a logical order. You might want to spread the "small stuff" out over the whole project, bit by bit. You can use a small item as a change of pace if you get bogged down on a bigger item. (Or when you have to wait on parts to arrive.)

Did I remember to mention beer?

Good luck with the project!
Evan Ford - TD 27621

Well, at least you're smart enough to ask. I started a "Super-Major" project and just went to it. I made it a point of asking many questions about individual items but now about how to do the project. Not quite done yet but making very good progress.

When I do a project, it becomes all consuming (my wife says) and I treat it like a job (which I have).

I decided what I wanted to send out to have done and what I wanted to do myself.

Chrome, I sent out. I then decided to get help with the engine and body, to speed the project along.

I had a goal of June 8, 2003 for a local car show, but now I guess the goal is the Midwest GOF at the end of July.

I can't afford to take time to tell the whole story - and it's not done anyway - but I've taken some pictures along the way.
I'm now working on getting a weekly video on my web site for those loyal followers - actually I need to learn how to make videos, so this was a good opportunity to do it. The web site is http://www.dunlavy.us

In summary, 99.9% parts are here. Chassis, drive line done - not assembled. Body in final prime and Red paint starting today.
I guess I want to see engine running by end of May and driving by July 1.
Oh yes, another goal I always have is to put 500 miles on a vehicle locally before I go on tour. This has been especially helpfull with the Model T Ford's and airplanes I've done.
Good luck.
Dave Dunlavy

Tony's question was "where to begin?"

All the respondents seem to have answered the second question. May I suggest you begin by visiting your friendly bank manager? The beer, chrome, divorce, etc., come later.
Geoff Love

Tony,

Without a doubt start at Blake's #1. If you plan on doing it yourself then without a doubt the body work will be the hardest to do. Absolutely, positively the worst part of the rebuild. I had the engine, transmission, chassis, and running gear completed within a couple of years. Finishing the body and fenders took another 7 (I'm a slow worker when I get frustrated). It was either back-off or beat it to pieces with a big hammer.

Gene

Gene Gillam

Thanks for all the advice! I am still unpacking many of the boxes of parts that came with the car. In one box, under an old wiring harness I found two new driving lights and a pair of aero screens. I suppose I knew in my heart of hearts where I should start, with the difficult and expensive! Surely there are some cheap yet rewarding tasks? The days are getting short and the nights cold here so I can see lots of cleaning in the near future. Blake and Evan seem to have a logical programme, Dave, great pics. I'm off to stock the fridge.
cheers Tony
Tony

I find it helps a great deal to stand and stare at the project, walk around it a few times, poke at a few parts, maybe pick up a wrench or screwdriver, stare some more, then go in the house to watch the ball game.
Been doing it since I bought my 53 TD back in '96.

During baseball season, it's often too hot to go out to the garage. By the time football season gets into full swing, it's usually too cold out there. I can stand and stare for only a few minutes at a time.

This winter I took a few months off to get my hips replaced, quicker than rebuilding the front end, as it turned out. Also purchased a derelict 52, to keep the 53 company. Now that's progress.

Pete W


Peter Whelan

Seems I read a horror story somewhere 'bout a guy who did his brakes early in the restoration and then several years later when he finished and drove the car one of his front brakes locked up and flipped the car. I plan on putting the brakes in at the very end of the restoration (which could be sometime late in Chelsea Clinton's second presidential term!!!)
Robert

re "another goal I always have is to put 500 miles on a vehicle locally before I go on tour"

I'd suggest to reassemble the car, have it roadworthied/licenced etc and do those 500 miles before putting the final color coat on.

There will inenvitably be a lot of 'adjustments' & tweaking here and there as your car gets used to being back on the road; its easier to avoid falling tools marring the paint this way.
Will

"I'm now working on getting a weekly video on my web site for those loyal followers - actually I need to learn how to make videos, so this was a good opportunity to do it. The web site is http://www.dunlavy.us"

That WORKSHOP is the stuff dreams are made of, David!!

I'll add it to the xmas wishlist... ;)
Will

For me, I started with the frame, suspension and brakes. This allowed me to have a rolling chassis that I could use to check how my body alignment was going and also allowed me to move the frame out of the shop when I wanted to work on the body. I personally don't like having the body parts either in primer or freshly painted sitting around the shop. To many chances for my butterfingers to drop things on them.
Bruce Cunha

Robert:

<<<snip>>>
I plan on putting the brakes in at the very end of the restoration
<<<snip>>>

That's why I said "NO FLUIDS" until the car is done. In regards to the brakes, DON'T use brake fluid as suggested in the workshop manual to lubricate the seals. Use the red rubber grease that comes with some master cylinder kits, or use disk brake lube. These will not damage the seals or rust the cylinders while it is waiting for completion. If you check brand new cylinders you will find they are lubricated with the red rubber grease so they can sit on the shelf for awhile.

Notice I did suggest the running gear early on so you could move the car about.

After the frame is finished and the tub replaced, most of the body panels can go back on. But, they are just as likely to get dinged from moving around the car, or other objects moved about in the shop. That's why I would store them in the attic until you're read to assemble the car. If everything is ready to install, it doesn't take long to assemble the car.

Blake
Blake

I purchased my 53 TD 4 years ago. It was a previos attempt at a restoration and came in 5 gallion buckets. I started with the motor just to see if I could get the thing to move under its own power.
I had intension of driving it more than showing it.
Then I went on to body etc. I just this week finaly applied for the plates.
It is about 85% restored and I have done all but chrome work myself. I plan to finish the remainder as time goes on while I try to enjoy it plus I am already thinking about another car
C Tarr

C Tarr:

Where in PA are you? I'm in Yardley (easternmost side of PA), and am working on a '53 TD as well.

Ira Spector
Ira Spector

Well, I'm in Pittsburgh, and Blake's list is about what I did with my 79 Spitfire, which is keeping the 52 TD company.

The work I've done so far to the TD is the same; a lot of stripping off parts, removing body panels and tossing away rotted carpet and wood.

Any suggestions on BSW bolts and repair of Jaeger gagues?
RM Kaplan

<<<Snip>>>
Any suggestions on BSW bolts
<<<snip>>>
YOu can get assortments of BSF, which is what you want, from Abingdon spares. They may also have assortments of the special fasterenes used on the engine and transmission, i.e. metric thread and BSF heads.

I've heard people recommend Nissonger and Momo. I've never had to use a gauge specialist.
Blake

RM,

I had my gauges done by Nisonger. On came back perfect, the other had a scratch on it; which they made good on when i sent it back. My car was a barn car. I did the mechanical items first, and drove it for a year, to see if i liked it. Then I decided to do the body work. For a car that comes in boxes this is not an option.
Ira Spector

Allan, Toodyay, W.A.
I started with a TF1500,complete car,( owned it since 1967) but knew the wooden sil timbers were rotten so started there but the further I went the more rotten timber I found till finally the tub was in several pieces.Made new timbers and reassembled. Next stripped,straightened,rewelded and painted chassie.Cleaned,repaired repainted and refitted suspension,breakes and break lines.Checked the the tub for fit on the chassie and sent all the body bits away for painting,had it done in two pack,I haven't got the gear to do that.In the meantime was getting the chrome work done in small lots($) Next,got stuck into the motor and drive train.Had most of this back together by the time the body came back pretty much in time to assemble it.Done all the little bits & pieces inbetween times so I didn't get frustrated with the big jobs.Got it on the road & registered so I could drive it to the ulholsteres.No devorce but the Wife does say she was a shed widow for 2 years, only woreout one beer fridge!
Keep at it,the end result is worth it.

Allan.
A.J. NEWTON

Gday Allan,
What colour scheme did you decide on for the TF?
Is it still Birch Grey and red upholstery?

Cheers, Matthew Birch 1500 #9097
Matthew Magilton


MATTHEW,
CHEERS FROM THE WEST,I'M IN W.A.NOT NORTHERN TERRITORY.
YES,STAYED WITH BIRCH GREY WITH RED LEATHER.
MAROON PIPING AROUND THE GUARDS.FROM WHAT WE COULD FIND OF THE OLD SIDE CURTAINS THEY WERE A SILVER GREY(POSSIBLY AN AUST.ADDITION) SO HAVE HAD THE HOOD AND CURTAINS REMADE IN THE SAME COLOUR,LOOKS DIFFERENT BUT I HAVE REALLY GOT LIKE IT.
REGARDS ALLAN 9790
A.J. NEWTON

Am I ever glad to read where I am not the only one! I have been off and on with my TD since 1999. Doing the painting myself and am about ready to set the tub on the chassis. BUT I AM REALLY HATING THE CAR. I keep telling myself if someone was dumb enough to pay me the cash I have in the car, it is theirs! And than I reconsider. It is almost there. As old as I am I better get cranking on it! Cheers.
Bill Thienes

Tony Griffin,

I found a website yesterday (25 June, 2003) that showed a complete TF restoration. The car was in a barn for 30 years, taken out in 2001. The man did a good job and he did it step by step. There are a lot of pictures. He is located in San Leandro, California.

His website is:
www.jagpromotions.com/restoration/mg/mgtf1500.htm

Hope this helps

Ray Pittenger
1952 TD
1954 TF-1250
Ray Pittenger

Thanks Ray, and everyone else who contributed!
Your advice has been extraordinarily helpful.
Cheers
Tony
Tony

This thread was discussed between 06/05/2003 and 27/06/2003

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