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MG TD TF 1500 Upper steering column BBS discussion at MG-Cars.net
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MG TD TF 1500 - Upper steering column
| I am missing both the distance piece and the key for the upper steering shaft assembly. Can anyone provide the dimensions or a photo of these parts? I'd like to make them myself. A nice clear photo of the the upper shaft assembly (below the steering wheel)is strangely absent from all the archives I've searched, (including D Dubois's and the original TF gallery), and I can't quite make out from the exploded view parts drawings how the assembly with the steel spring, etc goes together. Anybody have one? |
| T W Moore |
| TW. Email me your telephone number and i will call you.I most likely have some of the parts you need Sandy Sanders |
| SANDY |
| Here is an exploded diagram that should get you there. I have made several keys. I keep putting them where they cant get lost and then I forget. I use standard 3/16 key stock by 1/2 long round the edges. As I look at mine I see I am missing the "Distance Piece". Do you have a length and I will make one out of SS and polish it. Jim B  |
| JA Benjamin |
| I forgot to give the URL http://www.abingdonsparesllc.com/catpg23detail.html Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| TW. The distance tube just slips over the shaft and keeps the key that Jim showed you from falling out. So the ID is just slightly larger than your shaft OD. The length is about 3/4 long. The thickness is not critical but its about 1/16" thick. Its all hidden so no need to get too carried away. Its unfinished steal. You could probably use a copper pipe if the ID was correct. |
| Christopher Couper |
| After looking again at the Abingdon exploded view I decided to post this picture. The key, which is covered by the chrome clamp is facing you in the picture. There is a grove in the spline requiring the bolt to be in the position shown. Its what I have but there is no "Distance" piece. According to Abingdon it should go between the cup and the collapsible spring or under the spring? The thing that has always bothered me is the lack of something between the clamp and the column where the upper felt washer/oiler goes! I just looks like something should be there. Jim B.  |
| JA Benjamin |
| Appreciate helpful comments. Travelling till Tues so will get back to my steering shaft midweek. |
| T W Moore |
| Jim, Most likely your outer column is slid forward a little too much. The lower end flange with the plate/screws should be almost against the lower clamp. If there is a big space (about the distance of your gap), loosen the clamps and slide the outer column toward the wheel and no more gap. George |
| George Butz |
| Thanks George. I will try that in the morning. Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| I moved the outer column this morning and now the gap is gone. However The "distance" piece is still throwing me. The chrome clamp retains the key just fine. It must go where it is due to the orthogonal grove in the column. That is just where the key is. There seems to be no room to insert another sleeve, unless its very thin under the chrome clamp. It does not seem to be useful. To move the outer sleeve one must loosen both the clamp that allows for up and down motion and the clamp under the hood just before the firewall. You must also be sure the draught excluder is loose. I still think there should be a cap there to finish off the end of the column but I suppose wit it open its possible to get lubrication down the column. Jim B.  |
| JA Benjamin |
| I think maybe the sleeve slips over the splines and just centers the chrome spring somewhat? Been a long time since I have been into a column so not sure. George |
| George Butz |
| Well it sounds like the mysterious distance piece is either A: to centralize/stabilize the chrome spring B: of no real function at all I'm leaning toward making a small, inconspicuous, thin cup to fit over the end of the outer column (similar to the chrome one)to make it "look right" and to trap the felt seal as a safety measure to ensure it doesn't work its way out. Does anyone have a photo of the upper shaft assembly with the distance piece in place? There are rumours here in the frozen north that TF's didn't always have a distance piece. Comment? |
| T W Moore |
| The felt cannot come out as the spring cup retains it. The only distance piece is the one inside the clamp to avoid crushing the outer column tube (part number S55/31) Ray TF 2884 |
| Ray Lee |
| Must be a very thin wall cylinder as per C Couper note above. Anybody able to actually measure one? Could it be the felt "bushing" comes out when the chrome "spring" expander piece doesn't fit snugly between the back of the steering wheel and the steering column ie steering wheel is positioned too far out? |
| T W Moore |
| Is the key necessary? The shaft which is fitted to the steering wheel is splined so is locked to the steering column. The only use I can see for the key is to prevent the steering wheel spline being pulled out of the column. Assuming the clamp bolt is tight everything should be solid. The reason I raise this is a short while ago someone was having a problem centerings their steering wheel. If the key was left out the position of the wheel could be fine tuned using the spline. Happy Christmas Jan T |
| J Targosz |
| Hi Jan, I havn't had the key in for 40 years, it is my anti-theft device when touring. The wheel goes into our accommodation with us.The clamp is tight enough to stop the wheel moving. The fact that the car has a flyoff handbrake,very little synchro left and a fuel cut off probably is enough to save it. Don Jackson referred to in the post on rocker oiling had his handbrake lever physically ripped out of the tunnel in an attempted theft. Ray TF 2884 |
| Ray Lee |
| Jan, I think it was me you are referring to. I couldn't get the wheel where I wanted it without re doing the rack and tie rods. I left the key out, got the wheel centered, tightened the clamp and that's the end of that story. Grin. And yes I agree, pretty tough to drive away in one of these without a steering wheel!PJ |
| Paul S Jennings |
| Hi Ray and Paul, I'm pleased I raised the issue of dispensing with the key. My car has only been to the bottom of the drive and back and one day the road wheels and steering wheel look to be in alignment and the next day they don't. Anyone got a good way of ensuring the wheels are pointing exactly sttaight ahead? I'm certainly going to use Ray's anti theft device. We have a bicycle in the shed that has a sort of leaver that you lift and then use as a spanner to adjust the seat hight. I wonder if one of these could be adapted for the steering column clamp. A 5/16 spanner on my key ring would be a little bulky but then I wouldn't miss place them so easilly! Jan T |
| J Targosz |
| If you are leaving the key out don't bother about alignment,wait until the car is on the road and set it then. Get it near enough then fine tune with track rod adjustment.Until you have a long stretch of road you wont get it right. I used a QR lever on mine for a few years and then gave it away and never got round to fitting a new one.It worked perfectly. Ray TF 2884 |
| Ray Lee |
| Hi to the 'keyless' club, I would like to join too, never seen the point in the key. Cheers, John |
| J C Mitchell |
| Since my TD is about done, I started cleaning up the garage in an attempt to recover some of my work bench. I found one of the keys I made, On of those I put somewhere it would not get lost and then forgot where I put it. If anyone needs it I can mail it. Jim B. |
| JA Benjamin |
| Hi Ray, Is this a QR leaver Jan T  |
| J Targosz |
| Yes Jan that is the quick release lever. I used a chrome one off a wheel spindle cause it looked like it belonged!. In the locked position it folded nicely into the clamp.Might look for a dumped bike for another one. Ray TF 2884 |
| Ray Lee |
| Too late to update. I removed its nut and machined a new one to fit the TF clamp bolt. Ray |
| Ray Lee |
This thread was discussed between 14/12/2014 and 21/12/2014
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