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MG TD TF 1500 - td/2 engine td transmission

Hi,
Driven 5k miles in the last year in my 52 td on Oahu in Hawaii. Second gear has started to knock. Have "spare" transmission with small clutch that my repair manual says will not interchange. True? How about the Moss motors trans conversion? Expensive compared to shop rebuild?
Also getting a tick tick from a valve. Adjusted and no change. Pulled plugs and found heavy white deposit on 1 and 4. Often forgot to add lead to fuel. Wet/dry compression check should tell if valve job is needed- true? Using synthetic 15w50 - it's hot here.
Aloha,
Jeff Hossellman
J.L. Hossellman

Jeff,

The gearbox itself is pretty much the same on both 7 1/4ins clutch and the later 8 ins clutch. The solution is to take the bell housing (which matches your 8ins clutch) from your existing transmission and put this bell housing on your spare gearbox and it's as simple as that. As an aside, when the bell housing is removed you will be able to check the first motion shaft bearing. The cage on this bearing is prone to disintegration, so just check it looks ok.

Good Luck
Graham (honorary Dave)
TD/C 7822
G.D. Smith

Graham,

Thank you, that's great. The "book" at E.9 says the gearboxes are not interchangeable "because the clutch thrust race is in a different position relative to the engine bell housing, and the clutch shaft and thrust face position is also different in the gearbox bell housing".
With that in mind are we good to go? Can't say I understand all that. But at the least I will need to replace or bush the clutch lever as the shaft is different.

I've spent the last hour reading the archives on rebuild and really don't want to go there!!

Aloha and Mahalo nui loa.
Jeff
TD 10828
J.L. Hossellman

Jeff - "With that in mind are we good to go?"

Yes, you will need a new seal for the input shaft and a new bell housing to transmission gasket. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Jeff,

I'm pretty sure there is no bell housing to transmission gasket, but a thin layer of aviation sealer or RTV may be advisable.

I completly agree that a new oil seal is advisable as Dave suggested and as Graham (the honorary Dave) pointed out, the keepers or retainer on the front bearing tend to disintigrate as well. I think if I had the gearbox out, I would at least take it apart and inspect for layshaft wear and selector fork wear, and replace all the bearings and end spacers.

With respect to the valve tick, and the white deposit, a compression check is in order, but first set the valves to .020 cold. If the valves are noisy, set them to .018 cold and see if there is a difference. I'm assuming you have the stock head and cam for your engine. Let us know what the compression check shows.

I don't think a lead additive is essential for running a well used XPAG on unleaded fuel, even without hardened seats. On the next rebuild, you may want to go with hard seats. These engines are typically good for about 50,000 miles a rebuild.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Hi,
The spare gearbox is installed. The box is smooth like a new car. Just got lucky. My knuckle is much better today too, I can just about close my hand!
Still haven't put the cover on, just like to look at the box!!
Will do compression test with my new gauge from Moss Motors.
Aloha and thanks again for all your help. I have been reading these pages for years for help so thanks too to the web master.
Jeff
J.L. Hossellman

jeff, before i jump in on this i have to ask, why are you using a lead additive in your fuel? regards, tp
tom peterson

This thread was discussed between 28/08/2008 and 10/09/2008

MG TD TF 1500 index

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