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MG TD TF 1500 - T Series Brakes

Can other T series owners share their tips on how to improve the brakes? My 1953 TD has a new MC,new brake hoses, new brake lines, unions, shoes and wheel cylinders. The brakes have been bled 3 or 4 times. Another TD owner said that they work fine, for a TD. But, compared to my '60 MGA (front discs, rear drums) and my '77 MGB, the TD brakes feel sluggush and softer. I love the handling of the TD, but the brakes are a bit soft by comparison. They do stop the car, but my fear is that someone will pull out in front of me and they won't be quick enough (we have a lot of deer around here in Bucks County, PA, too).

Any suggestions?
Ira Spector

You could try adding a booster, or converting to discs at the front. Or you could do both, sounds expensive though.
Bob Simpson

Ira - The problem you are experiencing may be that, even with all your bleeding (of the brakes), you still have air in the wheel cylinders. If you look at the bleeders on the TD, you will see that they only bleed the brake lines, not the cylinders themselves. Once I figured this out, I disconnected the banjo bolts from the cylinders and used a syringe to fill the cylinders with brake fluid and then reconnected the banjo bolts. It is a messy job, but the end result was good solid brakes. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

If you can get all 4 wheels to lock then they are working, find a quiet road and at approx 30 - 40 mph, stamp on the brakes, ( make sure nobody is behind you ) if you leave 4 marks on the road from the tyres, then the tyres are limiting your braking, if not then you need to sort the brakes. Remember guys used to race T's, so the brakes should be fine.
Tatty

Guys STILL race T-series MGs. On my TF race car I use a kevlar-based lining done by Ted Schumacher at T&S Imports (look up his website). Never had a problem bleeding the system, but I realize others apparently have, so do whatever it takes to get the air out. Wornout drums are a potential problem. I fitted alfins to the race car--expensive, but look and perform magnificently.
Reed Yates

Hi Reed, thats why I said used to, in the good old days before green stuff and kevlar, Alfins will only help to keep them cool, but he should be able to get good performance from stock shoes dont you agree.
Tatty

Ira, make sure that the front backing plates are on the correct side. The two are different. Also, make sure that both forward cylinders push DOWNWARD on the lower brake shoe of the front brakes.
I can lock up all four wheels with hard braking on my car and thats about as good as it gets.
Jim Merz

Sounds more like a bleeding issue, or a need to arch the shoes to match the drums. Raced my MKII for a number of years with bog stock bits. Stopped OK, remember, its not a B. Best of luck.
Paul
Paul Gaynor

All other things being OK (Bleeding, lines, hoses, etc.) the best way to improve the braking is to have the drums and shoes machined to match each other. If your shoes are slightly oval then the contact area is reduced dramatically. I have totaly rebuilt my braking system on my 1950TD including new metal lines (the older they are the more clogged they will be with rust etc.), new hoses, stainless sleeves in rebuilt cylinders, and machine matching. I can easily outbrake an MGB and regularly do in competition.
Phil Stafford

While you are on the subject of brakes: have completely replaced the brake system on my '51 MGTD and in looking through the different opinions on the BB decided to use silicone (Dot 5) brake fluid rather than the old type Dot 3. Can anyone tell me the secret to stoping the leaks? I have the left rear, at the banjo connection that I so far, have been unable to stop from leaking. I went so far as polishing the brass washers to reduce the irregularaties on the mating surfaces, thinking that might help. Wonder if anyone has used aluminum washers, softer than brass, in the hope that the clamping forces on the aluminum would deform the aluminum washers more easily and give a better seal. I am concerned that if I continually increase the force on the wrench handle, expensive parts may start to fail.
Jim Smith

Ran across this a couple years ago. The banjo surfaces were perfectly flat and scratch free, as was the wheel cyl metal. Turned out that the bolt (or adaptor- don't remember which) was cracked! Look at the wall thickness- they are very thin with the deep threads and hole in the middle. If you have not, remove the banjo and carefully inspect it for even a small radial scratch. You can reface if needed. Same for the wheel cylinder. Also, the copper washers are really single use. After they are smushed the first time, they do not work very well- so sanding smooth does remove the grooves, but the metal is so hard and compressed it will not seal.
George Butz

Thanks for the input. The shoes seat fine. It's the pedal that feels "squishy"; ie, a bit soft. I tightened up the pedal box, which was loose, but still am not quite satisfied. I put the TD into it's winter storage- will rebleed the system in the Spring. Meanwhile, I'm driving my '60 MGA coupe. Nice and toasty in this 30-40 degree weather!

Ira
Ira Spector

Sorry I'm late to the party with this comment, but I agree with Reed--I also race a TD--an early '50, and we use the same kevlar-based linings on the front as Reed. They worked so well under race conditions that we eventually converted our street TD (also an early '50) to the same lining on all four corners!

Now it stops like you threw out an anchor!!!

Also agree on bleeding--

Jeff
Jeff Brown

Like Jeff, I'm late to this one, but for Jim the problem with the leak may be the same as I had for some time on my YB. Although I had carefully refaced all the brass banjos I eventually found that on two of them the bajo faces were not parallel. Since rectifying this I have not had a single leak from any of the banjos. Hope this helps.
Keith
Keith D Herkes

Ira, it is time your slowed down and enjoyed this beautiful countryside here in Bucks County. The slower you drive, the better the brakes! Use your "A" and "B" for the high speed stuff.
Gary
Gary King

This thread was discussed between 01/11/2001 and 29/11/2001

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.