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MG TD TF 1500 - Steering Wheel Removal

In anticipation of my new wood wheel from Gordon Lawson, I will be removing my old one. Seems to be two schools of thought. One, as per the WSM, is to remove the wheel and hub, and then remove the wheel, and the other to remove the wheel from the hub, whilst in the car. In either case, how does the little key on the upper part (not the one removed to remove the splined hub) come into play? The WSM just says to "take care of it." Does it protrude into a keyway in the hub, and if so what "care" is to be taken?

TIA

Larry
L Karpman

Use a good wheel puller...they are always pretty tight. The key stands proud of the shaft by about 3/16" or so and slides into a slot in the hub.
With a good wheel puller, you shouldn't have to 'hammer' the bottom of the hub (careful, it is cast aluminum).


gblawson(gordon)

Thanks Gordon, sounds easy enough (famous last words :-)

Cheers

Larry
L Karpman

Sorry Larry, it's not easy. That's basically because the OEM TD steering wheel has three spoke sections and the hub is tapered downward. Gordon's "good wheel puller" is one that I have yet to find for handling a TD steering wheel. But, Gordon is a man of many talents and tools. IMHO, the safest method to avoid damage from thumping against the bottom of the hub is to remove the wheel, hub and all, and then tap the splined shaft out of the hub. To remove the wheel you need to remove the clamp that clamps the wheel's in and out movement. Slide the chrome coiled cover to expose the woodruff key. Remove the key and slide steering wheel (with hub and shaft) out of the steering column. Note the order of the pieces when you do the disassembly, especially the distance tube. See the parts diagram on page 23 of Abingdon Spares' catalog for a reference. Bud
Bud Krueger

Larry, to remove the lower key from the short shaft, you insert a thin strip of metal under the key and lift it enough to remove it through the slot. It is exposed when you remove the clamp assembly and slide the wheel all the way out. (You will have to pull up the spring cover.)
You may have to remove the wheel and hub still attached to the short shaft, as the hubs are sometimes very tight on the taper.
You then can place the hub it over a couple of blocks of wood, or a partially open padded vise, with the shaft pointing down. Then after removing the nut, strike the top of the shaft using a block of wood or something to protect the threads.

Dallas
D C Congleton

Thanks Bud. I've removed the wheel and splined shaft many times, so that's the easy part :-) What did you use to support the wheel and hub to tap the shaft out? Also, which way do I tap the shaft out (from the front or from the rear)?

I used a small 3 leg puller to remove my water pump pulley. Would that not work?

Cheers

Larry
L Karpman

OK, looks like Dallas answered my questions.

Thanks all.

Larry
L Karpman

The problem with using your 3-leg puller is that the hub tapers toward the column end. The puller arms won't reach the flange.
Bud Krueger

you can also leave the nut on the shaft to protect the threads when you first start to thump it with a dead blow hammer. regards, tom
tom peterson

Now that the temps have dropped into the 90'sF, I can do some work in the garage. I've revived this thread, because all efforts to remove the steering wheel from the splined shaft have failed. The wheel and shaft are off the car and mounted in a padded vice. With the nut loose, and after soaking endlessly in penetrating fluid, rapping the nut with a heavy hammer won't budge the shaft downward. I have also tried a variety of pullers, but as Bud said, you can't make them fit. I'm pretty sure this wheel has been on the TD for 56 years without removal.

I'm fearful that prolonged hammering will damage something, so I'm looking for another method or, as a last resort, a used shaft to mount the new wheel. Any helpful advice will be appreciated.

Cheers

Larry
L Karpman

Steering wheel removal, very simple, take the 3 old ones that I have moved around with me for 35 years and put them in the dumpster. It left before I could change my mind, probably won't sleep tonight. Still have a trailer load of parts that I have to get rid of before winter. May take them to Lime Rock this weekend if anyone is interested, can't seem to throw these things away. Bob
R.AF. Robert Finucane

No help Bob, unless you have a good used splined steering shaft for sale :-)

Larry
L Karpman

Robert,

I know it's tough...

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

I've had good luck by sitting with knees bearing up against the bottom of the wheel and while pulling the top of the wheel with one arm, use a lead hammer against the shaft, nut being loosened a bit so as not to damage the threads. A good constant pressure and a few good taps and it comes loose. Good luck. Marv
Marvin Stuart

Thanks Marvin. That was the first method I tried with the wheel still on the car. Even with penetrant soaked in from front and back, I had no luck. Of course I don't have a lead hammer though.

I'm sure, at some point I'll get this off the hub, but I think it's a shame to let a beautiful Gordon Lawson produced wood rimmed wheel just sit in the house while I piddle with this. That's why acquiring a additional used splined shaft would be an option. At least I could have the new wheel mounted and in use, and piddle with this at my leasure, or sell it and the old wheel as a unit.

Thanks again

Larry
L Karpman

Take it to a shop with a bearing press. Make sure they have a bearing collar for the press. Should take about 5 minutes for them to set it up and 30 seconds to pop it off. When you put the new one on use some anti seize coating.

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Sounds like a good project for tomorrow. Thanks LaVerne.

Larry
L Karpman

Took the wheel and shaft to a place that does axles and driveshafts. They had the shaft pressed off in minutes. Now I can enjoy the wheel Gordon made for a long, long time :-) (image attached) Thanks to all for the suggestions.

Cheers

Larry


L Karpman

Larry, I have a good splined shaft you can have if you still need it. Bob
R.AF. Robert Finucane

Gordon,

How do I contact you

Jim
James Neel

Thanks Bob. No need now that the shaft was removed from the old wheel and is on the new wheel.

Cheers

Larry
L Karpman

Very nice.
LED DOWNEY

Larry...well done, looks great...have the little tabs for the ends of the spokes almost done and they should be able to be retrofitted.....

gblawson(gordon)

Shoot, I forgot about those Gordon. Looking forward to seeing them. As for the look, I didn't do squat! You did the beautiful job, and I "finally" got it mounted. Send a pic of the tabs on a wheel, when done.

Cheers

Larry
L Karpman

Easy job when you have the right tools eh Larry?
LED DOWNEY

and $5 cash to spend :-)

Larry
L Karpman

Gordon, what are the "little tabs for the end of the spokes"?? John
J OSTERGREN

The rim was clamped unto the spokes using a little steel sheet metal piece...this was stamped in place, then the wheel put in a mold and the plastic poured...
The end of the steel shows out at the wood rim (it looks ok in the photos but not so good in person)... I have found aluminum channel that has to be machined to fit over this little flange, then it can be polished like the rest of the aluminum pieces.
gblawson(gordon)

This thread was discussed between 04/07/2009 and 04/09/2009

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