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MG TD TF 1500 - Steering rack slack

My steering rack has recently developed a 'knocking'. On examination it seems that the rack on the left hand side is loose in the case.
Has anyone else come across this problem?

There is no backlash in the pinion teeth and the RH side is fine.

B&G tell me that this is a strange thing to happen but other than getting the LH side of the case sleeved, (and they say no one they know would want to attempt it) they cant suggest anything.

Can anyone tell me whether the rack might have worn, rather than the case? (I can get a new rack)

I also wonder whether, as this is a RH drive car,I could tap another damper pad into the housing on the left hand end, (there appears to be a moulding on the case)?

Like another member on here, unless this can be fixed or a replacement found, I appear to have a refurbished TD, re-built engine, recently re-sprayed whose only use would be a garage filler or spare parts.

There must be a solution to the lack of RHD steering racks? Does anyone needing one, want to join me in finding a foundry that will cast a few limited editions?
M Christie

My LHD TD has a knock when you turn the wheel back and forth (when stopped)- sounds like the same thing, except mine is on the right side. It has been that way since dad bought the car 30 years ago, with no ill effect. Just make sure the inner tie rod end is not loose from the rack bar. I think the housing must wear, as it looks like cast iron, rather than the steel rack bar.
George Butz

Thanks George. Next time you're under the car would you mind holding the steering rack at the end that knocks and giving me some idea of the 'feel' of the thing.

I've checked the tie rods and examined the inner ball joint, but all appears to be well, and in anycase I can't see how to tighten it without spliting the housing!

If this is just acceptable wear then i'll live with it, but I haven't driven the car for about a year until recently and I've just noticed this noise. Since we have a roadworthy test here (MOT), I wondered whether this wear might be unacceptable and the car might fail the test, although I have to say other than the 'up and down' knock, the steering is tight .

By the way just in case you ever feel like it, although you can take the rack out as detailed in the book, (I know 'cause I've just done it this evening) I have to say now that it's worth removing the bonnet and rad first!!

Thanks again for the reply.

Best wishes

Mike.
M Christie

Mike

I had the same problem with my LHD TD on the right side of the rack. I measured .007" wear in the vertical direction. My rack housing had a undrilled boss on the right side which I drilled and tapped for a 3/8" diameter fine thread. Made a 3/8" diameter brass disk to ride on the rack. Used a 3/8" bolt with a locknut and adjusted the bolt to take out the movement of the rack with respect to the housing without causing drag on the steering.
In my case the DPO had used grease in the rack and I suspect that lack of lubrication caused the wear. All has been well for 10000 miles.

Jan
Janson Hurd

Thanks Janson,

I suspect i will probably do as you did but I may well convert the boss to take a damper pad on a spring.

I must say I was a bit put out by Brown and Gammons' reaction to this problem. They really didn't consider any solution other than fitting a sleeve which they said they wouldn't do. Perhaps they've grown too fat and lazy on selling us expensive parts to consider tackling a difficult problem. Especially as this seems to be a problem shared by others.

Anyway thanks again for your comments.

M Christie

Mike

I found that lifting the front wheel under the front spring pan to maintain the steering rack to front wheel geometry and moving the tyre from the 3 and 9 o'clock positions resulted in the knock from the rack. The movement of the rack could be felt through the rubber bellows.
I considered adding the damper pad and spring as found on the other end of the rack but if the spring compresses the rack will still move in the vertical direction. The function of the damper pad and spring is to provide resistance to lateral movement of the rack not vertical. I agree that the best repair for this problem is to bush the rack housing but the alignment that would be required for smooth rack operation would be a difficult machining operation.

I believe removing the rack assembly from a LHD TD is not possible without removing the rad and bonnet as the front mounting plate of the engine gets in the way of the pinion shaft on the rack assembly.

Jan
Janson Hurd

Hi Janson,
Thanks for the reply.

I cannot make the rack 'slap' by moving the wheel, but can by wiggling the steering wheel.

I can see the point about the damper spring but wondered if the adjustment of the brass disc might be so critical over a such a short distance that adding a spring might help?

I've never taken the rack apart, is there anything that I need to worry about or need special tools for?

I think that the removal of the rad and bonnet makes things much easier, for instance the inner rear shocker bolt is a swine to get out with those items in place (this needs to be removed to take off the engine steady plate, as are the bolts and nuts of the rack itself.

Thanks again

Mike
M Christie

Mike

I adjust the clearance on the brass disk by supporting the front wheels under the spring pans to maintain the geometry and adjust the bolt using finger pressure until drag can be felt as the wheels are moved sid to side. Thwn release the bolt until the drag goes away and lock the bolt with the nut. The object is to reduce the rack movement until it cannot be felt in the steering. Without some fix, my rack would fail any inspection for loose steering. The bolt may have to be reset as the brass disk wears. You can reach the bolt with the car assembled. The spring would cause pressure on the brass disk and could result in heavy steering if it was strong enough to prevent movement of the rack or fail to reduce the movement if too light.

As for disassembly of the rack, the only problem that I had was the thrust washer (item 4 on page J2 of the Factory nmanual). The washer tended to catch on the pinion shaft, the rack or the housing as the pinion is being removed. I disassembled the rack twice and both times I broke the washer. No problem upon reassembly. Keep track of all shims and replace as required. I did not dismantle the ball housing (items 18, 19, 20. 21) as they were tight.

Good luck.

Jan
Janson Hurd

Thanks again for your time Jan.

I'll have a go at the rack this weekend I think.
If I may I'll come back to you if I have a problem.

Mike
M Christie

Mike
I have just been speaking to Mike Green from NTG in Ipswich and it appears that there is now a company making new RHD racks but they are quite expensive. He also gave me the impression that he had some used castings which may be useful and cheaper.
John
j c rathbone

I modified my rack by just by drilling and tapping to take a brass 3/8 inch BSF bolt & lock nut. This was over ten years ago and has only been adjusted 2 or 3 times since. It is easily adjusted in place on the TF. I adjust it with the track rods disconected so I can feel as it nips the rack.

Good luck
Ray
r lee

This thread was discussed between 07/06/2004 and 13/06/2004

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