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MG TD TF 1500 - Started it up & drove 80+ miles...

Hi All,

I'd like to thank everyone here who have contributed information on getting my new-to-me TD started up after 8 years of sitting in a garage...

Last time I attempted it, the carb-to-carb fuel hose completely separated inside the wire braids, spraying fuel everywhere. Today I replaced both (even though the other hose was replaced 8 years ago). It took a lot of torqing to get the fittings tight enough to not leak fuel (I didn't use any sealer).

The '52 TD started right up this time (it started pretty well 4 days ago). I drove it to the gas station, but it shimmied pretty badly even at only 25mph. I suspected that was from sitting on flat tires for 7-8 years.

I then drove it home 90 miles... The shimmy kept getting better, until it only did it at around 60mph. It was fine at 55mph, which was great on the secondary roads. I was pretty amazed that the only real problems I found were the brakes (the car pulled one way or another, so I'll need to work on those), and there was oil in the engine compartment, however the dipstick reading looked pretty good so it wasn't losing a lot, just spraying it over everything.

I'm sure I'll have a lot of other questions for people here, given that the dash is a homemade job with the only original switch being the on/off/lighting switch. I'll be replacing the dash sometime in the next 6-12 months, given time.

I do have a few observations. Most people's cars don't seem to have many of the "frills". This particular TD has a Smiths heater (round, sits under the dash with a couple of downward facing vents). It also has the gas tank sending unit which I see a few people have, and it also has turn signals. There is a small Lucas box which sits directly under the electric fuel pump in the engine bay; I suspect that this is the flasher assembly. I don't think this is where it would "normally" sit; any idea where it *should* be located? Also, I saw a turn signal switch in some book or on-line, which sat under the middle of the dash. Is this a simple switch, or is it a kind of timer switch so that it cancels the turn signal after a set amount of time or something?

The normal/bright light switch is a toggle on the home-made dash. Is this normally a foot-activated switch for this year, or is it associated with the horn switch? Which also brings up the horn switch; this is one I'll have to try and find, but Moss doesn't seem to have them for the '52 TD. Anyone know a possible source?

Again, thanks for all the help!
Scott
Scott

The heater was an aftermarket (however, Smiths is good...at least an English aftermarket...), If by "gas sending unit" you mean a green warning light on the dash?, they, i believe, all have them... no gas guage however), Depending on the chassis number, it may not have come with signals? Usually the switch was under the dash and was a "timer"...
My '53 has a foot high/low dipper switch mounted on the scuttle/firewall above the clutch. Think earlier had them on the horn button.
Keep an eye on ebay for much of the missing dash stuff (not cheap, but deals come up).
Read all the info on the following web site....

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/
gordon lawson - TD 27667

Turn signals from #TD22371
Horn button with dip switch to #TD18882

http://www.niagarabritishcarclub.org/mgtnumbers/numbers.html
gordon lawson - TD 27667

I am particularly interested in the "gas sending unit". We all have one that sends a 3-US-Gallon -or-less signal but if you have an actual full-to-empty gauge, let us know. E-Bay will eventually answer all your needs and some of these members are in that business and are very helpful. The turn signal apparatus (big rectangular box, small cylinder (2)) on mine is located on the inside of the firewall above the pedals but on some is mounted near the voltage regulator (messy). A restoration handbook is very handy, too. Look up the threads in the archive about new tires and get some. Dry rot is only one OBVIOUS problem. Loss of traction on old tires is a hidden DANGER.

John

PS. You are in the right place for getting help for every problem.
John Redman

If the tires were old bias plys, and flat for a few years, it is worth it to update... you will be amazed at the difference. I had almost brand new (but 26 years old) bias plys on mine and it was a horrible, dangerous ride... new radials and it was a new car.
gordon lawson - TD 27667

If you do not know when the connecting rod bolts were replaced (last engine overhaul with NEW rod bolts), i would keep a bank account titled; MG Engine replacement! After driving my car the first 1,000 miles, i rebuilt the engine finding that it was about to put a rod thru the block, no noise, good oil pressure, rod bolts streched, & ready to fail at any time. Len
Len Fanelli

Thanks for the info everyone. This has been very helpful.

The sender is only a low warning light like everyone elses. Sorry to cause any confusion.

The chassis is 19998. It sounds like the turn signals were added later. It appears that they used the OE relay box from later TD's, but placed it in a non-standard place under the fuel pump. I'll probably move that to inside the car. It would make access to the fuel pump filter much easier (don't have to always remove the turn signal relay box!).

I gather it originally had a floor dipping switch for the brights... There is no evidence that I've seen that a floor-mounted switch was ever there. I'll have to get into the footwell and check thoroughly to try and find any evidence of one. I guess that's yet another part/switch I'll have to track down when I replace the dash.

I'll definitely replace the bias-ply tires with radials, since the ones on the car have been on it since probably 1977, and most of that time the car was sitting on them while they were flat... I'm sure that the handling will markedly improve. Any quick recommendations for reasonable tires? (I'll also check the archives)

Now, if I could only find open-end Whitworth & BS wrenches at a local garage sale for $0.50 apiece...

Thanks again for all the help,
Scott
Scott

Scott, the 'floor mounted' dip switch is actually mounted on the side of the firewall. Look for three bolt holes in a triangular pattern at a height just above the pedals.
Bud Krueger

I see three bolt holes in a roughly triangle pattern, but they are used. It looks like at least two of them go through to the fuse block. Funny, but there really is no evidence that there was ever a dimmer switch in the pedal box area. I guess they must have removed it and repainted the area so no scratches or other evidence is visible.

Searching the archives, the Kumhos look like a really good tire choice, and the price is definitely right.

The car came with the two front side-curtain pieces, however they are somewhat different (one has a metal brace on the lower part; the other doesn't), and they don't really "fit" (they are missing snaps, or the snaps are only half in the right places). So I might just have to buy a new set of side curtains or find some good used ones since I don't have either of the rear pieces. I'm not too worried about those however; this car will be a nice weather only type of vehicle.

Scott
Scott

Oops, I forgot to ask... The TD comes with two horns. Mine are slightly different in tone, so that when you use the toggle on the dash, you get a two-tone honk.

Did the original horn push generate something like that, or were the horns matching in tone?

Thanks,
Scott
Scott

Scott, the two horns have different pitches, one is high and the other is low. I'll get an image of the dipper mounting bolt holes on 'the53' tomorrow so that you can see where they would be.
Bud Krueger

Scott, look at the last two images in http://www.ttalk.info/The53.htm
Bud Krueger

Thanks, Bud. Now I know what those holes are for. My car, being right-hand drive, doesn't use those mounting holes, but apparently they are drilled on all cars. I was wondering what kind of junk the previous owner had mounted on the firewall near the passenger's feet. My dip switch (TF) is mounted on the bottom of the battery box.
Mark B.

Bud, thanks for the pics. They were helpful.

The interesting thing is, my car doesn't have any of those holes in the firewall... According to the chassis #, the car should have them. Either the switchover from the horn dimmer to the floor wasn't exact down to certain chassis numbers, or somehow the firewall piece was replaced a LONG time ago (my dad bought the TD in 1977).

The car has another problem... Gasoline leaking from the jets. I checked the archives, and see that this is often caused by cork seals drying out. Someone mentioned that you could put oil in the jet hole and hopefully get them to re-seal that way. Does anyone know if he was meaning with the carb all together, e.g. with the carbs still assembled, lifting the needle up and dripping oil into the jet hole, and then keeping the jet up to let the oil soak in?

I've also seen people mention that the TD workshop manual has a good section on the SU carbs, however I couldn't find anyplace in the workshop manual I have which covers them much. It mentions how to tune them, but there isn't an expanded parts diagram which shows anything. Is there a better manual, or a section which I couldn't find? It is the workshop manual which came with the car, and is similar in look/feel to the one for my '68 midget.

Thanks again,
Scott
Scott Linn

Scott,

There is a rumor that there will be a dipper switch and a bracket going up for auction on e-bay soon, might be as soon as tonight.
Ron Boisvert

The original TD-TF factory manual has around 5 pages on the carbs. Moss/Abingdon spares catalogs and web site picts show exploded views. The New England T Register "The T series Handbook" has by far the best carb tuning section in my opinion, as well as the best large, exploded view of the jet assembly on pg. 129. Think you will have to change the seals.
George Butz

Can one still purchase "The T Series Handbook"? I tried through Moss, and they said that they don't carry it any more.

I was afraid I'd have to replace the seals... But, what can one expect after nearly 30 years of sitting getting dry. Are the ones through Moss acceptable, as long as I soak them for a few days in oil?

Thanks,
Scott
Scott Linn

Scott,

I bought my gasket sets through Abingdon Spares for a 53 that had been sitting ten years. You need two sets, one for each carb, # 9-105C, $16.80 each. You don't have to let the seals soak for days but rather a few minutes.

Hey, the rummors were right. The dipper switch bracket and switch are on e-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4560874822&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT & http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4560873746&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT
Ron Boisvert

Scott, you can try slathering some petroleum jelly around the jets and running them up and down a few times. Can't hurt, unless you have a fire. Be prepared.
Tom

For the book- try Abingdon Spares, or BritBooks, or the NEMGTR online site. George
George Butz

This thread was discussed between 03/07/2005 and 09/07/2005

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