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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Stabilizer Bar

Is there an alternative for the TD engine stabilizer bar or measurements for a home-made item? The retailers are asking $90 for one, which seems like a lot for what is essentially a turnbuckle with rubber washers on the ends.
Steve Simmons

Back in the day, I broke the original stabilizer, not realizing one end was left hand thread. Bars were back ordered. I used a screen door turnbuckle, worked fine. Considering the complexity of the stabilizer with LH and RH threads,, brazed on washers, two types of nuts, specialized washers and rubber bushings, I think they are cheap and under priced. George
George Butz III

Not BSF, but most hardware stores will have a left/right hand nut nearly identical to that used on the engine stabilizer. I would get some all thread, one of the left/right nut and a few washers and nuts.
Bruce Cunha

$90 (less than 3 tanks of gas) for original and not having the next own bad mouth you seems like a bargain.

Regards, Tom
tm peterson

Was it BSF? I assumed it would be UNF.

Considering that you can buy the same thing (but wrong size for TD) for other cars like Morris, etc, including both mounting brackets for about $25, it seems horribly overpriced to me.

I actually wonder why they used a turnbuckle at all. It could have been a solid rod with two locknuts on each end, plus the rubber bits. It would have been much cheaper and smaller yet accomplished the same thing. The turnbuckle is nicer of course.
Steve Simmons

Steve,

Some members of our MG club, some of whom are TF vintage racers, use a modified Volvo motor mount attached to each side of the engine bearer plate. The result is much better that the original MG engine control rod and bracket. The Volvo mounts control the engine at the each side, instead of only one side and a center mount.

Not exactly sure how it's done. I haven't seen the installation and don't have a photo, but I can get if you want.

Photo of the MG engine control rod and bracket that I installed on TF681 last April. Had to grind the edges of the bracket to clear the water pump and timing chain cover. The bracket is the weak point. Mine broke. I've seen other broken brackets. Not my favorite design or job on my TF.

Tom - I'm a purist, too. But the next owner of Steve's TD will be bad mouthing someone no matter which type of engine stabilizer is used.

He will either bad mouth the engineer who designed the control rod and bracket if he has to replace it, or he will bad mouth Steve for not being original. Either way, the atmosphere will need to absorb some "bad mouth" words!

Lonnie
TF681
TF7211



LM Cook

I believe that the Volvo mounts not only eliminate the control rod, but also eliminate the center mounted MG motor mount. They support and stabilize the engine.

I’ll try to measure a control rod tomorrow. Probably easier to buy the bracket than to make one unless you can figure out how to make it stronger.

Lonnie
TF681
TF7211
LM Cook

Hi Steve
I have a few used one at a much lower price. If you can hold off until Mid March when I get home from Texas. Just let me know.
Gary
763-226-5789
gl krukoski

I wondered why they changed from the pre-war way of doing it, with a sturdy front plate and a mount on each side. It's so much easier to install, and much more sturdy. After the TD/TF they went back to that with the MGA. I guess it was a failed experiment.

I have everything in place other than the bar, and the bracket on the water pump side. Probably easier to fabricate or source those parts than to change to the Volvo plate, even though it looks far superior. Maybe if I have to pull the engine then I'll consider that.

The next owner of this car will not be buying an original example. This is a survivor car that appears to have been a club racer back in the day. The work done was very nice, but no done with originality in mind. XPEG engine, MGA disc brakes, MGA rear axle, wire wheels, magneto ignition, twin fuel pumps, chronometric instruments, added gauges and warning lamps, oil cooler, period supercharger, headers, etc. It looks mostly stock from the outside other than the wire wheels and mesh grill.
Steve Simmons

Steve
I also have the water pump bracket along with the new rubber parts and washers.

Gary
gl krukoski

Thanks Gary. Unfortunately I'll be ready for these parts by next week. The engine is already running.
Steve Simmons

Steve, I thought I had an old one but couldn't dig it up. I totally agree that this design is not idea. Changing the rubber bushings or the assembly with the water pump pulley on is not fun. You didn't mention the brilliant idea of holding the rear of the tranny down with a fork/pin going through a thin and fragile cast iron web on the tailpiece. All in all horrible mounting system! George
George Butz III

The control rod has 5/16” BSF threads. Right hand threads on the chassis side. Left hand threads on the engine side. The union takes a 5/16WW spanner. LH and RH jam nuts. The cup washers and the domed rubber buffers are the same that are used on the fork on the gearbox rear mount. Castellated nut and split pin on each end. The bracket could be made with trial and error.

It is a flawed design that will take time and blood pressure meds to reproduce. At my age, I would have probably died before I could have fabricated them.

Personally, I would buy the complete control rod, nuts, bracket, cup washers, and buffers. They will arrive in two days and you can spend the rest of your time installing and reattaching the rad, water pump, and other items.

I’ll send measurements tonight after I finish some carb work.

Lonnie
TF681
TF7211



LM Cook

Thank you Lonnie, very helpful! Unless I stumble across a used original, I'll probably end up with something that resembles the factory part, but simplified and improved in the spirit of how the car has been set up by its previous owner. The only thing I refuse to do is use button head Allen bolts on everything like he did. Those are all going back to hex heads.
Steve Simmons

Would this Morris Minor part work?
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine-c14/ohv-engine-c16/engine-steady-bar-complete-original-type-p830276

Photo as installed on a Morris


John Quilter (TD8986)

Unfortunately they are too small. I have one on my Morris Minor and it's the first thing I measured! You can but the entire kit with mounting brackets, etc for $26. I suppose a coupling nut and a threaded rod for an extension could do the trick.
Steve Simmons

The stabilizer bar with nuts, washers, and rubbers from B&G in the UK is just under $40 without VAT, don't know the shipping charges though. PJ
PJ Jennings

This thread was discussed between 06/01/2024 and 08/01/2024

MG TD TF 1500 index

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