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MG TD TF 1500 - Remove Radiator

hi. i'm new to these cars; mine arrived in April. i'm looking for hints on removing the radiator; it seems overwhelming. i guess its those bottom bolts; i know about the braces from the fender and the long cross pieces that come up to hold it in. it just seems impossible to get to those two bolts under the radiator. surely someone has done something brilliant?????
thanks!
still trying to get this on the road!

Oliver in Dallas
dn dave

Oliver - I don't know if it qualifies as brilliant, but I just lay on my side under the front of the car and get an open end wrench on the nut and arm wrestle it off. Just be careful that the wrench doesn't slip off as you are doing it, as the frame rail is close enough to catch your thumb between it and the wrench, that by then is traveling at about 150 mph, necessitating a trip to the ER to have the thumb nail drilled to relieve the pressure and throbbing - don't ask. I guess that some people have managed to get at the nuts from between the bottom of the radiator surround and the top of the splash apron, using a wrench that is wrapped in a shop towel so as to not scratch the splash apron. Either way, it is easiest to do if you have a set of Whitworth wrenches - they fit the nuts much better than the closest size American or metric wrenches. If you have not been introduced to the wonder world of Whitworth, British Standard Fine and Nuffield Mad Metric, e-mail me at SUfuelpumps@donobi.net and I'll send you information on the system. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Oliver

I assume that you have the front bumper and front pan off the car. Once these are removed you can gain access to these two nuts from the front of the car. It will require that you use both hands to ensure that the wrench fits on the nut (well fingers anyway) but it is really not bad. Like they say, installation is just the reverse.

Brian
Brian Smith

Oliver, welcome to the BBS. You will get a bunch of help here, and sometimes you can find your answer by an archive search.

It is really hard to get at the double nutted bottom radiator bolts. Sometimes, it is worth it to unbolt the bumper and remove the front valance panel to gain access.

A thin whitworth 5/16 wrench will remove the nuts on the radiator mounts. The mounts consist of some large washers and rubber mounts which use a thin metal band to keep the mounts from squishing out of their location. If you raise the radiator up with shims as you undo the nuts you can keep the nuts in a handy area to maintain access.

I hope this helps,
dave
Dave Braun

Oliver: Great advice given already. Saturday evening (7PM) is our Texas MG register natter (Dinner and BS) at Keller's on E. Northwest Hwy. Come on over and meet everyone and perhaps join (or perhaps you are already a member?) A wealth of knowledge there on the TD.

I'm over east of you in the Mid-Cities. Where in Dallas are you? I'd be happy to help with your task, and go over the car with you if you'd like. Only day I can't help is Thursday of this week, otherwise I'm free almost any day. You can email me at lkarpman at tx dot rr dot com.

Welcome to this forum too! There is no better place for info on your car than here.

Cheers

Larry
L Karpman

Oops! meant "west" of you.

Larry
L Karpman

I find if someone reads me a novel while i'm doing it, it goes much faster.... a novel like 'War and Peace'...or 'The Source'!
gblawson(gordon)

Hi Oliver

One must check item when you remove the radiator is the bracket under the water pump where the engine anti roll stabilizer attaches. Replacement of this bracket with the radiator installed is near impossible. I found mine cracked last year when I removed the radiator to provide access for removal of the steering rack for rebuild. The Moss part no. for the $13 part is 411-040 (page 4 of the latest catalog).

Good Luck
Dick
Safety Fast
Richard McCutcheon

Dicks comment is a very good one !
I have been able to remove out radiator with out removing the pan or bumper,,,
Steve Wincze

You should be able to remove the radiator without pullin off the pan or the bumper, I have done it many times.I also do not put the bolts back on the bottom. the weight of the radiator and the headlight bars and the tension bars hold it down, along with the hood being latched. Know this is not kosher, but it works and I have seen the same thing with some of the real MG Gurus doing the same thing.
TRM Maine

I think we are all assuming that you have a TD and not a TF, right?
David werblow

Dick is right on. Besides checking the bracket, change the rubber donuts on the stabilzer bar, check the water pump for play or any problems, check the front engine mount, and of course replace the radiator hoses. All right in front of you and very easy to do with the rad out.
George Butz

This thread was discussed on 10/06/2009

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.