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MG TD TF 1500 - New TD owner; general questions

Hi All,

I've been a '68 midget owner for 29 years, and I recently came into ownership of a '52 TD.

The TD has been through a number of cycles of rejuvenation/storage over the last 26 years, with it mostly stored. It hasn't been run in about 8 years, sitting covered in a garage (running when parked).

I've talked with a number of people about how to get it started, like changing the oil, possibly filling up some oil port before attempting to start, hand cranking w/o plugs after putting a teaspoon of WD40 in each cylinder, etc. Also draining the fuel tank and flushing the fuel lines/carbs.

I'd be interested in hearing what people recommend regarding what should be done to get something like this going.

Also, is there a standard storage place in a TD for the hand crank? I haven't started poking around inside the car yet because it is still surrounded by boxes & stuff in the garage. I'll try to get the Chassis # next time I see it.

Sorry if I ask some stupid questions, however the TD seems somewhat different than my Midget, although some things like the carbs seem pretty similar. I'm not looking forward to getting familiar with the 4 different bolt thread/head combos on this thing...

Thanks,
Scott
Ocelot

I'll answer the crank storage question but will leave the starting issues to other more expert folks! There are (or should be) three clips on the back of the seat back that the crank handle snaps into.

Bryan
B Sieling

Scott - First things first, I don't know where in Oregon you live, but would highly recommend that you join Club T MG <http://home.earthlink.net/~clubtmg/> You will find a lot of T series owners who can give you a hand with your questions. You will even find that some are probably close enough to pop over and look at another TD to get some of your answers. I don't want to discourage you from posting questions here, but sometimes it is better to be able to look at another car to see how things are supposed to be.

Besides draining the fuel tank, I would suggest getting a strong light into it and take a critical look at the interior of the tank for any rust. You can also pull the outlet fitting from the tank, which has a filter screen on it (if it hasn't been removed by some PO) and look for rus particles on it. If you find any signs of rust, the tank should be thouroughly cleaned and then sealed, to stop further rusting.

See the thread "Wiggley Tachometer" for a link to my article on fan belt tension. Go to the link and read the article, then loosen the fan belt on your car and replace it with the proper on if necessary, it will save you having to get the generator repaired in the near future. For other articles that I have on the internet regarding various maintenance procedures go to the following links:
Brake light relays (also applicable to your Midget) http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/brakelightrelay/brakelightrelay.htm
http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/
Good luck - Dave
Ground point preparation http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/General%20Technical/grounding.htm
High pressure oiler http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/highpressureoiler/highpressureoiler.htm
Shock absorber fluid (also applicable to your Midget)
http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/ShockAbsorberFluid/shockabsorberfluid.htm
XPAG/XPEG engine fasteners
http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/fasteners/fasteners.htm
SU fuel pumps 101
http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/dd_su_fuel_pumps_101.htm
Finally a link to a site that will answer a lot of your questions before you even realize you needed an answer
David DuBois

If the car has been sitting, I would also strongly consider checking the brakes. If this vehicle does not have silicon fluid, I would be suprised if you did not find a brake cylinder that was froze.

You also want to make sure what type of brake fluid it has in it so you do not put the wrong type in it.
Bruce Cunha

Just got one on the road after 26 years in a barn... Main problems:
All wheel cylinders seized...and master cylinder. Had all rebuilt and replaced brake lines to make replacing fluid with silicon easier.
Tons of crud in fuel lines and tank... removed and had cleaned and sealed...blew out fuel line with air.
(changed non stock fuel pump to an S.U.)
Changed all fluids and primed oil pump (used a turkey baster through upper banjo bolt).
Had a stuck valve after sitting so long... gently tapped and pried it up.
Had to clean points to get spark going.....
Had a bad coil wire...repaired.
S.U. carbs had floats stuck...tons of crud in bowls.
Had a mechanic clean them (didn't need rebuilding)
Started after a couple seconds and idled at 800 rpm with 60 pounds oil pressure.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/gordonblawson/td/td.html
gordon lawson

Even if the tyres still hold air after 20+ yrs unused, I wouldn't be trusting them on any public road.
Will

YOU MIGHT CHECK THE LIFT PISTONS INSIDE THE CARBS TO MAKE SURE THEY MOVE UP AND DOWN FREELY AND CHECK THE OIL IN THE DASHPOT ON TOP OF THE PISTON , I USE ATF OIL IT'S JUST RIGHT . IF THE PISTONS ARE STUCK THE CAR MAY START BUT WILL RUN VERY LEAN AND COULD BURN A VALVE . tHE BEST WAY TO CHECK THE PISTON IS TO REMOVE THE ALUMINUM AIR MANIFOLD ( 4 NUTS ) THAT ARE NOT TO HARD TO GET AT . AFTER THAT TAKE A SMALL KNIFE OR SCREWDRIVER AND LIFT THE PISTON AND LET IT FALL IT SHOULD FALL WITH A SOFT CLICK , IF NOT FIND OUT WHY AND FIX IT . DO NOT MESS WITH THE LARGE NUTS WITH THE SPRINGS ON THEM UNDER THE CARB AS THEY HOLD THE JET IN PLACE AND CAN BE A BEAR TO GET RIGHT AND NOT LEAK.
THERE ARE TWO SCREWS ON EACH CARB THAT HOLD THE PISTON ASSY ON YOU CAN TAKE THEM OFF WITH OUT FEAR AS LONG AS YOU MARK THEM FRONT AND REAR AND THE PISTON ALSO . LIFT THE PISTON OUT AND LOOK AT THE BRASS TAPER PIN TO SEE IF IT IS WORN ON ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER IF IT IS WORN BADLY SO IS THE JET AND YOU MAY HAVE PROBLEMS GETTING IT TO RUN PROPERLY.
ALSO DO A COMPRESION TEST ON EACH CYLINDER . THEY SHOULD ALL BE VERY CLOSE . IF ONE IS REAL LOW SQUIRT LIGHT OIL IN THAT CYLINDER ( A SPOON FULL ) AND RETEST IF IT PUMPS UP YOU HAVE A BAD RING IF NOT YOU HAVE A BAD VALVE .
HAVE FUN.......
A.L. Gerstle

All of the suggestions are good, but there's more.

Get out the service and owner's manuals and do everything it says for the most complete service and maintainence and change ALL the fluids. (The steering rack may be hard to do, but you can get some of the oil out by unclamping one boot (or both) and turning the steering wheel repeatedly.) Then after the car is running and has been driven about 50 miles, change ALL the fluids again and filter. Those first few miles with hot running will loosen up alot of crud.

Blake
Bullwinkle

This thread was discussed between 23/12/2004 and 06/01/2005

MG TD TF 1500 index

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