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MG TD TF 1500 - MGTD Steering failure

MGTD Sudden seizure of the steering - seems like it could be the rack and pinnion which is the only bit I haven't checked as I can't get to all the nuts on the plate (any tips on how NOT to remove the wing or radiato?). My father cared for this car for me for 45 years and recently died so I am really inb trouble. I just went to take it out of the garage and the steering wheel would move. It seems to be well greased etc. Please help

Sylvie
S Sillince

Should be easy enough to fix Sylvie, when you say it seems to be well greased, what have you checked?
When was the last time it was driven? did it feel like hard work turning the steering wheel then?

Tatty ( Non-member since 2003 )
Tatty

Sylvie,

Exactly what have you checked ? Is the steering wheel locked solid or is it very stiff ?

I would get someone to attempt to turn the wheel whilst you look at the universal joint which connects the steering column to the long pinion shaft which exits the rack. If you can see the rubber bushes straining then the problem is 'lower down'. I would then look at the track rod ends to see if there is movement there. If there is then the problem is with the trunions behind the wheels. I would then jack up the car and do the above in reverse by trying to turn each wheel by hand. My suspicion is either one of the trunions has seized or the pinion shaft has seized in its bearing. I don't think the rack itself would seize in its housing unless you have hit something in the road and bent it - the car hasn't been jacked up against the rack housing has it?

If you can't diagose the fault from the above then disconnect the column uiversal joint (three bolts) and the track rod end tapers (slacken the nut and hit each side of the steeing arm with two hammers simultaneously to 'squash' the tapered hole through which the track rod end pin passes - with luck the taper will spring out - don't try to knock the pin out by banging the end of the thread). You will then be able to find which component has seized.

I think the rack comes out without major dismantling from underneath - there is a picture in the manual showing this. I'm certain you will get instructions from someone who has done the job.

Good luck


Jan T
Jan Targosz

Thank you both for your quick replies, Lasr driven about a month ago, the steering wasn't hard at all although I had commented that it felt different - not so positive. The steering was locked solid and is now very, very stiff indeed. Impossible to drive. I have to state at this point that it is my husband who tried to fix the steering - tho' I am not averse to getting my hands dirty!
He had done all that Jan T suggested and all that is OK although the offside track rod end is a bit worn. He next wanted to check the pinnion bearing but, if I have got it right, he found one bolt on the engine steadying bracket inaccessible and the thought of taking off the radiator or wing filled him with horror!
I think we are going to have to seek specialist help!
S Sillince

Plenty of people out there who can advise, where are you, and have you joined the Octagon Car club?

Tatty
Tatty

Between Gloucester and Ross on Wye. Member of the MGCC (since the 70's - haven't joined Octagon as yet. Thinking of sending it to specialist garage in Stroud
Thanks
Sylvie
S Sillince

Do not know of any companies near you but sure there must be.

No need to remove any wings or the radiator. the pinion can be removed from the front leaving the rack in place. It just needs the three rubber bushed bolts removing from the steering column, then it should be possible to move the steering column up from the coupling to allow the centre nut to be removed, then this coupling can be removed. The bottom of the pinion where it drives the rack is removed via a plate with two bolts at the front of the rack, then the state of the rack teeth and pinion teeth can be checked. Half hour job but a bit messy so have a drip tray ready for the oil if you can.

Tatty

My guess is that some previous owner many, many years ago lubricated the steering rack with grease instead of oil. This happened to me on a TF I acquired several years ago. I didn't drive the car very often and the rack literally seized because of "dried" grease. I jacked the front end up, cut the gaiters off, and squirted WD40 into the rack. Did this for a couple of days and finally was able to get the steering wheel moving a bit. Then just worked it back and forth while squirting in more WD40. Eventualy pulled the rack and sent it to a specialist for checkout and renovation. I wouldn't have thought that grease could dry out like that, but it obviously did.

Reed Yates
Reed Yates

Thank you all again. I'll follow up when we have some news, thanks for the tip Tatty. Not sure about the wrong grease - doubt my father, who was a specialist classic car mechanic, would have used the wrong stuff and he has looked after the car since the 60's. Mind you , his Alvis's were probably a bit more robust! However, useful tip to check out. Thanks.
S Sillince

Hi Sylvie, Have a word with John Beavon who lives in Hereford and cannot be far from where you live.tel.01432 851559 and tell him I sent you!.

He is very good with T Types and has owned and restored quite a few over the years, and I would certainly have a word before sending your car to a garage.

David Tinker. Wales UK.
David Tinker

It's definitely a fault in the rack and it has gone off to a garage (unfortunately before I found the latest mesage). We are short on time and wanted to go on the Wye Valley Run next weekend! Don't know yet whether repair is possible or whether we will need a new rack - it's about the only thing we didn't 'restore' in 1997! Is there a lesson to be learned here? It seems that if we need a new rack, the part itself will cost well over three times the original purchase price of the car!
S Sillince

This thread was discussed between 14/05/2003 and 17/05/2003

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