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MG TD TF 1500 - Making a TD Wiring Harness

There is a firm in the UK that sells the correct coloured wires and will then bind them up as per original once you have laid them out. The cost is quite low. I'm part way through this at the moment and am incorporating flashers and spot / fog lamps in my loom.


With the original TD loom there are a number of bullet connectors either joining straight wires or forming branches. I think these are a weak point and are susceptible to corrosion. I propose to join wires by soldering and covering with heat shrinkable sleaving before the loom is bound. They will thus be invisible. I'm told this is bad practice but what do you out there think.


OK it's not original but I am not averse to sensible mods and flashing indicators are not correct for my car anyway.


Jan T
J Targosz

Jan: I think your Scottish is showing :-)

I would suggest that you buy a wiring loom already made and add to it if needed. The vinyl ones are not that expensive and I think it would take longer for you to make one than if you went to McDonald's and worked part time for the money to pay for it.

As far as the bullet connectors go. They have worked reliably on my car for 50+ years. They will hold up. If you solder these together keep in mind that some of these connectors are there because you may need to remove an attached part for service or to make it easier to thread wires through tight spaces etc.

Spend your valuable time on something else. This ones not worth it in my opinion.

Chris
Chris Couper

Jan,
In part agrree with this being a "weak point".
Mine was weaker..(and butt ugly..pardon the pun) ..my PO had added lots of Napa multi colored "butt" connectors (crimped on with a rock?) then had his painter paint the whole mess.(very disturbing to the eye).
My cure was to cut the harness back (beond the paint)
then using soldier type lucas connectors (orginial type..they are brass & black covers), and re-wire all my lights and such using black "expanadble nylon wire mesh". The result is I have a very "neat" & "period looking" install however all my wire junctions are either under the bonnet or in the boot (out of the weather) and can still be disconnected for trouble shooting or pannel removale.
Let me know if you would like some pix and info on the "wire mesh"....and I will dig it up for you.
I also took the opertuninty to add some extra fusing and such to my set-up.
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Shewrad

David,

Totally in accord with what you are saying. Even saw the mesh advertised in the wiring supplier's catalogue but also noted their "original" braiding service so am going down that route. The bullets I was concerned about are, for example, those that join the two rear night lamps and the number plate lamp. I argue it's more sound to have a continuous piece of wire in vulnerable places.

Just one point does the rear harness cross the car along the tube that spans the chassis rails and does the fuel warning lamp wire "enter" from the RHS. Was looking at a car converted from LHD to RHD and the loom tacked to the underside of the wooden rail which form the bottom of the rear panel. My original loom is in shreads and is useless as a template.

A note for Chris - reason I am making the loom up is I want the flasher unit inside the car adjacent to the relay - both for origiality and so I can hear it ticking (I don't have a vac switch so must turn off manually)I've converted my Lotus Elan using a highly recommended technique to amplify the ticking sound - dangle the flasher unit in a Coke can. Had considered buying a cheapo vinyl bound loom, modifying the route of the wires and then getting it braided but its as easy to lay a new one out myself.


Jan T
Jan Targosz

Jan,
"soldering and covering with heat shrinkable sleaving"
The "problem" with that is that condensation can form at the junction unless you use epoxy filled shrink. This is why others are telling you "this is bad practice"....although we will all no doubt be dead by the time this becomes a big problem! Connections that are left to "breath" are actually less effected by the "morning dew" as they "sweat less"...(sounds like a country song there somewhere!) ;-O !!

" does the rear harness cross the car along the tube that spans the chassis rails and does the fuel warning lamp wire "enter" from the RHS"
That is the way my LHD was also...mine was just kind of "hanging" there...so maybe Chris (or someone else) can tell you what is "correct"....I put mine on using "saddle blocks & zip ties".

"dangle the flasher unit in a Coke can"
Why not a small "dc beeper" for this? I plan to add one of these this winter. (my "right turn" is "haunted" at the switch and just comes "on" sometimes...in bright sunlight it is hard to see)My plan is to add this with a hidden switch so it doesn't drive me nuts at night when I can clearly see it as well as the "Lucas eyes" on the front signals.

I have installed some older "period accesories" (hunting lamp/reversing lamp/fog-driving lamps..ect)the 50 year old wire on some of these was not in the best shape so the "mesh" was a better alternative to hide the new wire for me. I have been told by others they really like "the look" of this.
I have an advantage in that I have been wiring TV remote units for 30 years...so much of this I allready had colecting dust in my shop. AS for "mesh advertised in the wiring supplier's catalogue" I also have seen this advertized from "antique auto suppliers"...@ about 3 times the cost if purchased from an "electronics supply house"!
Cheers & Best of Luck,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

Jan: I have my switch and relay inside too since I have a 52 (pre turn signals). Use the 53 loom and just don't poke the wires through the firewall. You can keep everything behind the dash.

I use a small black toggle on the lower part of the dash just poking out of the dash undercover. You have to look to see it. Its not self cancelling but I can see the red dots on the parking lamps flashing so I don't need any dash indicator. I doubt you will hear the flasher as the road noise will cancel that even if it us up at your ear :-)

Chris
Chris Couper

This thread was discussed between 20/08/2003 and 21/08/2003

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