MG TD TF 1500 Heater instalation?? BBS discussion at MG-Cars.net

MG TD TF 1500 - Heater instalation??

I copied the installation of a fitting on the elbow below the thermostat like a TF. Some soldered 1/2" copper plumbing pipe got the hot water back to the firewall where rubber hose takes over. The the return is to an extra connection brazed to the radiator branch pipe. It will run you out of the cockpit on a cold day!

Jim Merz

Another photo.

Jim Merz

A third picture.

Jim Merz

I used the Ben supplied fitting and soldered some more 1/2" copper tube to both sides and then went throught the bulk head with heater hose. I don't remeber if I got the grommettes at NAPA or True Value. I put and inline valve, from a Toyota pickup I think (did get that from NAPA) inside the cockpit and operate the valve with a choke type pull under the dash on a toggle type mount that also holds the fan switch. I didn't think to much of running the heater hose over or around the exhaust manifold. It will melt the soles of your shoes. LaVerne

LED DOWNEY

another shot

LED DOWNEY

picture of the valve and hose coming through the bulk head

LED DOWNEY

Arrangement at the front end of the block

LED DOWNEY

switch and valve pull set up mounted on the back edge of the TF glove box

LED DOWNEY

Tom, As usual, you can expect to get a virtual plethora of ideas on this one, and I must admit that I am partial to the installation by Gord Lawson. Its neat and professional and shows a lot of thought. Best of all, it works well. However I would like to share mine with you. This article was printed in the TSO a few years back, and I know two others who have taken my principal and made similar installations, only neater still. The goals in my installation were a) to make it neat, and b) to capture some of the heat given off by the exhaust manifold. As a result, I have , what I consider to be the best possible heater arrangement in a TF. 1) I first blocked the by-pass on the right side of the water pump. In my case, I brazed it so it could be sweated-out later if the experiment didn't work. 2) The lower rad (cast iron) pipe was then modified by grinding a hole in the side, and soldering a 5/8" copper elbow, carefully pointing it to the point at which the exhaust header joins the cyl. head. 3) To capture the exhaist manifold heat, I took a straight piece of 5/8" copper pipe, long enough to pass entirely behind the exhaust manifold, flaring the ends slightly so as to accept a section of (rubber) hose. Note: this took two or three tries, as it is important that the copper pipe entirely stand off (not touch) the exhaust manifold by at least a ¼ inch, making sure that it extended about 7/8" on each side, beyond the outside of the manifold. The front end of this pipe was now (3) plumbed to the newly directed pipe from the water pump pipe. The short rubber hose at each end of this pipe, was carefully wrapped with asbestos lamp wick and wire wrapped to hold it. This served as insulation from the block and the manifold At the bulkhead side, by coincidence, the pipe under the exhaust manifold, emerged in an almost perfect position for the hole in the bulkhead (4). From this, a section of hose was plumbed directly to one side of the heater. The return from the heater emerged from the (same) hole in the firewall and made an abrupt turn 'towards the rear of the cyl. head. I used a Greenlee punch to make the appropriate hole(s) in the bulkhead/firewall. If you take time to examine the flow of this scheme, you'll come to the conclusion that water is simultaneously flowing into the cylinder head from the front and the back and that in theory, it will not work. After 50 years it continues to work well. Some pix attached. If anybody wants a copy of the article I sent to the TSO, which has more detail, drop me a note, and I'll send you a copy. Gord Clark Rockburn, Qué.

Gordon A. Clark

I thought you all would enjoy seeing some photos of two alum tubes I removed from my TF just last week. The previous owner had used alum - which was a bad idea as can bee seen. I think copper or steel would have been the better choice. I am trying to clean all of the contamination from the system now as the heater was blocked completely. I will post three photos. Jeff

J Delk

And another

J Delk

And one last one

J Delk

Return valve

colin stafford

Branch pipe

colin stafford

The TF 1500 water outlet (Thermostat housing) AEG 124 image is attached. Remove the brass plug and screw in the Ford heater valve.

Don Harmer

The Branch pipe also has the Brass plug for heater attachment. Note the correct original valve cover color, a grayish green, from leftover camoflage paint, not silver.

Don Harmer

Sometimes you have to replumb.

LED DOWNEY

I don't know ifvI could have change the block hose's without removing the side panel before, but I know I won't be able to now for sure.

LED DOWNEY

It was a Toyota valve from NAPA Geoffrey....Pick up I believe. Fairly cheap I believe and works very well. I put one in the TD as well.

MG LaVerne

This thread was discussed between 27/06/2008 and 24/10/2014

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