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MG TD TF 1500 - Fuel Tank, Doors, Wiper Motor Cable,etc

I am completing assembly of my 1954 MG TF but run into some unknown territory. I will appreciate help.
How cable from wiper motor routed? Should I install it over dash frame or under it? Dash frame has 2 rectangular cut offs on the side of the motor, may be it is for that cable?

How fuel tank bottom rubber pads attached. I don’t see any mounting holes ether on tank or frame. Is it glue?

How white felt install in the tool box? Should felt cover nuts and bolts that protruding into tool box or nuts will be over felt?

How doors rubber bumpers attached? Are they screwed or nailed or glued to the front wood door posts?

Thank you
Boris Gruzman
B Gruzman

hi Boris,
You & I are at about the same stage. I can help on a cupla your q's.
Fuel tank bottom pads weren't glued on mine, and the ones from Moss were a bit think I think. I suspect they should be bent into an L-shape to center the tank side-to-side, but they're too stiff. (Old ones were bent that way when they came off. There are tabs on the bottom of the tank to center it with the pads. They won't come out, the tank is cinched down tight on them.
I think the felt should be over any protrusions, no hole in mine when it was removed. My wife says she'll get some new, rather than trying to clean up the old.
Keep us posted on your progress, you can see mine at <http://www.boatanchors.org/mgtf.htm> I have more pix that aren't up there, hope they help me on the way back together.
Al
A W Parker

Boris, I am pretty sure the TF's are same as TD as far as the tank pads go so it should be split rivets; the widest part goes goes side to side not front to back. The door bumpers are attached with nails. The felt is something I have pondered myself. I believe some cover some not.

Regards,
Rich
Richard Taylor TD3983

Richard,

Thank you, unfortunately TF is a bit differed, there is no provision for split rivets. As for felt seems like prevailing opinion that it should go over nuts.

Boris
B Gruzman

Al,

Thank you for info. Your photos were very useful. It is become difficult to find good reference for TF specific stuff. I have hundreds of photos about my restoration venture and would be happy to share my experience but to that day can’t find good web site that let me upload all of them as batch and not one by one.

Al, could you possibly search your files or memory and check how wiper motor cable should be install.

Thank you
Boris Gruzman
B Gruzman

Few photo starting point


B Gruzman

Mid point


B Gruzman

Ivory top coat painting complete, now assembly starts ...


B Gruzman

Gday Boris.
1- I can see a pin head (I presume a split pin?) holding the rubber pad to the inside top flange of the chassis rail, so you should have a very small hole in that flange. Not to be confused with the two rubbers on the body tub which have a total of 6 split pins.
2- Felt covers nuts. Natural coloured felt is more appropriate than white felt.
3-Door rubbers have four nails each.
Above details are unrestored on my TF 1500.

Cheers,
Matthew.
Matthew Magilton

Hi Boris,
Your "midpoint" is beautiful. Nice detail work.
By cable, do you mean 12vdc or the activating cable to the wipers? I think the latter. I looked under my scuttle this PM, and see the "rectangular cut offs". I'm right at that same point, to install the wiper mechanisms, and I don't think the cable will easily go thru that cutout. I need some heavy rubber washers to mount the motor, hope to find some tomorrow. Then will see how things will go best. Will get back to you when I've had a good look.
I could make you space on a webpage, but not for hundreds of pix. Cupla dozen maybe, if you provide any captions, etc., that go with them. Shouldn't take me too much time away from "productive work" on the TF. I've not been told what my total space limit is, don't want to ask ;-).
Al
A W Parker

If you start a facebook account you can upload unlimited numbers of photos.....there are a couple of us on ....

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2332079&l=233c8f0c4b&id=544516110
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

Hi Boris,

I agree with Matthew - my TF 1500 has a split pin to hold fuel tank bottom rubbers. Hole is small - PO probably painted over it!

Matthew, I didn't know the body tub fuel tank rubbers were held by split pins! I'm sure you are right - what sort of diam., any washers?

Cheers

John
J C Mitchell

Hi Boris,
Here is a photo of the routing of the cable on my car, it has never been off the car so it should be correct, hope it is helpful.
Best,
James


J K Barter

Hi James,
I'll say thanks for that, too. I just mounted my wiper motor since you sent it, and routed the cable that way. Probably wouldn't have turned it that sharply if there was another way. Had to straight the "knob" shaft on the piece mounted up there.
Al
A W Parker

Thank you everybody,
Thank you for photo of wiper motor cable. Uploaded photos of how I did for mine (base on your photo). Also thank you for a tip on how to install fuel tank. You probably right and holes for split rivets in the frame were covered during powder coating of the frame. I will have to drill them. Do you any recommendation on size and position of rivets?

Thank you

Boris Gruzman



B Gruzman

This is what my frame look like in area of pads for tank. No holes or even hit of any just spot welding...

Boris


B Gruzman

Here is a pic of the head of what I presume is a split pin/split rivett on the lip of the chassis rail.

Cheers,
Matthew.


Matthew Magilton

My surface rust in glorious close up! One of the split pins on the rear body tub.
You will loose concourse points if the split is north-south and not east-west ;)

Cheers,
Matthew.


Matthew Magilton

Hi Matthew,

Thanks for detail on body tub fuel tank rubbers. The next time the tank is off I'll replace the existing nuts and bolts. Could be some time!

Cheers,

John
J C Mitchell

Thank you everybody, on gblawson(gordon- TD27667) recommendation I have uploaded my TF photos to facebook. It is available for everybody. (search for Boris Gruzman)

Matthew thank you for posting photos it helps a lot and I will take your advise and use split rivets on gas tank pads. But I am 99% confident that in my case (production date of my car was January 1954) there were none. May be they forgot maybe something else but now I am sure nothing was drill into frame. Maybe on early production they skip drilling or may be my car was assembled on Monday?...

Thank you

Boris Gruzman
B Gruzman

Boris, yes it is quite possible they changed the method of fixing the pads during production. Maybe they just used glue or something like that?

Cheers,
Matthew.
Matthew Magilton

Boris, where did you get all your nuts and bolts, they really look great. Are they Cad plated or stainless?

Rich
Richard Taylor TD3983

Rich,

Both I restore many but also used new. For restoration process I used Eastwood Tumbler first 24 hours rust cutting Media then 12hours Dry-Shine Media, then I send bolts and nuts for plating. Some bolts were beyond salvation. In places like sheet metal that didn't required tinsel strengths I used stainless. (SS is equivalent to about grade 2+ on tinsel strength, but for sheet metal it's not important).Other places grade cadmium plated grade 8.

Boris
B Gruzman

This thread was discussed between 02/11/2010 and 05/11/2010

MG TD TF 1500 index

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