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MG TD TF 1500 - Carbs leaking

Thinking I was going to be able to finally start the engine on the 1950 TD I'm restoring, I attached a fuel supply to the fuel pump and turned the key to activate the pump. Gas began leaking from the area around the bottom of the jet and jet adjusting nut. I ordered and installed new gaskets, washers, o-rings, etc. for the jet assembly, but still get leaks. If I pull out the choke cable the leak becomes a steady flow. Any thoughts?
Robert

When you fitted the new cork seal, the tube one, did you soak it in engine oil for a while before fitting? if this seal dries out or is new, it will be too small and will let fuel past.
Tatty

Robert - Contact Tom Bryant (tbryant@clinic.net) for some teflon 'O' rings for the jet seals in place of the cork seals. The teflon seals are vastly better and they don't dry out. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Robert, Until I learnt the trick of soaking the cork seals in oil, I used to have to change them every two years - they would dry out over the winter when I don't use the car, and fuel would seep out, accompanied by bad running and backfiring through the front carb. Now I keep a spare set permanently in soak - and I also keep the in-service set oiled over its winter lay off (I recently discovered that the TF SU H4s have brass plugs you can remove to oil the seals - I don't know if the H2s used on the TD have this). I haven't seen the Teflon seals - I would be interested to hear from other UK owners who may know from where these can be sourced, and how effective they are. AB
Adrian Bennett

Even dry seals shouldn't leak like that. Carefully recheck the assembly order or the jet bearings/cupped washers/springs, etc. Other things I have done to make major leaks: old cork washer still stuck in the upper or lower jet bearing; some rebuild kits (from Abingdon)had a washer (between the top jet bearing /carb body ?) too thick; a scored jet shaft.
George Butz

This thread was discussed on 07/02/2003

MG TD TF 1500 index

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