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MG TD TF 1500 - CARBS

Took the float bowl tops off and got a 3/8 inch dowel rod. The rear carb is the one that is gushing fuel and the front one is doing just fine. Took the rod and laid it across the tops as per the work shop manual and the carb that is NOT leaking is way out of tolerance and the one that is leaking is about right. Wonder what gives. I also cleaned out the bowls and blew air (mine not compressed) and both seem to seal just fine.
Could there have been some dirt in the jets and that would cause them not to seal and allow the rear bowl to over flow?
Thanks!
Mike R
Mike

Does the float float? Take it out and shake it and make sure no fluid in it. Otherwise, a tiny piece of grit will make the needle stick and fuel to continue to flow. I put an in-line fuel filter in many years ago to stop this problem
George Butz

Mike,

I think it's more likely that some mechanical bug is the cause, unless there's some really nasty crud getting past your fuel filter and float bowl filter screen and into the float needle seat.

Is this chronic or a one-time thing?

It sounds like the float/float lever system isn't working correctly.

Here are some things to try:

Make sure that when you make the measurement with the dowel, the long flat part of the float lever is roughly perpendicular to the float needle when it is seated (closed). The adjustment should be made by bending only the forked portion of the float lever.

Look at the surface of the float lever where it contacts the float needle. Is it so worn as to cause the lever and float needle to jam up (with the float needle open) under normal operation?

Check to see if the float has gasoline in it. If so, it will never rise to the correct height to push up on the float lever and close the float needle.

The float may be hanging up on the center rod. When you first turn on the ignition (and fuel pump), start tapping the "tickler pin" (if equipped) and/or the side of the float chamber to try to get the float to bounce around and free itself.

Hope this helps,
Greg







Greg Van Hook

Mike - The problem you are most likely having is that the float lever is dropping far enough when the float bowl is empty that it allows the needle inthe needle valve to drop and jam the lever so that it will not rise. This holds the float down and keeps the valve open. It is most likely to hapen after the car has been sitting idle for a period of time and the fuel evaporates out of the float bowl. The fix is to cut slots on the back of the flost lever to form a tab that can be bent down to limit the lever drop. I am sending you pictures and a write up on how to do this via e-mail. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Sat here and fiddled with the little forks and set them as prescribed in the shop manual. Noticed that one of them would hang up, it dropped down so far as to allow the little valve piece to fall out. I swapped them from one bowl top to the other and also took my little wooden dowel rod and bent ever so slightly on the back of the fork, on the tab between the two slots and that seemed to stop it from hanging up. I think in the near future will order new innards for the float bowls. I have bent and pushed on these pretty good. So far they are not leaking and the car idled very nicely.
Thanks to all for the advice and encouragement. I now have 50 percent of the MG fleet up and running and hope to have the MGA on the mend in a few days. Found a guy that lives just around the corner from me that rebuilds starters etc…
Mike R
Mike

This thread was discussed between 09/08/2004 and 10/08/2004

MG TD TF 1500 index

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