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MG TD TF 1500 - At the crossroads

I have the TF frame back from the powder coater now and have all the sheet metal down to bare metal. Found a lot of pitting at the joint between the front wings, running boards and the tub, and under the windshield posts and below the scuttle joint . Also considerable pitting on the inside of the rear wheel archs. Found the undersides of all the metal nice and smooth after removing the 50 year old under coating and paint. Never again will I do that. What a mess. The wood is all in good shape thankfully. Now comes the hard questions. Do I replace the metal or use a magic rust product and fill it back smooth? Figure I'm already going to have way more than what its worth in it before I get done so I would like to keep the cost down somewhere if possible. I have also been thinking about having the inside of the tub, doors, wings and running boards coated with the pickup bed liner material. Anybody out there done it? Any thoughts? Car was originally red but I'm thinking I would like to finish it in Brooklands green (late MGB).
So how many of you out there are going to snub me if I show up at a GOF with my rust proofed once red, green midget ?

Thanks,

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

I would simply expoxy primer the bare metal and fill the pits - assuming there aren't any pin holes thru the metal. I replaced the front and rear quarter panels - not an easy job and difficult to get the desired fit. IMHO leave well enough alone unless you need to replace the wood which I had to do.

As far as undercoating goes why not just use waxoyl (sp). It's worked well on my MGB.

Cheers,
Jim
Jim Budrow

LaVerne,

Is there still rust in the pits? If so, I would remove it first. Are you going to have the panels painted, or do you plan to DIY? If you have it done, the body shop can fill the pits during their prep work. If you want to do it yourself, there are good "hi-build" primers that do a great job. (Not rattle can primer.)

Basically, you primer the whole panel with several coats of hi-build. Then you cover the panel with a guide coat (usually just a mist of rattle can lacquer.) Then you sand until the guide coat is gone. The guide coat will allow you to see the low spots. As you sand the higher areas will be worn down until they are even with the filled low areas. Using a long sanding board helps the sandpaper float over the low spots.

It's hard work, and takes a while.

As far as coating the inside of the panels, I would recommend POR15 or zero-rust. I coated the underside of my fenders in 3M rocker guard during the paint process. It's under the finish coat and provides protection against stone damage. You can find it in most paint shops.

On the car's color, I would paint it the color you like the most. As long as it's a period color, I don't think anyone would complain. If they do, let them...

Let us know what you do!

Good luck, Evan

Evan Ford - TD 27621

Regarding truck bed spray lining.... i would be leary of applying something that heavy... I have seen stuff coated and it can get 1/4" thick.... Considering most of us don't drive in salty/snowy conditions, i would go with a good surface of paint and just keep it washed off.
gordon.b.lawson '53TD

Thanks for the thoughts. When I did my B about 8 years ago I went bare metal on it also. Replaced one rear fender, the rear valance and all sills (so much for the waxoil). Shot the inside of the sills with zinc weld before I welded them in. Did not want to find myself rebuilding things every few years so did the silicone fluid, stainless exauhst, and epoxy primer. Also shot the underside, inside of the front wings, rear wheal arches, and the cockpit floor board with the anti chip coating. Shot the body in a base coat/clear coat in my gravel drive way. Did the wet sand to get the glass finish and was very pleased with the results (have pictures if any one wants to see). The paint has held up very well but filler in the low spots have srunk. I didn't build it as a show car but a late friend of mine encouraged me to show it locally several times where it was the foriegn class winner several times. Even though its a nice 20 footer I am somewhat embarassed by my body work. I knew that the TF would provide many surprises when my wife let me drag it home. Car had been poorly rebuilt in the mid 70's, wrecked it 78, and neglected in a barn since then. The Bondo work was really quite good as now I find that after removing everything back to bare metal that nothing is straight except the gas tank. I had a local custom shop look at the car before I disasembled
it and he quoted me 10 grand to refinish the car if I disasembled it, striped it and reasembled it. Thought he was out of his gord. Now that its appart I had another painter look at it and he says about 8 grand. will dolly out all the metal. He wanted to section out the rust but I told him that I did not want to disasemble the tub and he couldn't weld there with wood timbers. I have seen his work and its damn good. But at 8 grand I don't know. I know I can do the work. But I don't know if I can get the finish I desire. I used the long board on the B until my arms felt like they would fall off. My brother in-law owns the local NAPA store (wish it had parts I need) and they are having a big tool sale this week. Thought about buying a DA, air long board, new paint gun, and a set of body tools but haven't decided whether to just use those funds for a pro job. Want the car to be perfect when I'm done but also want to drive the wheels off it till I can't drive it any more. This would be a lot easier if I won the lottery. If anybody wants to help I'll buy the beer.

Thanks

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

JaVerne,

As Jim says if there are no pin holes reuse the panels. Repro ones never fit as well as originals. I would strongly recommend you bed all the panels in modern poly eurethane automotive sealant when you f1t them over the wooden frame. I did this with my TD and the body is now rock solid,

Cheers


Jan T
J Targosz

This thread was discussed on 05/11/2004

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