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MG MGB Technical - Weber Carb Kit Question (choke)

Good morning, I want to purchase a "Weber Downdraft Carb Kit" with a "Peco Exhaust System" to replace the set-up on my 79 MGB with stock set-up. My question is the "Choke" should I use the electric or manual? How does the electric work, and how is this hooked-up? If I go with the manual, where do I run the cable... do I have to drill a hole in the dash...or how / where do you install? If it is easier to go with the electric please advise...plus any other suggestions /thoughts before I make the purchase (extra parts I may need??).

Looking forward to your responses!
Don in Penna
1979 mgb roadster
Donald Wheeler

Don. The electric choke is hooked to the wire going to the Z-S pre-heater, at least that was the set up when we purchased my daughter's car. Both she and I prefer the manual choke. Hence, when I set up my 79 and replaced the carb on her 77, I used the manual choke carbs. To get the choke cable through the firewall, I cut a small hole, using a leather punch, in the rounded edged, rectangular rubber plug that is in the firewall behind the master cylinders. To attach the choke ends to the dash, I used the current opening for the dash light rheostat. I simply cut the wires to the rheostat. Soldered them all together and used the hole in the dash as the opening for the choke. Either an MGB or a Triumph Spitfire choke work well for this application. The removal of rhe rhostat is commonly recommended as an aid to brighter dash lights. I have seen the rheostat removed and attached to the wiring harness with cable ties when someone did not to remove it physically. I have also seen an aluminum insert made that fight the upper right blanking plate on the dashboard, then the choke cable attached to the blanking plate. But, removal of the rheostat and using that hole is the easiest.

Parts. Both of my manual carbs came with all of the parts necessary, except the choke cable assembly. We used the round knob type rather than the T handle type. There is a problem with some of the throttle linkages hitting the choke cable attachment. Some of the throttle linkages are a segment of a circle with several holes drilled around the edge. This style normally hits the choke cable stabilzer which is bolted to the carb. Simply remove the single screw holding the choke stabilzer bracket to the carb body and bend the arm upwards a little bit, then check for fit. Bend the bracket upwards until it no longer hits the throttle cable attachement, then put everything back together. Not difficult, but I just saw one where the owner was afraid to bend it and there were problems. His mechanic and I bent the bracket arm upwards and solved the problem. Les
Les Bengtson

Don: I have an electric choke Weber. As Les says, hookup is very simple-just plug the Zenith wire onto the Weber spade choke connection. Mine still works perfectly after 5 years. Push the throttle to the floor once and release then crank it and get a perfect idle. If you order your kit from Bob at Brit-tek it will be complete and he will advise you during set-up. One hint is to coat the throttle cable with powdered graphite before installation to insure smooth operation within the cable sheath.
You will be impressed with the increased power and revs the Weber set up provides. Consider a Piper BP270 next time you replace the camshaft as it works very well with the Weber and gives another good boost in performance.
Terry

Never had much luck with the choke on these carbs. Or for that matter, much use. Pump the pedal a few times and she starts right up. Give it a minute or two and she drives fine. I know of three others with the carbs and they all feel the choke is a Non issue. The carbs are great.

I am still waiting to hear from someone who runs the 38 Webers with the simultaneous opening throttles. Seem like this is what I would be getting if I were to do the downdraft thing.

Pete
Pete

Thanks for the replies! I like the idea Les about using the spot from the rheostat. Also, thanks about the tips for the cables.

I'll probably go with the manual choke when I do the conversion... but I've only researched parts/prices from Moss and VB, Terry where's Brit-tec? Do they have a web site or magazine?

Don
Donald Wheeler

Don: Brit-Tek is in New Hampshire. The website is www.brittek.com Ask for a catalog-lots of good info in it.
Terry

http://www.planetperformance.com/vehicle.search/?productID=595469 Don't forget to get a air plenum for the DGV change over.
CJD Dark

I just did a Weber 38/38 from Bob at Brittek. Excellent choice with the Peco/Eurospec Dizzy etc.......money VERY well spent. The 38 has an electric choke...just hook up the old wire as stated above....my 77B tears down the road and makes a lovely roar doing so. My 02c....spend the extra $60.00 only for the 38/38...it's a nice carb.
Pete
77B
P J KELLY

This thread was discussed between 01/11/2003 and 03/11/2003

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