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MG MGB Technical - Using the 'Ez' Bleeding method

Happy October... nice outside for an MGB... but I have a question??

I need to do a "little" work on the 1979 mgb roadster... adjusting and bleeding the brakes. I've already received information on how to adjust and bleed the brakes. (Also have the Haynes manual for reference). My question is how well does the EZ bleeder system work that I see advertized in Moss and Victoria British?

The idea of being able to do this myself is what attracts me to doing it this way.

Your thoughts and comments??

Thanks, Don
Donald Wheeler

I've got one and have used it to bleed both the cluch and the brakes.

When I rebuilt both systems, I used it to reverse bleed them. it worked great

For the bi-annual cleaning, I use it with the included caps and it worked well.

Problems:
1. Regulating the air. They recommend using the air in your tire. I changed mine to let it use my air compressor. I have a better regulation capability. I set mine at 5-10 PSI vs the 20 from a tire.

2. You must ensure you do not empty the bottle. Or you might put air in the system and your bleeding to date will be worthelss; you will have to start again.

3. Reverse bleeding requires attention to the master cylinders to ensure they do not overflow and ruin your paint.

Even though one person can do the work. I've always had my lovely assistant there to warn me of overflow of the cylinders or that the bottle was getting low.

Cris
Cris DeYoung

Used it lots and in my opinion worth every penny!
P I Barnes

Chri and PI Barnes,

Thanks for the feedback! The brake pads and shoes look fine, no leaks, etc.

Just need to bleed the brakes and wanted to know from someone else. I'll put the order in pronto.

Happy Motoring!
Don
1979 MGB
Donald Wheeler

I've used one too, and it was fine. If you are going to use the tyre, let the pressure down to below 10 psi for best effect.

Mike
Mike Howlett

I used it too but needed to use the manual 'hard pressure on pedal/sudden bleed valve opening' method to clear residual air from the front calipers effectively. I found Eezibleed to be an excellent way to find leaks in a new (ie dry) refurbed system using a paintbrush and soapy water at joints and couplings. It showed up about 4 leaks for me which would have been messy after putting fluid in.

Noble M.
N. Macpherson

A while back on this board a few people were talking about Speed Bleeders. They sounded interesting so I ordered a set for my '74. I have to say that these things are fantastic! I used them twice, BY MYSELF and had absolutely no problem bleeding the brakes without a trace of air in the lines.

First time was when I replaced the rotors and pads along with new SS lines. Of course this caused the master cylinder to fail three weeks later so I purged the hydraulics again.

It took me exactly 25 minutes to bleed all four wheels (including putting the car on and off jackstands) and as I said, it went perfectly, (again, I did this alone so you don't have to bribe the wife to pump the pedal...that alone is worth $35!) Just use a clear tube that dumps into a clear jar so you can see the bubbles just like the usual "open/close" method. I can't say enough great stuff about these little things.

A set cost about $35 and it was some of the best money I've spent on this car. The only thing to be careful of is not over torquing them when tightening. They include some information warning you about this, so be careful if you decide to buy them.

Here's the link: www.speedbleeder.com

I'm interested to hear if anyone else has had such a great experience with these things. And no, I don't work there!

One more tip that worked well for me. I saved one of those plastic mustard bottles with the twist cap, rinsed it out real well and used it to pour the new fluid into the reservoir. It works great, no drips or spills and provides an easy to control pour. Way better than trying to guide an open bottle in that tight space.

Cheers,
Tony
Tony Grasso

Thanks all for the additional feedback about the EX bleeder method.

Tony... the "Speedbleeder" that you mentioned, did you buy that at a local auto store (like Auto Zone), or are you talking about the same one advertized in Moss, Victoria British, etc.?? The cost you mentioned is about $35 vs. the cost from these places $65 +...

Again, thanks for the additional tip, using the mustard sqeeze bottle.

Regards,
Don 1979 MGB
Donald Wheeler

I read above of the use of soapy water to check for hydraulic system leaks in a new system and must say that this appals me. The thought of putting anything other than an approved fluid in a safety critical hydraulic system is just not on. Why on earth not use either the normal mineral or silicon fluid as at the end of the day it's not a huge deal to put a jar under a joint and catch escaping fluid. Now in theory the actual water would be flushed out by the system fluid but you cannot absolutely guarantee this. In any event soap leaves a residue which encourages corrosion. Please don't do this.
Iain MacKintosh

Iain, I believe what Noble is talking about has nothing to do with putting soapy water INTO the system. It seems he used a method normally used to find leaks in natural gas lines when doing a new installation. I believe he used the EZ-Bleed to put air pressure in the system, and then painted the OUTSIDE of the joints with the soapy water. Anywhere he had bubbles showed an air leak. Since he had pressure in the system, no soap would get back into the system as long as he tightened each joint before releasing the pressure.

John
John English

Aye, you could be right John, sincere apologies to Noble. We should all be very aware of the critical nature of this single line hydraulic system. Noble's idea is fine but for me I just fill it up, get an assistant to press the pedal hard and check the system for leaks end to end. If you have made all the flares well there won't be a problem.
Iain MacKintosh

Donald,

If you haven't yet spent the money on speedbleeders, first try it without. I find if I put a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder screw and immerse the other end in a jar of fluid, gravity alone is enough to keep the fluid from backing up into the cylinder when I let off the pedal. (I let it up slowly - about two seconds from floor to completely released.) I've flushed and bled the brakes in my MGB without an assistant several times using this method. I may just be lucky, but it's worth a try before you spend $35 or $65.
Matt Kulka

Hey Matt,

If I understand your correctly, I could put a hose on the bleeder, place the other end of the hose in a jar with "new" fluid. Open up the bleeder, push down on the pedal, let up "slowly" (about 2 seconds) then do it again or close the bleeder...

All by myself, with out the expense of the EZ-bleeder cost. And the brakes bleeding process could be that easy?

Please let me know if this is correct, because if it is... then I know what my weekend project will be!

Looking forward to your response.

Don
1979 MGB
Donald Wheeler

If you let up slowly you will draw fluid from the jar back into the braking system if you leave the bleeder open. No big deal (although it isn't ideal) but it will also allow bubbles that didn't escape from the bleed nipple in the down-stroke to be drawn back further into the system. These may eventually escape after a lot of pumping and refilling of the master cylinder, or they may not. Lifting up rapidly will allow fluid from the reservoir past the seal on the master piston instead of pulling fluid back from the jar. An EeziBleed allows for a constant flow of fluid and air bubbles through and out of the system and minimal wasted fluid. However even then I find that on both my cars I still have a low initial pedal that pumps up, only to sink again, until I get my beautiful assistant to stand on the pedal while I rapidly open and close each caliper nipple in turn. This cycle of high pressure and then very rapid flow seems to pick up air bubbles that are sticking to the walls and blast them out to give me a hard pedal.
Paul Hunt 2

Donald, your description is correct. Only unscrew the bleeder just enough for fluid to flow. Otherwise you can get air bubbles in through the threads.

As Paul notes, this doesn't seem to work for everyone.

One day I bought a "one man bleeding kit" from an auto parts store, and it was nothing but a plastic cup with a hook and a tube built into the lid which ran to the bottom of the cup - keeping the output line from the bleeding screw immersed in fluid. No valve! Having nothing to lose but a little brake fluid, I returned the kit and recreated it with a bit of clear tubing, glass jar and some wire.

I must have been quite a sight with the car on stands and me pressing on the pedal while hanging out the drivers door with my head below the car to watch the bubbles in the tubing. But to my surprise and delight, the bubbles moved down the tube and not back up. I ended up with a nice firm pedal.

Now it may be that the return valve in my master cylinder is a little softer, or some other circumstance peculiar to my car. That's why I suggest you try it, but I don't guarantee it's the best method. I just know it's worked for me.

Best of luck,

Matt
Matt Kulka

Donald,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I bought my Speedbleeders direct from the company. As I recall, I called them at the number listed on the website and placed the order with a credit card. They knew the exact part numbers for the MGB and the parts showed up about three days later.

I'm pretty sure it was about $35, not much more than that. I'll say it again, these things work great!
Tony Grasso

Having just rebuild my entire brake and clutch system, thought I would add in how I bleed the brakes.

Some years ago I purchased a hand vacuum pump brake bleeder. Think they run around $35. Unit has a hand squeeze pump and a small bottle with a hose that goes to the bleeder.

This system works very well to pull the fluid throught the system. It works well at getting rid of air bubbles, but has a few things to watch for.

You have to assure you don't empty the master cylinder and you have to have a good seal between the hose and the brake bleeder.
Bruce Cunha

This thread was discussed between 01/10/2005 and 12/10/2005

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