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MG MGB Technical - Suspension Principle Refresher Needed

With all the little things cluttering my mind, I appear to have lost the quick connect for diagnosing my possible suspension problems.

This is for my 80B w/22,000 miles on it. The car is essentially like new in many ways, but I'm slowly replacing rubber parts like hoses, plug wires, wipers, brake hoses, etc.

I am hitting a wall on figuring out what to do to soften the ride. On smooth roads all is basically fine. But hit rough back roads or pot holes and one would think I'm driving a ridged short wheel base truck.

The B bangs in to holes, bounces to the side when hitting bigger road imperfections and in general road conditions are radiated to the steering wheel with harsh effects.

The car is fine if the road is fine and no suspension demands are being made. I've done the usual bounce the corners of the car test and it feels fine and springs back in one bounce.

I have not checked the type of oil in the shock reservoirs, but they don't look like leakers.

I am wondering how much effect old and possibly dried bushings and rubber suspension parts may have on all this? I've never done a full suspension rubber part replacement project. I've done A arm replacements and noticed improvements, but never taken on replacing everything rubber. How big of a job is this and would there be a marked improvement to the above problems?

Thanks.
R.W Anderson

big effect, the bushes are often forgotten over the more sexy damper and springs replacement

also consider if all components are fitted correctly

and the great effect old and little used tyres can make on the braking, steering, suspension, road holding and ride comfort and noise - see the DoT codes about halfway down this page - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

the low mileage can often work against a car, lack of regular use does not improve a car generally and can lead to more issues than a higher mileage more regularly used car, parts and components are not kept moving enough to keep them in best condition

also consider what tyre pressure you run at and if the tyres are oversized and much lower profile perhaps on bigger wheels
Nigel Atkins

First of all they are Cart springs, not the most forgiving.
Second, if they are corroded, the interleaf friction will be quite high, making them effectively stiffer. Similarly if the shackle pins are corroded in the bushes,
Third, if you still have lever arms, you don't know what oil a P O put in them, I've known then filled with gear oil. Flush them out and fill with SEA 20 M/cycle fork oil. There again there may be no oil. They're not called dampers for nothing.
Fourth, I take it you have checked that the springs haven't collapsed/sagged/broken, and you are riding close to, or on the bump stops.
Allan Reeling

This thread was discussed on 23/06/2014

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