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MG MGB Technical - Steering Wheel Again

To all of you who helped me in geeting the steering wheel off my 1979 MGB thanks very much. Your help was great.

Now, I have changed the turn signal and I want to put the wheel back on. I have two questions:

1. Where do you get anti-seizing compound? I never want to have to go through the effort of getting it back off again and I understand that if you use this compound it will be easy the next time. Where do you get it and what is it called?

2. How do you align the wheel for installation? Do you center the actual road wheels and then place the steering wheel on so that it is straight, or is there a more scientific way of doing it?

Thanks,

Scot Stern
SS Stern

Dear Scot. Very good questions. I wish I had very good answers.

On the Anti-Seize, you should be able to find it at any auto parts store. The Brits recommend a product called Copper Eze (or something to that effect). This is a copper based compound which I have not found in the US. However, my local BAP (British Auto Parts--back in the old days) store had a German version which works quite well. Here in the US, most of the anti-seize compounds seem to be aluminum based rather than copper based. I am currently using an eight ounce bottle from NAPA, but the same product is also available at a number of other retailers. Having used both types of products, I do not have any preference as to whether copper based or aluminum based is better. Both seem to work well and I would recommend you use what is available.

Installing the steering wheel is, always for me, something of an adventure. There are two components--the alignment of the steering wheel and the turn signal self cancelling device.

The steering wheel self cancelling device is a plastic piece with two notches in it. The forward facing "arms" of the steering wheel fit into it. Test the orientation by turning on the left blinker, turning the plastic piece 90 degrees left, then back to center. The turn signal should shut off. Then, do the same thing to the right. When this piece is centralized, a 90 degree turn, to either side, should cancel the turn signal to that side. Seems very simple does it not? But, I have screwed it up in the past. Thus, check it to make sure that is is working correctly.

Centering the steering wheel is, for me, always an adventure. I set the plastic self cancelling device so that the openings are ta 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock and install the steering wheel. If the wheels were correctly pointed--dead straight ahead, the steering wheel whould install properly. I have never been able to get it exactly right the first time. A trip "around the block" will point out if it is slightly off center. If so, remove and orient it more towards where it should be, then make another trip around the block. After a couple of trips, and adjustments, you will have it dialed in very closely. Absolutely perfect alignment seems to be only possible when a front end alignment is done with the intention of aligning the steering wheel perfectly. A complex matter. Most of us live with a steering wheel which is, very slighly, off the true center.

Hope this has helped.

Les
Les Bengtson

Les' round the block technique is the only way. Just put your steering wheel on lightly. Don't do it up really tight, finger tight only, even 'firm' can be hard to get off again. Safe enough for a test drive and obviously the wheel will not come off as long as the nut is on the column. If I 've lost the orrigional mark it usually take me about two or three goes to get it right. Then do it up tight when you're sure. You can also 'fine tune' by loosening the locking nuts and adjusting the steering arms on the rack one turn at a time. You have to undo the clamps on the ends of those concertina rubber boots on the steering rack or you will tear them. Just take care that if you shorten one side (ie three turns) you lengthen the other side the same, or you will lose your alighnment and have to pay a professional to realign (which is no big deal but if you drive around missalighned you will wear out your front tyres pretty quick). Make alighnment marks (last time I used white correcting fluid)and Keep careful count.
There is a limit to how much you can "unscrew" of course. Fine adjustment only.
On that subject, if you do damage your undoubly old and fragile steering rack boot them you can put on a new one by unscrewing the steering arm completly. This is much easier and less risky than prizing apart the ball joint I think. Just count the turns so you can do it up to the same spot again. It's been a while but i seem to recollect there was at least an inch of thread inside.
Peter

Scot,
some garaphide powder or an old pencil used on the surfaces of the contact area will do a good job.
do not use oil or grease there, as it will become locked and 'glue' the connection.
Ralph
Ralph

Whilst early columns had a cancelling peg screwed into the column and so the cancelling action was only 'correct' with the column in one orientation, from the early 70s it was a cam clip that can be slid round the column to the correct position. The former relies upon the correct assembly of the two shafts and the steering UJ, plus the attaching of the wheel, plus the adjustment of both track-rod ends for the wheel to be in the correct position in the straight-ahead position. With the latter the track-rod ends should be adjusted to give equal steering angles each side, but other than that the UJ and shafts can be assembled any old how, then the cancelling cam and wheel adjusted to suit. On both my cars the rack shaft only has a notch cut into it to accept the bolt so the UJ can only fit in one position, the column shaft has a groove all the way round so the UJ can fit in multiple positions. If you pull the rack shaft out of the UJ it will always go back in the correct position. However some have reported that both shafts have grooves all the way round.
Paul Hunt 2

Scot, anti-sieze lubricants are generally available from local auto parts stores. If you want larger quantities, McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ carries a variety of different formulations for different applications. A lot of the guys running wire wheels like the aluminum based product as the color is not as noticable if it leaks out of the spoke holes in the hub. Really cheap insurance against having a steering wheel freeze to the shaft or a wire wheel stuck on the splines. I've used in on all my phillips or posi-drive screws as these heads strip so easily.
Bill Young

SCOTT

NAPA sells a permatex copper antiseize in a tube. The copper head gasket spray also lists itself as good for bolts for antiseize
Bruce Cunha

Paul's information is as usual spot on, however I believe that there might be just one more point in that when you assemble the inner column into the steering coupling you must also consider the orientation of the slot in the inner and into which the steering lock plunger fits. Assuming that you have assembled everything in the straight ahead position as suggested, it would be normal to have to turn the steering wheel about 45 degrees to the left before the lock clicks in and I would suggest that you consider this as you insert the columm. Probably the resaon for this is to ensure that if the car is parked and the handbrake not properly applied it will come to rest gently against the kerb. I would imagine that the opposite applies in the US. Having done this and with the wheels still straight ahead you can fit the switch cam, switch and steering wheel. A round the block test then is the only way.
Iain MacKintosh

I have been using Neverseez as the Anti-Seize compound of choice for the past 30+ years. Back in the 60's it was used on offshore oil platforms on their large bolts below the surface. One I saw taken apart after many years of immersion that was completely rust free in the thread section between the nut and bolt. Has worked well for me in all applications including my MGs. Material includes both nickel and graphite in a grease base.

FWIW

Larry
Larry Hallanger

This thread was discussed between 23/02/2006 and 24/02/2006

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