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MG MGB Technical - Replacing Fuel Pump

How does one effectively change the fuel pump without all the gas coming out? Or is that just part of the deal?

Without emptying the tank preferably as I have no way of doing that.

Cheers!
-Jason
1970 mgb roadster
Jason Coolbaugh

To replace the pump, wait until the tank
reaches 1/4 full or so. Then jack up the
right hand side of the rear axle only. No way
gas will come out of the tank then.

When disconnecting the fuel pump hoses, let
them drain into a small gas can, but there will
only be a pint or so at most.
Ronald

Unless you have metal lines (which, I'm guessing you shouldn't) you could clamp off the rubber hoses. When I replaced my fuel pump, I used a Fisher Scientific hose clamp (for gaseous feeds) but I don't see why you couldn't use something conventual like a C clamp or a set of vice grips. Worked fine for me. If you do use something like vice grips that have a rather jagged edge to them, use something like asbestos gloves (for welding) or some other sturdy material to keep from damaging the rubber. Good luck.
On a similar note, when I put my fuel pump in, I have a late model Chevy fuel filter that screws into the threads of the pump hopefully protecting it from junk from the gas. I've also got a filter ahead of the carburetors. I don't know if this affects flow in any way, but I guess we'll find out eventually. It's definitely something to consider trying.
I hope this helps
eric.
Eric King

Jason. It depends on how full the fuel tank is and whether your current pump is completely dead. Sometimes, you can jar them into life, for a while, by tapping the body of the pump to unstick the points. If this is the case, a length of fuel hose, running from the engine compartment to a gas can, can be used to pump out much of the fuel in the tank. Disconnect the power input to the coil, switch on the ignition switch and pump away. When the tank is relatively empty, you can jack up the right side of the car, install jack stands, and most of the gas in the tank will be moved to the left hand of the tank, allowing much work to be done without spillage. The idea of clamping off the input line to the fuel pump, from the tank, is a good one and will work well if the hoses do not need replacing. Normally, when I have had to replace a fuel pump, the hoses have also been in poor condition. They should be replaced about every three years. Les
Les Bengtson

I've found a wooden golf tee works good to plug fuel line. Not very scientific, but it's the right size, doesn't crimp the hose, and goes in quick. Plus, the prior owner had several lying about in the trunk. I'm not sure if he was a golfer, or not.
Steve

Jacking up the right rear corner works for changing the sender but the pickup is lower than that. UK cars with the vented fuel cap develop a slight vacuum because of a spring-loaded valve in the cap, and changing the pump on the roadside with the car on all four wheel and pointing slightly *up*hill leaked no fuel after an initial dribble. On another occasion in the garage and not having run for a while, with the rear jacked right up, it pissed out all the time. That slight running vacuum seems enough to stop it siphoning out. On a US car with sealed cap and emissions hose to the tank crimp the hose and run the engine for a while.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 22/02/2003 and 23/02/2003

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