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MG MGB Technical - Replace Dash

I have a 75 B in which the dash is cracked on top and the face. In some parts it is cracked do bad the foam is showing. I bought a dash replacement from Moss to replace the existing dash. Before I got started I had a few questions and went to the archives. I found one suggestion where it says "Do not destroy the hard foam on the dash." My questions.

1. Is this the hard foam on the facing or on the top? What happens if the foam is destroyed?

2. Do you have to remove the windshield to replace the dash?

3. While I am at it what else should I do while I have the dash off?

4. Hints and suggestions on how to do this?

Thanks George
G.L. Logan

George: Here are my thoughts:
1. The hard foam refers to the impact area of the earlier "Abington Pillow" type dashes found on the 68-71 NA Federalized cars. I have done a 69 dash, and this must be left intact, but on yours it doesnt exist. It was replaced by air vents and a glove box;
2.No;
3. Remove and clean the instruments, especially the rectangular oil pressure gauge which is a bugger to get to in situ;
4. Be prepared to be on your back for a while to remove the dash. It is easier when the seats happen to be out, so you have more room to stretch out, and with the steering wheel removed. This gives you lots of room under the dash to work. But unless you engaged in some serious restoration work, this isnt likely.
5. Wear impact type eye protection (shooters glasses for example) to keep dust out of your eyes. Use one of those florescent tube type trouble lights instead of the usual 100W bulb - less bulky, less heat.
6. Consider replacing the windshield glass. Despite what I wrote above, it is much easier to get the frame on and off with the dash out.
7. When actually replacing the dash cover have lots of clamps and clothes pins to hold the edges, and several small sand or shot filled bags on hand to provide weight to hold the cover on while the glue dries. This is especially important in the area of the temp gauge cut out where the dash bulges outwards.
Andrew Blackley

Another good thing to do while you have the dash out is inspect all the wiring back there. Clean all connections, tidy up wire bundles, things like that. Replace all grommets in the fire wall that are dry and cracking. Basically, examine, fix or replace anything you can see back there once you have the dash off.
Kim de B

George,

I just went through what you're planning with the dash on my V8 project. I'm using a '74 dash that I ordered from Moss as well.

I do have the 'hard foam' on this dash. It surrounds the face-level vents and the glove box. When you get your dash out and everything removed, have a look inside the openings for the vents and glove box. You'll be able to see the hard foam attached to the metal backing. It's not glued to the dash foam. This 'hard foam' is probably not replacable and acts as a....ahh....."safety cushion" (not sure I'd want to crack my head on it has it doesn't seem to have much give).

Read the instructions very carefully. I went through them a couple of times just so I knew what I was doing.

The best part of the project is actually removing the old foam and plastic. Don't worry about saving any of it. I just used a razor knife and a sharp scraper to work the old dash off the metal backing.

A couple of tips: 1: when you get around to folding the edges over, try to keep them as warm as possible (room temperature is good). I mention this only because I did mine in the garage and even though it's not that cold out here, the plastic was hard to fold. A hair dryer might work.

2: when you go to cut out the openings (after much trepidation) use the sharpest razor knife you can find. The plastic is pretty easy to cut. One opening I'll mention specifically; the blower switch. I cut the opening as per the instructions and removed the square of plastic. When I test-fit a switch, I found the right edge "disappeared" behind the dash plastic. Looking at the old dash I had for guidance, I noticed that the factory-cut in this location actually left the piece that I had just cut out still attached on the right side edge and was folded around behind the dash. This eliminated the problem of the switch getting caught behind the plastic (Does this make sense?).

Not a big deal but I know it's there.

I agree with the other guys about replacing anything suspect. I'm using a new harness so I know that's in good shape.

Contact Cement works great for this job. After test-fitting the new dash on the metal backing, I applied it everwhere except on the hard foam and the edges that will be folded over later. I left this to dry overnight and then went after the edges.

Hope this helps. Any other questions, feel free to ask.

Have fun. The dash will look great.

Cheers
Simon
Simon Austin


G.L,
It might be a good idea to clean and lubricate the wiper mechanism, especially if you have the 3-wiper system. Not that you need them much in California, but just in case...
Kari Sillanpaa

Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions. With luck I'll have the time to get started with this project this weekend. Again thanks. George
G.L. Logan

george
i just replaced the dash on my 74 rb ,a few things that will help are remove the speedo that way you can reach up inside to remove a nut that is holding dash pad to dash.almost impossible to reach nut without doing so.you can remove speedo by reaching up underneath and removing the 2 nuts holding speedo in place .the nuts are knurled so they can be turned by hand. disassemble tach and speedo clean glass lens,clean and paint inside body of both with bright white paint,on the pad i purchased from vicky british it had no provision for headlight dimmer switch, no problem leave the dimmer switch off of the dash.take the 2 wires going to the switch and solder them together using good solder
and shrink tubing ,make sure the grounds and connections clean and tight.by painting
the gauges and bypassing the dimmer switch
the dash lites using standard bulbsare able to be seen at nite much brighter.on the connections that are spade terminals take pliers and sqeeze the terminal flat when putting terminals back on connectors use dielectric grease on terminals .look forward to bending around under dash in ways
body not ment to bend.will be glad to help with any other questions

jim
ja adams

I am about to start the same task and was reading the instructions which came with the dash and was wondering why it is necessary to drill out the pop rivets holding the fender washers on the bottom back side....is it necessary that these help hold the new pad when they are reriveted back on?
Frank

Frank,

I believe you are correct. Also attached to those rivets on my donor dash is a flap of vinyl that would appear to hang down behind the radio consol to hide the seat belt buzzer (but I'm only guessing here).

I just looked on my '74 (not the project I mentioned earlier) and either I left it off when I restored the car or it's hidden behind the dash. I can see the buzzer just above the consol.

Cheers
Simon

P.S. Seems like a lot of rivets just to hold some vinyl but maybe someone else has some ideas about them.
Simon Austin

I have looked at a spare dash I have removed and the band-like metal pieces that extend from the bottom back of the dash and are what I believe my instructions that came with my dash refer to as the fender washers do not have any of the vinyl material beneath them and therefore I am trying to understand the reason for drilling out the spot welds that hold them in place. If anyone else out there that has replaced their dash can chime in a explain exactly what they are referring to and why this must be done please let me know.
Frank

This thread was discussed between 14/04/2003 and 17/04/2003

MG MGB Technical index

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