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MG MGB Technical - removal of air cannister

I got ride of some of the emisson stuff(air pump, check valve and air manifold) long ago but I would still like to clean up some of the extra hoses, piping and stuff. Can I just remove the black canister and the hose to the valve cover and just leave the valve cover with the breather pipe uncovered. how about the metal pipe that connects the two carbs to the cannister.
anything else I can get ride of. I live in the boondocks of Arizona and smog checks are not an issue.
Berady

Hi,
I removed the air pump and rail years ago. I plugged the holes in the cylinder head as part of the deal. The hoses that come from the overflow at the float bowls (SU) I left connected to the steel pipe. When I removed the cannister, I plugged the valve cover nipple and threw away the hose to the cannister. The above mentioned steel pipe,which runs along the front bulkhead, I connected (using a short piece of rubber tubing) to the line that returns to the gas tank by way of the vapor contraption located in the trunk of the beast. I also removed the running on valve contraption, don't need it as the car runs properly and doesn't "run on". Also removed the switch that is located (used to be) between the oil pressure hose from the engine to the oil pressure gauge. It used to work in conjunction with the running on valve. Works like jam ! Alan
ALan

Alan,
What year is your 'B? Mine is a '72 & has basically the same done to it by PO. I'd just like to check & make sure it is the same as yours.
Thanks, Graham
Graham

Hi,
My "B" is a 73. I have dual SU HS4 carbs a more agressive cam, steel valve seat inserts. Also the oil filler cap on the valve cover is the loose fit type - in other words not airtight. Apparently there are 2 different types of filler caps. I have installed a Delco alternator - great move and well worth the little bit of $$$ it cost to do it. Threw away the points and condenser 10 years ago and went to Crane electronic ignition. Never a problem. Next I will chuck out the point system and go electronic with the fuel pump. I sincerely believe that the mods I have made to the car have made it more reliable. As a side note I chucked out every Lucas wire connector in the car front to back, skinned the wires, soldered them together and used heat shrink tubing to cover the solder joints. All of the electrics now work all of the time. In one of the posts on this BBS someone is asking why the Hi beams don't work... I will bet a dollar to a donut that the Lucas wire connector that feeds the front hi beams is corroded and not making a good connection . That is exactly why I did the "wire work", so that I do not have those kind of problems anymore. Good luck. Alan
Alan

Thanks for the above info. I take it that if I keep the nipple on the valve cape open then I can still use the sealed valve cover cap. Mine is a 70.
Berady

I've got basically the same setup on my '73 c/o the PO. Make sure you have proper crankcase ventilation and vent the gas tank. I've got an aluminum valve cover with a breather oil filler cap. On a side note. I've got a slate wire to in line fuse which comes out of the wiring loom near the fuse box and connects to a slate with purple tracer wire. My tester doesn't show any power on either side of the fuse. Is this for the anti-runon valve that has been removed?
Greg Bowman

By rights you should seal the vent on top of the rocker cover and use a vented cap which contains a filter.

The slate (from the ignition switch) and slate/pink are for the anti-runon valve, they would normally be live when the ignition is off.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 13/08/2002 and 15/08/2002

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