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MG MGB Technical - Refitting of rear shock absorbers & drop links

Guys,

Following on from my recent threads on the rear shocks & ARB, I shall shortly be refitting the shocks & the drop links (both of the links are new) at the rear of the car.
Should i apply some copper ease or aluminium ease to the taper of the link arms that the shock absorber arms attach to?
How tight should the drop link nuts (top & bottom)
be ? (I can find torque settings for the shock absorber mountings & the ARB pivot bolts & nuts).
When i removed the original links , they were so rusted on that i had to cut them off etc. so no "feel" for how tight they should be.
(I am using new bolts,plain washers, springs washers & nuts for all components removed & refitted).

Cheers,

Charles
Charles9

I've also had to cut drop-links off in the past, front and rear.

I always use copper-grease when reassembling metal parts, and Waxoyl if rubber is involved.

I have found that the damper to chassis rail nuts/bolts do need to be tighter than what would normally 'feel' right or they can knock over bumps. Other than that if no specific torque value is given then go by the standard values for oiled threads.
paulh4

Charles,
if you're using an anti-seize on the threads the general thought is they don't as high torque levels so if done tight that should equate to more than tight dry, if you follow me.

So tight but not murder, mechanics forearm, tight, always pays to check tightness after first good run anyway but again don't go mad.

Have a look for VRM's post about torque values, outside of strict controls of materials values won't be spot on.

If you're using new nuts and bolts cross-check the threads on them, I try three different nuts to each bolt/setscrew, and three different bolt/setscrews against each nut, fully going up and down the dry threads using only fingertips, as threads can get damaged or be poorly made. You don't want to be messing with any that don't fully play along when doing that sort of work.

I bin quite a few nuts and a few setscrews, or save them for more accessible, easier and less critical jobs.
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Paul & Nigel for your comments & observations!

- it seems that torque values , drop links & ARB related issues are very popular at the moment.

I agree with you Nigel about checking threads etc. before proceeding to refit a component & take on board that "tight" when using anti-sieze in reality ends up tighter than fitted dry. (Just trying to make it easier to take things apart again in the future...............)!

Cheers,Charles

Charles9

Had an annoying knocking from the rear suspension on inspection it was coming from the link bar so ordered a replacement, when I went to fit the new one the nut was loose, tightened it job done. Now I have a spare pair, maybe I'll need them in the future.
Trevor Harvey

Sod's Law says not :o)
paulh4

Hi Nigel & Paul,

Dampers back on - torqued to 58 lbf ft as per manual - as you say that is pretty tight (I was beginning to think I'd shift the car off it's 4 axle stands + hydraulic jack). Oh for a proper lift like in wheeler dealers etc. (The cars always go up in 20 seconds , whereas it takes me quite a bit longer to lift the front , then axle stands ,lift the back , then axle stands & all the while checking that the car looks & feels stable & that the axle stands aren't pinching anything vital like a pipe or some cable..... + additional support from the hydraulic jack & other spare axle stands placed at one or two strategic spots as a back up!

Drop links on to a good forearm feel , which i managed to achieve without the rubber ball joints twisting (unlike when i endeavoured to get the old ones off). Hopefully the clunking from the rear of the car will have disappeared when i eventually get it back on the road after lockdown......
Unlike Trevor , my drop links looked very tired!

Thanks Guys

Cheers

Charles
Charles9

This thread was discussed between 28/12/2020 and 13/01/2021

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