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MG MGB Technical - Rear Slave cylinder holding clip

Have struggled for 30 minutes trying to fit this simple clip to lock the slave cylinder to the back plate. Is there a simple approach apart from the obvious Haynes reassembly is the reverse of disassembly?
TIA
Martin

I hate those stupid clips. As my father would say "the guy who invented this thing must still be laughing ... in his padded cell". I tend to use the old ones, which have been twisted and weakened a bit, rather use the new ones included with a new wheel cyl. Next time I have to do one, I may try drilling holes in the ends of the clip and using snap-ring pliers, or maybe filing down the ends a bit.
Tom

Martin,
Bob Thompson got me started using snap rings instead of those damned clips. The local parts house has a large selection. I found some wide ones that worked well. They were, well, a snap to put on.
David
David

Look in the archives. Chris once wrote a good answer and solution.
Ken R
Ken Rich

Martin,
When I did my brakes a couple of years ago I faced the same problem. I took a piece of wooden dowel rod about 3/4" in dia and 6" long. Cut a slot in one end a little off center. Put the slot over the top of the clip and tapped it home with a small hammmer. Took about 10 seconds per side once I cut the dowel rod.
Mike
Mike Crowley

I like Mike'a approach unless on could come up with the proper installation tool (they do exist, but I haven't found one yet). I have found that a large vocabulary of various oaths is a help. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Ah, you mean the rear wheel cylinder here in the US. I find the lead in bevel too shallow and grind it almost back to the section that is at right angles to the inner circle. This makes it much easier to get on and has never failed in service after many years of use. It is also of very great assistance to have someone available to hold the rear wheel cylinder in place while you install the e-clip. Les
Les Bengtson

Anyone who wants one of those special tools - I have them at £25 ($42)
Chris Betson

Many thanks for the advice. Trying to do it in situ, and Phil UK and myself spent ages. Would love a tool, Chris, but for a one off job.....!

Anyway, this, and a restudded manifold is all that stands between firing up the freshly rebuilt 1860, stg 2 715 engine. Ooher, missus, can't wait!!!
Martin

Martin. That is the problem with many special tools. I have developed a number of them over the years which make various jobs significantly easier. However, special tooling is expensive, especially when you only expect to do a job once or twice in the ownership of the car. I have a very good tool for removing the pilot bushing (spigot bushings) from the crankshaft. But this is a once in 80K miles job. I also have a took that makes removing the main bearing caps at each end much easier and allow one to install the caps without dropping the bearings. This is a once in 100+K job. The problem is that the cost of producing such things, as a one off, is prohibitive. They could be produced, using CNC machining, for a much lower cost, but this requires the purchase of a minimum of 50 units. With a relatively low demand, this ties up a lot of money over a long period of time and results in a very low, if any, return on investment. It would seem to me that this is where a local club may be of benefit. With a number of members, the cost is spread over a much larger base and such tools become more attactive. My local MG club has things like the kingpin reamer for the MGB and midget. If you belong to an MG club, you may wish to discuss such things with them. Certainly, the tool to install the E clips on the rear wheel cylinders would be a very useful item to have in the tool crib of an active club. Les
Les Bengtson

I had the sam problem whn e i changed mine. What i did after fumbling with the new ones i got with the cylinder and getting no where i got the old ones and a dinky hammer and did one side in about 20 mins after 40 mins trying the other side i used an old clip and turned it around which made it fit on easyly not flush fitting and probably not as strong but i understand that the force is not in that outward direction when braking.
jim

Last time I did mine I reused the old ones. Not from any attempt at easier fitting mind you, but from necessity. Being a bit of a cheapskate I bought the copy cylinders rather than the Lockheed ones. The price difference appears to be in the clips, everything else looks of the same quality. The Lockheed clips are spring steel and, while a complete ^%$"£!£)*^&* to fit, work. The copy ones have Italian steel clips. When you attempt to prise these into place, they break!
T J C Cuthill

Did this at the weekend. I had to use the rusty old one but clipped the new one over the old cylinder to stretch it ready for next time!
Steve Postins

I just replaced a wheel cylinder last weekend and was pleasantly surprised when it only took me a minute to get the clip on. I used a slip joint plier and opened it wide enough to grasp the top of the clip and the bottom of the area it slips onto. I applied steady pressre and it went right on. Got lucky I guess.
Greg Smela

Following Les's comments I have looked into alternative sources of supply and if I can get sufficient orders (25 or so) I could get the price down to £12.50! ($20).

Would anyone be interested - these are Lockheed made tools - not cheap rubbish!
Chris Betson

Victoria British - 17-886 Fitting Tool - Circlip. $26.95 ($33.69, regular price).

I do not have one of these, myself, so I cannot
personally attest to it's usefulness or efficacy.

My technique is very similar to Mike Crowley's.

On occasion, I've split the wooden dowel and
have since resorted to a solid metal version.
I radiused and taped the business end to
minimize putting scratches on the backplate.
I also use copious amounts of cursing on those
times when smacking the "E" clip sends it sailing
across the yard. Tying a small string on one of the
legs on the "E" clip suppresses the distance that
it may fly, however. Cut off string, once installed.
Daniel Wong

I decided my sanity was worth it and bought the tool when I did my brakes. It does exactly what it is designed to do with no struggle or fuss. Worth the money to me.
Carl Holm

Apologies for the delay in feeding back. I took a look at theses, and as the olds literally crumbled upon looking at them, re-use was definitely out of the question. As several people pointed out, the tips dig into the groove, so firstly I made sure the backing plate was clean and free of any rust etc to get a perfect seat to ensure the groove was properly exposed. Then I cleaned the outside of the backing plate again to ensure the groove was clear. Then I cheated and filed the tips down leaving sufficient to grip the cylinder, but avoiding the tip digging in. I then used a large screwdriver against the spring shackle plate and levered them into position. Both sides took about 30 seconds each to fit!!!! As these were fairly good steel clips, I figured I have left enough strength to grip on all three points.
Hope this helps everybody else. The worse part was probably all the awkward springs to re-fit elsewhere. Anyway, the recon/exch manifold arrives tomorrow, and the evening will be a case of filling the fluids and then, in deference to the neighbours, lighting her up on Friday morning and burning that 715 in! Then it's minor bodywork repairs over the weekend and off to the MOT man next week! Oh boy!
Martin

This thread was discussed between 25/06/2003 and 26/06/2003

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