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MG MGB Technical - rear end clonk

Hi

I changed my thrust washers in my diff. (Thanks to all the instructions in the archives.)

I had a bit of trouble with some bits and so for once thought rather than ask a question I'd add my tips.

Removing the drive plate. Spent a couple of hours on this. Final solution was to go to Halfords and buy a puller, came off in less than 5 seconds. (Not much of a tip but a definite case of the right tool for the job).

Removing half shaft. Mine would not budge. Eventually I put a 22mm ring spanner over the axle and put the castellated nut back on. I rotated the spanner so it pointed backwards, I then used a car jack between the spanner and the spring hanger that holds the outer tube of the axle. Pressed off in no time (being watchfull I didn't just ramp up the car jack without looking at what the spring hanger was doing).

The pinion pin (if that's its name). As in archives tap through so end with holes is showing and rotate cage. I then spent, I would again guess two hours, with rope, steel wire, vise grips, hammers at the end of chains etc. all to no avail. Finally took wheel brace (one of those cross ones) drilled hole through the sides at one of the ends, put it over the pinion pin with the holes lined up and put a srewdriver skewer through the lot. It still took some hard pulling but the wheel brace gives a good grip and allows you to rotate it from side to side when pulling. It eventually came out.

Whole thing took nine hours, but would have taken half that if I'd been a bit smarter and figured out the above sooner.

regards
Darren

D Lewis

Of course it still clonks...
D Lewis

You could check your U joints on the prop shaft and also all the spring mounting hardware and rubber. Also check that the shocks are bolted up tight. I once had a terrible clonk at the back of mine on the Auckland harbour bridge which is NOT a place to break down. Got off the bridge and pulled over and found the two bolts holding on the left rear shock were both loose (but not lost luckily).
Simon Jansen

Good ideas, thanks.
I had a clonk taking up drive from forward to reverse and back again on a previous car. Turned out to be worn wheel splines.
Rich
Rich

Thanks for the pointers.

I'll need to give the whole area a tighten up although a few thousand miles ago I had the springs off and spent a fair bit of time making sure they were tight when they went back on. I checked the U-joint before doing the diff (it seemed as easier job on paper so was hoping the slack would be there) but it seemed ok. I've got bolt on wheels - and the drive plates are certainly not loose! - so it can't be the spines in my case. Another day under the car I guess...

Darren
D Lewis

Did you change both UJ's Darren? I nearly didn't bother with mine as they seemed fine but when I stripped them both had some spiders with dry/rusty rollers and pitting. They didn't clunk but the car was smoother after. Rich.
Rich

How easily did the washers go in? They should be pretty close as you try to slide them between the gears. I needed to double up one worn and one new washer to take up the wear on the spiders. My first fix using just the new washers lasted no time at all.
Steve Postins

Hi

Rich - I haven't changed either U joint - I checked whether they had any free play and they didn't seem to so I turned to the diff. - thanks for the pointer that they might still need changing but I'm on the clonk for now!

Steve - Now you've worried me - I was please at how easily they did go in. I had thought about doubling up on washers but read there were concerns about things getting too tight in there when warmed up. I'm not sure which gear is called what (sun, planets, spiders - I don't know) did you double up on the copper or the fibre washers?

The car has a Spax conversion, some of the bolts not particularly tight (though not really loose either) a tweak up of those hasn't helped...

cheers
Darren
D Lewis

It was the copper washers I doubled, although I played with getting extra fibre ones in. My Roaster had doubled up washers from a PO so I didn't have much doubt about doing it on the GT. It's been fine on both and a lot quieter.
Steve Postins

This thread was discussed between 21/03/2005 and 22/03/2005

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.