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MG MGB Technical - Please tell me its not the clutch...
| My 72 roadster continues to reveal new challanges. Here is the current concern. Especially going up hills, the engine seems to be turning at a much higher rate than I am getting power for. I can rev the engine and feel little power - like the clutch is down. So am I in for a new clutch - or is there something else "easier" I can try first? If I am in for a clutch, could someone tell me about how much I should budget for this repair - assuming a pro does the job. As a side note, what is a common estimate to rebuild a MG 4 cylinder? Thanks for the help. Alan |
| Alan |
| Unfortunately, it does sound like your clutch is slipping. Drive slowly in fourth gear, and rev the engine quickly. If the RPMs rise suddenly also, then the clutch needs to be replaced. Slipping is due to wear and/or oil on the clutch disk, and the only cure is replacement. Cost to replace a clutch really varies around the country. I think about $800 is average, since the engine has to come out. Since you asked about an engine rebuild, it sounds like you have noticed other problems. Maybe consider rebuilding the engine now and replacing the clutch with it of course. A really thorough rebuild (check out www.mgbmga.com) is about $4500 or so, $3500 if you just send them the engine. Replacing the clutch is a do it yourself job, although there are lots of other things that should be replaced at the same time (engine rear seal, front gearbox seals, engine mounts if worn.) If your engine still has a lot of miles in it, you may want to consider clutch replacement yourself, for about $140 in parts max. |
| Ronald |
| Alan- Yup. You need a new clutch, alrighty. Not to worry, if my eighteen-year-old can do it, you can too. How much for an engine rebuild? That depends entirely upon what you term a "rebuild". Want to gamble and regrind your ancient valves and reuse the tired valve springs? The less expensive shops will, in a heartbeat. Ask about their Warranty. If they truly Rebuild the engine rather than El Cheapo overhauling it, the warranty should be as good as that of a new engine: 36 Months or 3,000 Miles. |
| Steve S. |
| Alan. As others have noted, it sounds very much like a clutch problem. Removing the engine takes about a day the first time you do it. Get a copy of the factory workshop manual, either the excellent Bentley reprint or the similar Haynes abstract, and follow the directions. An engine hoist may be rented for about $25 per day. If you can find a tilt mechanism to use with it (allows you to tilt the engine and transmission to make it easier to remove) get it. While you have the engine out, at the very least, have the flywheel resurfaced and use a new lock tab when you put it back together. You will probably need an impact wrench with a modified socket to get the flywheel bolts loose. I use blue Loctite on the bolts when I put it back together. There is a wealth of material in the archives on this subject giving my opinions and many others. Read the books, check out the archives and ask questions about what is not clear. Les |
| Les Bengtson |
| As long as we're talking about clutches here, I have a problem of my own. On the colder mornings around here(35# F.), my clutch does not fully engage. During the first several shifts(less than ten) or so, it slips as Alan described. Except I'm not going uphill, I'm just driving on level ground. It only does this when cold, and only for the first few shifts, it has never done it at any other time. It started about three weeks ago. I installed a new Borg and Beck heavy duty clutch kit, with a Std. release bearing about five months ago and 4,000 miles, the flywheel had been resurfaced too. As everything is still fairly new, and it only gives me problems at this one time, I'm content to live with it until it gets worse. I'd still like to know if anybody has an opinion on the matter. |
| Jared Snider |
| Jared; Have you replaced your clutch hose lately? Thats the first thing that comes to my mind? There bad to develop a blockage and not allow the fluid to flow freely. Bob Thompson/International Auto |
| Bob Thompson |
| Alan, check to see if there's a club in your area. Many times club members are more than helpful if you want to do the clutch job yourself. Or they can recommend the best MG mechanics in your area. They usually have inside information that is extremely helpful. |
| Ken thompson |
| Bob, Yes, the clutch hose was replaced with a braided stainless steel hose(from moss) at the same time as the clutch itself. Shortly after that the hydraulics started to go, so the master cylinder was replaced with a new unit(lockheed) and the slave cylinder was rebuilt. Maybe a good bleeding would be in order?(sounds like something a 17th century doctor might say.) |
| Jared Snider |
| I suspected as much. Well, thanks for all the help. I will consider my options. If I decide to tackle the job myself, I will likely be requesting more help. Thanks again. Alan |
| Alan |
This thread was discussed between 21/01/2002 and 23/01/2002
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