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MG MGB Technical - Not run in 13 years - recommissioning procedure?

Looking for member's advice & assistance!

My sister owns a 1971 mgb roadster which was parked - without special preparation - in our mother's dry but unheated garage in 1991. It has not been moved since, although the engine was started and briefly run for a short time about 1996.

My sister is interested in getting the car running again, but I am concerned that any efforts to start and run it - without proper "recommissioning" - will cause irrepairable harm.

I am prepared to remove spark plugs, inject oil, turn engine over by hand, etc., but there probably are a thousand details which should be observed - most of which won't come immediately to my mind until too late!

Can anyone offer advice/suggestions/cautions?

Possible a web reference to resources & advice?

Many thanks in advance!

George R Wright
Buckingham Pennsylvania USA
George Wright

How exciting - it's going to need more than a kiss tho. You'll find an almost dauntingly complete list on a site called theAutoist.com run by Tony Barnhill in Alabama. The title is Awakening a sleeping MG and it's under the heading Weimerology.

Good Luck
Vic
V Todman

GW
Without reinventing the wheel and writing everything down again I would suggest you read what is written on the following web pages http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/de101a.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/de101b.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/de102.htm
anthis is only for the engine...do you want more? You should look at the brakes and renew all of the rubber seals ensuring the pistons move. (they may need to be replaced after all of these years) let us know how you get on.
Cecil Kimber

13 years of sitting is a long time.


Also be prepared to rebuild or renew all of the brake and clutch hydraulics.

One time, I resurrected my '71 B/GT after a 10 year
sleep.

During it's first drive out - I was about 6 miles away from home when the brake pedal sank straight to the floor. Then, while very slowly limping home (during
one of L.A.'s infamous rush hours) - the clutch pedal
suddenly went kaput.

You just don't forget days like that.
Daniel Wong

I have been resurrecting a 73 MGB that was just parked in a shed for ten years - no preparation. It became a home to rats and mice and squirrels. They loved the wiring insulation. I have spent the past year getting it running. When I got the car the brakes were so rusted that the wheels would not hardly roll. I had to completely gut the interior and rebuild and clean rust and dirt from everything. The engine had to be rebuilt, new over-drive transmission, all new brakes, drums and rotors, complete clutch and clutch system, redo the radiator and heater core, all new suspension bushings and rubber, new hoses, rebuild the front suspension, new rear springs, ignition, etc., etc., etc. But, it has been worth it. It now runs great and is looking better and better everyday. There is something about driving an MG. If you have any special questions feel free to email me and I will try to help you any way I can.
Robert
rlbipi@aol.com
Robert Browning

I was a bit luckier than Robert. My engine started relatively easily, a couple of quick oil changes and new electrics and it seems fine so far. But as Daniel says I had to renew the clutch hydraulics and didn't take a chance with the brakes - new m/c, calipers and rear cylinders, pipes were brass. Clutch is most probably seized aswell but there are various ways of releasing it from the gentle to extreme. Most gentle is to run the engine for 30 minutes and let the heat try to ease it. My way was a little more violent - jack up the rear axle, start the car in 3rd gear, press clutch and pull on hand-brake at the same time.

Happy to anser emails if useful. Richard
Richard Evans

George,

Fuel that is 12 years old can give problems. The more volatile components will have long gone. The heavier components on their own can have strange effects. Hard starting is obvious, but all sorts of blockages can occur in the pump and carbs. Drain and refill with fresh fuel.
Crank the engine on the starter without spark plugs until you get oil pressure (with new oil).

Mick
M F Anderson

George,
After reading the comments, I think that we need to take our chances with it. The carbs were cleaned and it did run about 6 years ago.
Trish
Trish

George,

I've been throught this with an MGA (sat for 5 years), a TD (sat for 33 years,just finishing it) and an MGB (was in boxes, how long it sat is unknown). I live in Yardley, PA, not far from you. email me on my home email (spectors4@msn.com) if you need some local advice; I can then give you my phone number and advice on local mechanics. As a rule, you will need to clean out the old gas, clean the tank and install fuel line filters to collect the crud, rebuild the carbs, redo all hoses and belts, rebuild the brakes (lines and wheel cylinders), replace the master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder, replace the tires and any rubber parts (bushings, hoses), clean out the cooling system, replace the freeze plugs, possibly replace the water pump (I would), replace the thermostat, and check the wiring. A tuneup (points, plugs, wires, condenser, distributor cap and possibly coil) is also in order. The battery cables should also be replaced.

Do it one step at a time. Treat each step as a victory. Do the engine and brakes first, so that it is running and drivable. Leave cosmetics for last.

My TD sat in a barn from 1968 until 1991, and is just about done now, after 2 1/2 years. So this can be done. Just be patient.

Good luck,

Ira Spector

Ira Spector

This thread was discussed between 18/07/2003 and 22/07/2003

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