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MG MGB Technical - MGB 1972 1800 litre Won't go into gear pls advise

Hi all, I inherited the car when dad passed away. Had the car now for 20 years. Kept it garaged. Used to take it out for 2 weeks once a year drove it around 200 miles then back in garage for 11 months. Never had a problem except after it stood for the 11 months the clutch would stick when first driving it again but then free up and drove fine no issues. Unfortunately due to health reasons it stood for 4 years and when I was able to get it out the usual clutch sticking happened but then it also wouldn't change gear properly, as though I hadn't depressed the clutch at all, made some horrible sounds trying to get the gear to engage. Towed to garage, they figured it needed a new clutch, was there for a year while they worked on it as a side project, got it back and its exactly the same. Won't go into gear unless the engines off, so with the engine off I put it into first and it will engage but won't go into second or any other gear unless I switch off the engine. Could it be something as simple as clutch fluid? I've ordered a Hayes manual to try to understand the basics. I've never had a problem with it before, so Ive never had to learn. Any ideas what the cause of gear issues may be? Cheers
T Keen

Sounds like it needs a good bleed, does the clutch pedal feel nice and firm right from the start or soggy for the first half of it's travel--
'If' they've fitted a new clutch slave cylinder the hose 'might' be in the wrong hole causing an airlock, The bleeder needs to be in the top hole
William Revit

I can't believe they gave it back just the same, and after a year. Don't ever use them again.

Unfortunately after 4 years you may not remember what the clutch felt like when it was working, modern cars are usually lighter than a working MGB.

If it did get a new clutch then it's almost certainly a hydraulic problem, but under the circumstances they may not have changed it even if they charged you for it, and clutches can stick after a long period of non-use.

As well as checking the position of the hose and bleed nipple (although more than once I've reverse filled/bled an MGB clutch so I don't think the position is important enough to prevent the clutch operating) have someone push the pedal up and down and see if there is any movement of the push-rod coming out of the slave, should me about 11-12mm i.e. just less than 1/2". If you get some but less than that it does need bleeding, try wedging the pedal fully down over night then releasing it next morning, that often flushes any air back into the reservoir and out of the way.

If no movement with the pedal pushed fully down open the bleed nipple. If only a bit of fluid dribbles out, or nothing at all, then either the master isn't generating any pressure or the line to the slave is blocked.

What you get will determine what comes next.
paulh4

Agree with all the above and add: check the clevis between master cylinder and pedal for wear. Play here can use up a big chunk of pedal travel before it even starts to move the mcyl piston.
Paul Walbran

TK
Should have asked first up -When you say the clutch sticks, what do you mean by that-could you describe that please--Is it the pedal sticking or do you mean the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel/cover
willy
William Revit

Thanks everyone for your kind replies. So usually when I got the car out of the garage the clutch would have freezed up, which was a simple fix of starting the engine in 3rd gear and thejolt would unfreeze it,no problems.But after standing for 4 years it just wouldn't go into gear properly. I called the rescue service and they said it needs a new clutch, took to garage got it back and still has the same problem. I wouldn't know the first thing about how to fix it, so it's stuck on the driveway. I have a feeling it may have just needed something as simple as clutch fluid whih may have evaporated after standing for four years but I dont know where the resovouir is or how much to put in, I wonder if there's anyone local who could possibly have a look at it?
T Keen

T Keen,
the clutch fluid should at least be present, unless it's all leaked out, as it'd be needed for checking after the clutch change, it may still want replacing if it wasn't done then (brake fluid is more important).

Photo below is just an example, from the internet, for you of a MGB brake (most important) and clutch fluid (master cylinder) reservoirs.

If you buy yourself a copy of the relevant Driver's Handbook and read it and refer to it you'll know more about the car than many long term owners. One example supplier. - https://mgshop.co.uk/product-category/books/handbooks/

Image2 is the contents page for the (combined) reprinted Driver's Handbook that cover MG midget year.

You don't say what model year, or type, of B you have, over the 18 years of production there were very many small changes but the generalities and more remined the same.

You can post two photos per post here so taking a photo of your car and under bonnet can often help, also you can add details and photo(s) to your 'Vehicle profile' and make it available for others to view, as I have (click the link to see).






Nigel Atkins

From what you say I think you are going to struggle diagnosing and fixing this. Even if it is as simple as no fluid simply pouring some in isn't going to help as the system will need bleeding (removal of air) and that is not a trivial task on an MGB.

You say you are in Cheshire. I know this isn't an MGOC (owners club) forum but they publish a directory of workshops with three in Cheshire - Trevor Farrington in Knutsford, Aero Motors Chelford in Macclesfield and FM Sportscars in Warrington. I have no experience of any of them.
paulh4

Hi Nigel and Paul, thanks for your replies. I did put the year 1972 in my post heading but not the model Roadster, soft top convertible. I did try several attempts to post images of the car but couldn't get it to upload. I have ordered a Haynes manual for info on the hydrolics system and to acquaint myself with general maintenance basics under the bonnet. In the past I always had the Welsh MG centre deal with servicing and any issues, but they are expensive for major works, and I can't get the car to them, hence my local garage having to deal with the clutch renew but classics are not their usual vehicle to fix which is why I held the hope they may have overlooked the clutch fluid level as ridiculous as that sounds. Anyway due to all this I've also become a member of the MGB owners club and they advise its likely
that when it was standing for 4 years the rubber seals were damaged and affected the correct operation of the slave cylinder I've watched a video on how to replace it and its beyond me but at least with everyone on here's input and the Mg owners club tech support it seems likely the problem has been identified! I was also hoping there might be a mobile MG mechanic / community member on this forum who may be interested to take a look as the cars not driveable and seemingly it could now be fixed on the driveway, since the clutch engine out senerio has been completed. Sorry for such a long post! and thanks again for all your sound advise. Cheers trish
T Keen

Sorry Trish I forgot to look at the subject title, doh.

Your photos may be too large to upload, just resize them smaller if so (landscape instead of portrait will get more into the photo if using a phone).

The Haynes can be useful but the Driver's Handbook will be more useful generally and covers general driving and maintenance better than a Haynes which is more about repairs.

I'd suggest you seek advice from the local members of your areas' MGOC club or other MG or general classic car club, a likely cause has been identified but it needs confirming.

Good luck, I hope you get it sorted soon.


Nigel Atkins

If you are near Welsh MG there is a Chester and Wrexham branch of the owners club. No web site but Phone: 01978 721185 or 07928 975898
Email: nine8ths@gmail.com
paulh4

Tried again to upload pics says its uploaded but they don't seem to be on here. Anyway great advice from you both which I've taken on board. I'm in Chester so will call the Chester branch number and see what they say. Really appreciate all your advice, will keep you all posted.
T Keen

Hi Trish
If you are loading pics on their own -
Once you have uploaded the pics and can see them and clicked on the submit button , then you have to go down below the text box where you normally write things and click on the submit button there as well--to send it/them in---Max photo size is roughly 400KB
You can also do pics (submit them)and also some text as well in the same posting then submit again at the bottom and the whole lot will go in together--
Cheers
willy
William Revit

Willy, I agree with your directions for posting pictures, however, following the system upgrade a year or so ago, I've been able to upload pictures sized up to nearly 2meg. Unfortunately, the pics from my iPhone are generally in the 4meg range so I still have to resize them. resizing is pretty easy using MS paint. It just means I have extra copies of the same pics.

Jud
J K Chapin

Cheers Jud, I've just got used to the 400Kb size, I must admit I didn't realise the size limit had been increased--my apologies for posting false(out of date) info
willy
Now all we have to do is get Trish's clutch sorted for her and we'll all be happy--
William Revit

Trish,
if you are able to upload the photos to here it *might* help a lot with diagnosis.

As well as pressing the 'Submit' button on the 'Upload a picture' depending on the computer device you are using to view this BBS it *might* be they you've not made the (photos) images viewable within the posts.

See images below - click on 'Customise' at top right of this page, then on the Customise page scroll down to 'View images within posts in-line', click on the 'Yes' button and click on the 'Save options' button at the very bottom of the page.






Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 11/06/2022 and 20/06/2022

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