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Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Lighting improvements

There have been messages before about upgrading lighting (instruments, headlights; tail lights) to LED units.
Here is a useful web site for LEDs and other lighting upgrade supplies in the UK:

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/index.htm

Guy
Guy Weller

Sorry, wrong list! - I intended passing the link on to the midgets & Spites list.
Let the sun shine on you!

Guy
Guy Weller

Guy,

Don't apologise.......I've been looking for these........they are rather expensive though, aren't they......we would need 12 bulbs for a complete replacement set for an MGB.

Have you replaced yor Midget ones ?

Is there a big improvement ?

I wonder if the dash-board lights can be replaced....they are rubbish on an MGB.... I seem to recall my Frogeye Sprite's were better.......but it was a long time ago and my eyesight was probably much better then !

Mike
Michael barnfather

Mike,
No I haven't yet replaced bulbs on my Sprite, but had been looking for a supplier and found the link through browsing the MGB messages! - So I pinched the link - hence the apology.

Yes they are pricey! I am planning to replace the stop/ tail lights on mine and maybe the instrument lights too. My headlights seem OK, or maybe I just know the roads around the Lake District too well!

Guy
Guy Weller

Try here:

http://www.superbrightleds.com

Don't know if thats any better...
Karl

Karl,

they seem cheaper......but then there will be import duty and postage........I am still considering it.

Guy, let us know when you get some....I am interested.....maybe we will meet on the Christmas Cracker run and I can check them out !

Mike
Michael barnfather

I have been thinking of this for a while. You may have just pushed me over the edge. Seems better than using halogen units as there is less problem with heat and high current flow to the light assembly.
Steve Simmons

A quick caution on using LEDs in the turn signal circuits: The low current draw of the LEDs may not be enough to make the flasher work as it should. It might flash very slowly, or not at all.

If so, you might be able to cure it by using a 552 type flasher in place of the stock unit. In some cases, even the 552 will not flash LEDs. There are available special flashers for LEDs, but they are expensive and somewhat hard to find. If you need one after switching to LEDs, check the advertisers in Street Rodder or similar magazines.

Please read the "Electrical Problems, Directional & Fuel Guage" thread for more info on the 552 flasher.
Dan Masters

If the flasher will not flash LEDs why not just add a resister in the circiut?
gerry masterman

Gerry - A resistor would only compound the problem. The flasher won't flash with the LEDs because there is not enough current to activate heat the bimetal strip sufficiently to cause it to break contact. Adding a resistor will only reduce the current more.
Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

David and Gerry,

Adding a resister would work if it were added in parallel to the bulbs. However, it would tend to get quite hot in operation. I haven't done the calculation to determine the resistance and wattage needed, but it could be done, even if the resister has to be mounted where heat would not be a problem.

Actually, given the limited amount of time the turn signals are on, it shouldn't be much of a problem. Two resisters would be needed, one for each side.

I'm not sure what the trade offs would be. The resisters would have to be sized such that the flasher saw as much current as before, so the low current benefit of the LEDs would be lost. The stock TS lamps are actually bright enough, if the circuit is in good condition, so I don't know if the added brightness, if any, of the LEDs would be worth the trouble and expense.

Something to ponder over, though.
Dan Masters

I really only want them for the brake and tail lights. They may be the answer to the reoccurring problem of brake light switch failure.
R. L Carleen

RL - Just add a relay and arc suppression circuit to your brake light circuit and the problems with the switch will be history. For information on making and installing the relay and arc suppression circuit, see my article at: http://www.omgtr.ca/technical/brakelightrelay/brakelightrelay.htm
I also have the relay and arc suppression circuit made up with a socket for the relay for ease of installation if you wish to purchase one rather than make your own.

Dan, et all - There are electronic flashers available that may be available to work with the low current LEDs and still retain the ability to detect a burned out light. Of course, one of the supposed advantages of the LED lights is their ability to outlive all of us.
Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Is the brake light switch failing a common problem? I haven't replaced mine in the 16 years I've owned the car. Am I that lucky??? (it's a '65)
Steve Simmons

Steve - You probably have an original Lucas brake light switch in your car. The problem occures when they do fail and are replaced with the crap that is on the market today. The switches that are available now from Moss or anywhere else are so whimpy that they fail anywhere from imeediately to 1 year (I had one that only lasted 1 week). I was lucky enough to get ahold of a couple of NOS Lucas brake light switches and then added the relay and arc suppression circuit to prolong it's life (with luck, it will out last me, then it's my daughter's problem). In your case, I would suggest that you just continue without the relay/arc suppression circuit. Your brake light switch already has some pitting on it (normal) and the relay/arc suppression circuit will not prolong it beyond what you already have (and the chances are that there is enough resistance in the switch that the relay wouldn't work on it, since it draws such a small amount of current). What you might consider is putting a LED between the line going from the brake light switch to the brake lights and ground. This will allow you to monitor the voltage going to the lights rather than having to rely on some other driver telling you that your brake lights aren't working. The LED can be mounted in the small gap between the corner of the dash and the scuttle. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

An interesting note at the bottom of the 1157 bulb replacement LED copy at the SuperBright LED site is something to think about when we think these may be an improvement in some applications:

"led bulbs are generally not as bright as standard incandescent bulbs, they have many advantages over filament bulbs but brightness is not one of them."

As I have said here before, my personal experience with these newer LED type bulb replacements has been underwhelming. For my part, I will continue to use the Halogen bulb replacements that LBCarCo sells until there really is a measurable equality or betterment of brightness (lumens produced) of bright LEDs compared to halogen bulbs.
Bob Muenchausen

with you there, Bob. Put tail and brake halogens in this weekend and makes a large difference. Am thinking about 3rd brake light on top of the tag for even more visibility. May sound paranoid but then again I just spent $3K to repair the car after getting rear ended. Insurance money but the aggravation and not having the car a couple months got my attention.
J.T. Bamford

This thread was discussed between 05/07/2004 and 06/07/2004

MG MGB Technical index

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