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MG MGB Technical - Has anyone tried this bleeding method?

I'm about to bleed my brakes (all brand new and empty).

I see that one man vacuum pumps are very expensive, however, it occurs to me I might be able to use a breast pump, fixed by a tube sealed with blutack to the bleed nipple, to draw the fluid through.

Has anyone tried this?

At 3 quid in ebay it has to be worth a try?

Liam

Liam H

Huh, what? Breasts, nipples? Yes please!

Seriously:
Sounds like a good experiment; I've eyed the big injection-thingies that vets use with the same purpose. When sucking I think you have to block the brake pedal in a depressed position, otherwise the fluid won't flow correctly?
Willem van der Veer

I have used a cap with a fitting and a rubber hose and have presurized the system this way. This is the way some car manufacturers bleed the systems on production.

You must be careful not to use too much presure. This way it was a straight forward process and worked very good.

Ralph

Ralph

I just built one of these and it seems to work great but watch the pressure. I tapped a extra m/c cap for the job. Cost about $25 total, still cheapeer than the eezibleed. Mike
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

MK Mike

If I were you I'd just go for the normal bleeding sequence i.e the furthest awat first (LHR)then going for the RHR, NSF and finally the OSF. Bear in mind that all nipples must be closed if not working on that brake and that you must depress the pedal with an open nipple subsequently closing it before lifting the pedal otherwise you will just draw air into the system. Keep the master cylinder well topped up during the procedure and ensure that the rear brakes are adjusted correctly before you start.
Iain MacKintosh

Liam, can't comment on the type of pump, but I use a vacuum bleeder I built. The main problem is getting the threads of the bleeder screws to seal well enough when the bleeder is open. I usually start the job by removing all the screws and wrapping the threads with teflon tape before I start. Don't get any tape down ont he tapered seat, that will cause sealing problems. Other than that, I works pretty neat. I can usually bleed out a sytem in less than an hour by myself.
Bill Young

The Gunnuisson E-Z Bleed is the same pressurizing unit that you describe. It comes with various adapters for the master cylinder on your application and uses tire pressure, 15 lbs., to pressurize your braking system. The resevoir maintains the fluid level in the MC and the complete job can be done in just minutes. I've had mine for over 10 years and find it a life saver. Ray
RAY

Because of the problem of air entering the system thru the bleeder threads as Bill stated, pressure bleeding the hydraulic systems of these cars seems to be the best way. I have always done the 2 person method which is fine if you have a willing helpeer. I am almost always on my own so this system really helps.
Mike
MK Mike

I use the classic 2-man bleed, except I do it solo. How? The clear plastic tube that has it's end immersed in brake fluid in an old Coke bottle has a bolt screwed into the end to seal it. Then take a sharp utility knife and make a short slit in the tube just above the bolt. When you push the pedal, the slit opens and lets the fluid through. Release the pedal and the slit closes, keeping air and contaminated fluid from returning. I've been doing this for decades. Cheap but effective.
Derek Nicholson

I have built a number of disposable pressure bleeders which work pretty well and cost little to assemble.
Buy a length of clear tubing which will fit over the bleeder nipple, and a valve stem. Then look around your house for a bicycle tire pump and a mayonaise jar - or pickle jar, anything with a wide lid.

In the lid, drill a hole offcenter just smaller than the diameter of the tubing. In the remaining area drill a hole suitable for mounting the valve stem. Shove the tubing into the lid far enough that it reaches the bottom of the container, and install the valve stem. The end of the tubing may need to be shaved a bit to get it started, if you feel the need you can cut it square again after getting it going.

Jars of any material work when using a hand pump as the pressure is so low. If you have a compressor I'd use a plastic jar, and you can just use more tubing instead of a valve stem. I put my blow gun on the end of the tubing without clamping, just shove it on good. Then the hose will pop off before your brake fluid bomb explodes and coats everything with fluid. Drop the pressure down pretty low, ~10 lbs seems to work well(YMMV). I've use this sort of assembly for brakes, clutches, transmission fluid and gear oil with great success. Just remember to drain out the MC occasionally. Animal supply stores (not pet stores) are a good source for large inexpensive disposable syringes which work will for removing fluid from the master.
C Holm

I always start with the brake NEAREST the M/C otherwise air lurks in the side pipes and is compressed and expands as the pedal is operated and can get back into the main line as you bleed the furthest brake forming little slugs of air in the long line when the fluid from the brake being bled is clear of bubbles.

Doing the nearest first reduces this risk.

No need for any fancy kit if doing it alone - just a bit of wood to hold the pedal down and rest on the bottom of the seat - this pressurises the fluid/air and opening the bleed valve produces a good strong squirt of fluid/air which purges the pipes quickly.
Chris at Octarine Services

I purchased a $5.95 hand held garden sprayer from K-Mart. Modified the end by removing (unscrewed) the nozzle and squeezed a 1/4" poly hose over it. Filled 3/4 full, pumped up pressure ,placed the hose on the bleeding nipple and squeezed the handle. Works well.Jut watch you do not over fill the master and ruin your paint.
Sandy
Sandy Sanders

Thanks everyone, there are some great ideas there. As there is a blizzard outside at the minute I think I will try the quickest first!

Two last questions:

1. When pressure filling from the bleed nipple upwards, do I need to keep the brake pedal depressed?

2. My new slave cylinder (it is a chrome bumper dual circuit) has a bleed nipple also, do I bleed this last or first?

Thanks again,

Liam
Liam H

A host of ingenious solutions to the same problem.
last time I used a 50ml syringe I happened to have, at the master cylinder end of the rear ward pipe. The front ones were easy, just pump the brake. The rea ones need a help. If I hadn't had the syringe I would have used soemthing like C holms dropout jar, and my vacuum cleaner. A bottle with a cork in it would do. Like C says, two tubes through the cork, one goes to the bottom. This one hooks up to brake line. The other tube goes nowhere near the bottom. Thats the one you attach to the vacuum cleaner.
Peter

This thread was discussed between 19/03/2007 and 20/03/2007

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