MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB Technical - Handbrake Cable Replacement

Since I have my engine & transmission out of my 74 1/2 B roadster, and the handbrake cable is at it's max adjustment, I thought I might replace it. However, I can see that there is a "block" attached to the inside of the transmission tunnel that the cable sheath goes through. Is there some way to remove that block? The cable sheath appears to be "fixed" inside it..or is it perhaps just rusted?? Would appreciate any input.
Thanks, Doug



Douglas Keene

That "block" you refer to is part of the cable assembly. There is a nut on the inside of the car that holds this "block" in place. The new cable will come with a block as well. To remove it from the body you will have to pull back the carpet on that side of the tunnel and most likely remove the seat to gain access to the nut.
Jared Snider

I just finished a handbrake cable replacement this weekend because of the cable being at the end of its adjustment on my '73.

That "block" is part of the cable assembly and I managed with lots of cussing and contortioning, removal of that portion of the passenger seat belt that connects to the trans tunnel and tugging up of carpet, to get to the nut for the block. Removal of the seat would make it easier to reach the nut but that's a frig in itself.

When you put the new block in, wedge it in with a piece of wood between it and the driveshaft otherwise if you try to put the nut back on from inside the car the block will fall out of the hole in the tunnel.

Also, to remove the old cable and install the new one (at least on the '73) there is a clip that holds the cable out of the way of the drive shaft right at the end of the tunnel that you will have to loosen. Don't remove it if you don't have to. The nut for it is also inside the car on the tunnel aft of the seatbelt bolt almost in the corner where the battery area meets the tunnel.

After replacement of the cable, I still had to screw the adjuster down almost to the end of its travel and am still not getting a real solid engagement of the emergency brake. However, I just put new rear brake shoes, cylinders, etc in so I'm hoping after bleeding the brakes and readjusting them (I already adjusted them once) things will get better vis a vis the handbrake.
David Hawkins

Wear in the handbrake operating levers will mean you get little adjustment left on a new cable - shoes and cylinders have no effect on this.
Chris Betson

I recently replaced my cable as well - the old one simply snapped. Yes, the block was a pain but I didn't remove any seats. After everything was back together, I too didn't have much room for adjustment - not very impressed at all. Cable was from Moss. I figured it was a tad too long but what Chris says is interesting - wear on the lever. Gonna have to check that one out...

Curt



Curt

The slot in the operating lever between the shoes gets worn and elongates. Seems like you could carefully fill the innermost parts of this slot with weld to build it back up, then grind and file to make it like new. I think that would work; about an eighth inch or less of new material should do the trick.

Joe
Joe Ullman

Thanks All...I may reconsider changing the cable and look at other potential cures first...Doug
Douglas Keene

It is not just the wear in the ends of the levers where they rest on the shoes - wear also occurs in the pivot.

New levers are available and are best fitted rather than trying to fix the old ones.

The levers shouuld end up parallel with the backplate and only a small amount of movement required to lock the brakes.
Chris Betson

I replaced my handbrake cable several years ago and found that the replacement cable was a little longer than the original, resulting in no adjustment at the lever. At the time I was unable to source any other.

Solution was to re-position the "block" mounting position on the transmission tunnel about one inch towards the rear of the car. This effectively took up the excess length and made it possible to achieve correct adjustment.
Brian Moyse

I just replaced the handbrake cable on my wire wheel equipped '67 GT with one from Moss , I popped the seat out to make it a simple job , the whole job took 45 minutes and works well , I have plenty of adjustment
left on the new cable .
don't forget to liberally grease the new cable _before_ fitting it .
-Nate
NSH

This thread was discussed between 25/02/2002 and 26/02/2002

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.