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MG MGB Technical - front end alignment

Just bought "new shoes" and need to make an appointment for an alignment. Right front was worn badly. The tires had to be 20 years old.

I saw in VB catalog a "negative camber set". Is there anything I need to say or ask before I take "Mary Jane" to the tire shop?
John
John

Camber isn't adjustable as standard afaik John. Usually both fronts will feather one way or the other if it's a simple tracking job.

Get them to check for damage from accident or curbing. Many shops in the UK check can alignment on all 4 wheels against the manufacturer spec for £20 which might be worth it.

Rich

Might be worth seeking out an old mechanic/gas station kind of shop, particularly if you have wire/centerlock wheels. The chain places in our area don't even touch them (which is good, because they'd probably it wrong anyway).

Might be good to take a manual or specs as well. The last couple alignments I've gotten they just gave me a printout from some jig they loaded the car onto. If they don't have the specs for a 35 yr old foreign car in the system, they might not be able to tell if it's right or not.

If you're ambitious/cheap, you can do a reasonable job of camber and toe-in on your own.

Steve

Steve Aichele

Keep in mind the tire chains are interested in selling tires and they don't usually have an old pro to operate their alignment machine. It's best to got to a wheel alignment shop that doesn't sell tires. MGB wheel alignment is simple as the only adjustment is toe. If castor or camber is out of spec. look for worn, bent or damaged suspension parts to include sagging springs.

Clifton
Clifton Gordon

Just saw an item in the latest Classic and Sports Car about a shim set being sold in GB to increase the castor on MGB's. Slips between the crossmember and the chassis. Supposed to improve steering effort with modern tires.
As far as alignment for new tires, make sure all the bushings are in good shape, worn trunion bushings or lower A arm bushings can cause uneven tire wear. The only adjustment is for toe in if everything else is up to par and tight.
Bill Young

Bill

Would'nt increased castor result in heavier steering effort?

It would be relatively simple to put a couple extra washers between the front or the rear mounting bolts of the front crossmember. You would also have to shim the rack mounting, or the steering shaft would bind.

Someone else must have done this before. I don't recall any prior postings on this concept.

Barry
Barry Parkinson

Maybe I read the bit wrong, could be decreased castor. Just know that the photo showed two long machined forked wedges that were supposed to slide in between the crossmember and chassis. I guess it depends on which side you install the wedge from if you get increased or decreased castor.
Bill Young

Frontline Costello wedge kit reduces caster from 7 degrees to a more modern 3.5 degrees. Cost approx £80.00 inc. VAT which seems a lot for a couple of tuning forks which is what they look like,they slide in between the crossmember and the frame, thick end at the front so you would need to re-align the rack perhaps they include a shim kit! However I have heard very positive comments on how much they reduce the steering effort at low speed and its a lot cheaper than power steering.

Kevin Jackson.
K.R Jackson

You can buy a 3 degree shim kit for rear leaf springs and simply cut them in half. Thin half in the back, thick half in the front. I think they run around $20 a pair. You could also use 1 or 2 degree shims, depending on your current numbers.
Jeff Schlemmer

Reducing castor will improve steering effort at the expense of 'turn-in' Turn in is one of those magical qualities that MGB's have - it's feeling of confidence and being on rails when you turn a sharp corner and the car stays flat and seems to zip around the corner with no effort. Reducing caster will also result in increased 'plowing' or understeer on a corner.

The grip of modern, wider tires will only increase the understeer.

Come on guys - you are driving a classic sports car. Once the car is rolling the effort ain't that bad.
Richard Smith

Reducing caster also reduces the car's ability to self-center the steering wheel coming out of a turn. Messing with caster also brings up another issue. Any more than 1/2 degree of caster difference between the left and right sides will cause the car to pull drastically to the lower side. Its the same effect as installing tires from two different batches. If one is shorter or has a taper, the car will pull to that side. We're talking 1/64ths of an inch!
Jeff Schlemmer

From the MGB shop manual
"Castor angle Nominal 7* (+1/4*,-1 1/4*)= 5* to 7 1/4* ".

No mention of side to side differences. I realise it's best to have equal readings but most cars with non adjustable castor have a big tolerance spread to compensate for variables that cannot be adjusted out. Same for non adjustable camber. There isn't much you can do to correct the variations unless there are some worn or damaged parts.

FWIW, Clifton
Clifton Gordon

I increased the castor on my car with shims bought from Advance auto. Installed them between the cross member and body. I did not like the self centering characterics of my car. Checked for any binding, etc. Installed the shims and much better. Checked specs on the alignment machine at work, and all is well and the car drives great.
Emmanuel Kafant

This thread was discussed between 24/06/2005 and 26/06/2005

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