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MG MGB Technical - Engine Compartment Re-do paint question

Next project after my fuel pump and carbs is to pull engine and re-do engine compartment. Can you just take the color chart, go to local auto paint store and have them make up spray cans of the color? How much do you need? Also, can you get something like clear coat to go over paint so normal work in compartment doesn't ding up the finish?

Thanks for any help.

John
John Bamford

John: Do you have the paint code number? It is in the Moss catalog and Clausager, amoung others. Last year I had a quart mixed for my color, Snowberry White, at the local NAPA. Had too much green it, but as I was using it on floor boards and other hidden areas I didnt complain.( I should have).
Next time I will try to get a match from a paint chip under the dash area.
I do not know about spray cans. Most part stores sell a kit with a rather tiny replaceable aerosol can and a paint bottle that you can fill and reuse. I havent done the job that you describe (yet) but I would think a quart of paint, once thinned and appled with decent spray equipment (borrow or rent it) would be enough.
Andrew Blackley

I used an airbrush on mine last fall. The bottle had to be refilled a few times, but the small size made it easy to reach everything - and I did mine with the engine in the car!
Joe Reed

John, A good paint store will make a quart of single stage urethane for you. You might get away with a pint but most jobbers will have a 1 quart minimum. A clear coat should only be used over a base coat that requires it such as a two part system.
Clear will not prevent any damage or dings. Clear is only clear paint.
I recommend you buy the correct color paint and aquire a touchup gun and small compressor. You will also need reducer and a catalyst to make the job look professional.
This is a process I do in my shop all the time. e-mail me for product recomendations or any questions.
Jim

Hi John,
when I restored my car I had some spray cans made up out of the paint they mixed up to paint the car with. The paint shop used the high quality cans with the fan pattern spray and nice, fine spray of paint. They worked very well for the engine bay, trunk, etc. so I just had the body shop shoot the outside of the car. When I had this done, it cost about $10-12 per can at the most to have this done, plus the cost of paint. I tried one of those refillable "make your own spray cans" once and it went straight to the garbage. If all's you're doing is the engine compartment and do not foresee doing any other paint spraying, I'd go this way instead of spending all the extra money on equipment, reducers, and hardeners. I'd have to wonder how much good is a small compressor going to do you for anything else. I have a 3 hp, 30gal 2stage and it works to run many air tools, works very hard to keep up with a blast cabinet, and barely keeps up to run a paint gun.

By the way, if you don't need to pull your engine anyway, you shouldn't have to to do this job. If you remove everything else on the inner fenders, firewalls, remove the rad, etc. you can easily mask off the block with big pieces of plastic and have plenty of room to maneuver around and paint the bay.
Wad Keene

John,
I'll be doing the same thing this coming weekend. The paint guy will load up cans for you, but it won't have hardner in it, so it really depends on the type of paint you choose. I'll shoot a 2-part primer after acid washing, then 2-part urathane. Don't know why a clear coat would be required, since it will never see the sun. I've used the fill-your-own bottle/can before with no problem. My materials will probably run $100. just for the engine bay.
tyler

Tyler,
If you don't use the clear, you won't get the shine as the base in a two part paint is has not luster. Also, most of the protective properties are in the clear.
Mike
Mike Hayworth

The phrase 2-part in paint is pretty vague. Tyler may very well be using something like DuPont Centari, which has been around forever and is most like the original finish. With that you have the paint itself - a urethane enamel, hardener, and reducer. Hey ... that's 3 parts. I think reducer doesn't count as a part, even though you don't use paint without it. Anyway, that stuff comes out about as glossy as it gets straight from the gun and if done well doesn't need to be colorsanded or buffed.
Good luck Tyler! Sanding and buffing an engine bay is a lot harder for me than the outsides.
Wade Keene

Thanks for the help gentlemen. I checked out the POR-15 site and found that in addtion to their underbody paints they have a very hard clear one as well that may work well over the body color to provide protection and a bit of gloss without. Will have to check on their compatibility but given the frequent recommendations on POR-15, it may be the way to go and will check in some detail.

John
John Bamford

I'm no expert, but I think "2-part" paint refers to base coat/clear coat, not to the mix of the components. I used DuPont Centari on mine and would definitely use it again. It's very easy for a novice (me!) to use, seems to be very durable, and has a nice gloss.
Joe Reed

I don't know what "2-part" refers to exactly either. Whenever I've talked to body shop supply guys, body guys, etc. they describe whatever they're referring to by brand name or specific type of paint, ie. Imron, base-clear, Centari, the PPG brand (?), urethane, etc. Never heard any of them say they were going to use or sell me "2-part" paint. And yes, Centari is good stuff.
Wade Keene

This thread was discussed between 02/03/2003 and 08/03/2003

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