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MG MGB Technical - Brake Master Cyl Alternative

Does anyone know of a good substitute for the brake master cyl on a 79 B. Since I have replaced the Stromberg with a Weber and the Lucas ignition with a Crane Fireball along with numerous other mods, I have no reason to put up with an overpriced master cyl.
Thanks
Larry Ewing

Larry. I cannot offer any alternative. A couple of years ago, I purchased a Moss brake MC for my daughter's 77B, the same one that would fit on your car. Reason was that I had several invoices from the PO showing that the current MC had been rebuilt. (This was done by the MG Shoppe in Tempe, Az.) They had not properly rebuilt the secondary side which has the brake warning light switch. The O rings did not appear to have been replaced and the system was leaking brake fluid from the warning light switch. Replaced it with a new unit from Moss (you can save a little money by purchasing through a Moss dealer/distributor--Jeff Zorn at Little British Car Company has a good reputation). That ended the problem and the MC has been working properly for many years. Yes, they are expensive, but they are on sale now. Either rebuild your current unit (it is not all that difficult if you take your time) or replace it with a new unit. As an alternative, White Post Restorations will rebuild your MC for a moderate price. Les
Les Bengtson

I replaced the original MC on my 79 B (I don't think
it had ever been rebuilt) with a new one from
ProperMG, which had them at a substantial discount
($179 at the time.)

Prices fluctuate a lot with sales by various vendors,
so check Moss, Brit-Tek, etc. Moss has a sale
right now on the late B MC.

Check the archives for advice -- replacement rather
than rebuilding is usually preferred, unless the
bore is in unusually good condition.

BTW, the 79B Driver's manual as I recall recommends
replacing all hydraulic seals every 36000 miles!
Ronald

Try this:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com
and check out page 102 of the catalog. Quite a selection of lockheed, girling and other master cylinders, all aimed at folks building their own system, and cheaper than the stock piece (although still not a bargain, IMO).
Baxter

Over many years, I've scoured many a self-pick wrecker yard and it seems that there are no straight
bolt-in alternative (from other production cars) for the MGB m/c. The mount flange and push rod
configuration, limited pedal box space, and British hydraulic threads all conspire to make this an
almost impossible task.

If you happen to be handy with heavy guage sheet metal and welding, maybe you can fabricate your
own pedal box (or modify an exisitng one) to accept, say, a Chevy or Ford 3/4" m/c. Of course, you'll
be required to have new special tubing made with the proper threaded connectors and flares.

Some racers use two (2) single-system master cylinders (they're practically the same as the clutch m/c)
- tied together with a pedal balance bar. Doing this makes the system more complex and expensive
for a practical street-driven car, however.

Another alternative is to contact the folks at Wilwood Brakes. They have a composite m/c that could
fit the bill (with some minor mods). The caveat here is that all of the mods will probably cost you big
(which defeats your "low-cost alternative" requirement)...and if the Wilwood m/c should ever go
south, your local parts store will most probably not have a rebuild kit handy.

I think you're best low-cost alternative - is to use an MGB m/c that had been sleeved with stainless
steel - and to religiously practice regular bleeding.

------------------

To make my (stock MGB) m/c last as long as possible, I:

1) Bench bleed the m/c before installing it in order to reduce the number of (dry) pedal strokes it takes
to initially charge the m/c with fluid. Pressure or vacuum bleeding eliminates this step. This saves
the new seals from all sorts of extra wear & tear during initial bleeding.

2) About 1, 2 (or 3) weeks after installing the new m/c - I re-bleed the entire system with all new fluid.
This helps chase out any abrasive grit or bits that may (or may not) have been left inside the m/c
during it's rebuild and has worked it's way loose during use, and is lurking inside the system.
Use a clean, clear catch jar and hose at each bleed nipple (- you'll be suprised at all the tiny stuff
and bits that can swim out of there only a couple of weeks after a new install).

3) Bleed the entire system at least once a year. More, if the weather has been especially humid or wet
(...so you're located in Florida, huh?). Personally, I do this 2x's a year (in fall and spring). Buy 2-3
pints of fluid, and bleed each corner - using up the entire 2-3 pints. Not only does this get rid of
any air bubbles in the system, it also gets rid of old accumulated moisture, as well as any abrasive
bits and grit that may have formed or worked it's way into the system during normal usage. All this
costs about $10 bucks and a 1/2 hour (using a broom stick as a "dead man's pedal"). Cheap. Easy.
Daniel Wong

Larry; I recall in the archives that someone mentioned Apple Hydraulics as a source for rebuilding MC's. I am leaning toward sending both of mine to them for evaluation & rebuilding provided the cores are good. Just another option to look at.
Perhaps someone else has had some experience with this outfit & can comment on their results. Good luck.
Patrick Keenan

In your rush to save a few bucks, remember that your brakes are the most important system on your car, and short cuts or barnyard engineering have very little business in the one system responsible for the lives of you and your passenger, along with the preservation of the sheetmetal surrounding you. I put over a grand into new PARTS for the system in my MGA and didn't bat an eye. I considered it the best investment I made in that vehicle.
R. L Carleen

RL, what did you do to your system? Is it std config?

Larry, some Volvo stuff might work but I'd go with APPLE, new, or race stuff.

Also, I curious why you didn't simply rely on your emerg brake. It should have plenty of braking power for limping home. It IS in good working order - isn't it?

FWIW - I know the 79 has a dual system but I had a wheel cylinder go on my 67 BGT(single system) years ago. The entire system went and the pedal went to floor. I managed to swerve to avoid cars, but the experience left me with a great distrust for single system brakes. Since then I constantly test and use my emerg brake. First chance I get, I'm going with a Wilwood type of setup. BTW, their stuff isn't all that expensive.
Fred Horstmeyer

Do some more homework. My bro in law and I each found rebuilt Lockheed units (minus the reservoir) through Advance Auto Parts a year or two ago. It took a couple of days to ship but they've worked perfectly. Check around with some suppliers.
william fox

My experience was the same as William's. Given the price of what was available through Moss or Brit-Tek, I thought it would be worth my time to check around a little more. I found a rebuilt unit at Napa. The first one didn't have a reservoir, nor the new o-rings to mount my old one. I went back to them and was able to swap for a unit with reservoir installed at no extra charge. It was cheaper than our usual catalog friends.

I've been able to find many parts for my '74 B at local stores, and often at better prices than mail order. It only costs a phone call, and can pay out in spades.

Matt Kulka

Fred...my brake system is completely stock. The only thing that remained from the original parts after I was done was the pedal and the two caliper housings. Everything else new. Most everything had either rusted, deteriorated, or just plain looked shaky. Springs were stretched and weak. Once I had it all together...a good bleeding and they work perfectly.
R. L Carleen

This thread was discussed between 28/06/2003 and 30/06/2003

MG MGB Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGB Technical BBS is active now.