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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - The worst job on an MGA?

Is changing the oil filter element on an MGA the worst job? Even with my scissor hoist it is a pain and messy. Digging out and replacing the (2) sealing rings and then lining up the head and cannister (with oil cooler hose connection) and getting bolt started. I always wonder why the filter suppliers dont include the bolt seal on the cannister base and the seal between the spring and bottom filter plate and (2) correct sealing rings at the top rather than one, especially specialist suppliers like Moss.

Renewing the gearbox oil is also a tedious task even with a 0.5 L transfer syringe if you want to avoid drips!

Or am getting too old?

Mike
Mike Ellsmore

We're all getting older Mike, 'tis what it is
Maybe time to change over to a spin on--
There are traps with them though--you have to really make sure the filter is a bypass filter with the valve in the end of it-
The most commonly supplied filter fits a Toyota of some description and there are two identical looking toyota filters , one with a valve and the other not-------bit of a trap ,specially if you're running oil that's a bit thick
The K&N filter is good as it has a hex for a socket on the end for easy removal, but again check for that bypass valve otherwise you'll have a bearing job on your hands
Weirdly they call the one without a 'full flow' but that means 'all' the oil has to go through the filter which is restrictive with thicker oils or more importantly cold oil

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MG-Mga-Mgb-to-1967-Spin-on-filter-kit/254132048107?epid=4012224460&hash=item3b2b7350eb:g:v~0AAOSwHoFXqT5X&frcectupt=true
or
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MG-A-B-Spin-on-Adapter-With-Oil-Filter/113810533877?hash=item1a7fa2edf5:g:olUAAOSwv5RdIo5Y

Also, my young bloke gets his gear oil in plastic bags with a spout on them, magic for filling rear axles and g/boxes---probably can't get them with engine oil though, don't know, but if you had one for your favourite diff oil you could reuse the bag for the g/box

Hillclimb down at Highclere again today, and, they've changed the rules yet again
Now it's either logbook or road registered so the unregistered club cars don't get a go
It's getting rediculous
William Revit

Probably removing the engine following the factory workshop manual procedure.

-Del
D Rawlins

Hi Mike, I installed one of the original B.M.C. Australia inverted filter fittings and have never had any issues with it, the O rings were replaced with the initial installation and as it's replaced from the top of the engine there is little oil spilt. I punch a hole in it as Barney suggests and wait 15 minutes before removal. I also replaced the threaded fitting in the centre with one that suits the Ryco Z9 (Toyota/Ford) filter as these are a lot cheaper and easier to obtain than the original filter.
I Hazeldine

If originality isn't a concern, I second the idea to install a spin-on adapter. It makes changing the filter as easy as any other car, new or old. If you don't like the look of it, you can paint the filter before installation. Most people will never know the difference.
Steve Simmons

I'd second changing the oil with the original canister oil filter. Only did it once and it took two times and with oil all over the garage floor. I replaced it with an inverted MGB oil filter set up. No mess, no fuss when changing oil. I do drive a screwdriver thru the oil filter to allow it to drain, prior to removal.
Bill Haglan

I Hazeldine--I did the same inverted conversion and changed to 3/4" thread as well
I went with a 2.0Litre Cortina filter, it has the blowoff valve as does your Z9 and the anti runback flapper aswell
It's the same diameter as a Z9 but probably around 2/3 the height----Z89a
Won't fit the MGA hangdown style adapter though, too large diameter, the Toyota/early Mondeo skinny long filter is the go for that
William Revit

I converted to a spin on, and am happy I did. In my experience, you can ignore the suggestions to grind a little of the bolt on the adapter, as long as you make sure you use the correct spin on filter that doesn't bottom out before sealing - I am sure there's loads in the archives.
Graham V

Changing the original filter never bothered me too much in the past, other than trying to get the old O-ring out but as I become progressively less inclined to grovel around under cars, I've wondered about changing over sometimes. My car seems to be steadily drifting away from "original" anyway.

Are there any clearance issues with either spin-on conversion (filter up or filter down) in a MGA Mk II with the original style oil cooler pipes/hoses and still running a generator?
T Aczel

No clearance issues for me, but I'm left hand drive. In my MGB which is RHD, the steering column gets in the way so I have to run an inverted filter. Still a bit messy compared to a hanging type, but not nearly as bad as the canister type.
Steve Simmons

Have people considered fitting the removable inner fender panels as on the Twin Cam? Even with RHD it makes access to the original filter much easier.
My vote for the worst job is fitting the rope type oil seal at the rear of the crankshaft on the Twin Cam. To do it properly you need to remove the engine and then remove the crankshaft. Trying to fit the seal with the crankshaft in position results in an unsatisfactory result.

Mick
M F Anderson

One day Mick, someone will come up with a nice half round neoprene replacement seal that can be wound around with the crank in there still
They do them for 6cyl&8cyl Chevs

I've seen a MG block machined for a Holden seal but the crank has to be machined down as well and the whole job looks messy, specially if you need to swap a crank out, also there's not enough metal in the block for the seal to fit up properly, they need a packing ring to hold the seal in place-messy

I've had a bit of luck in the past by just tapping the old top seal (compressing it) into the block with the crank still in and adding a bit to it then using the new bottom half--but a bit dodgey really

Here's a pic of the Chev conversion seal that just replaces the ropey,--- might look into that and see if there's one available mg size
Project for me, probably be able to sell one every ten years or so maybe
willy



William Revit

Hi Willy,

There is an instruction (5 pages) on Barney's website for fitting a neoprene (Viton) seal to the rear of an MGA crankshaft.
However, I still like the graphite impregnated rope seals. I have fitted many to Jaguar engines and a few to the mga twin cam engine.
I like the fact that rope seals never mark the shaft even after a very large number of miles and over 50 years.
The neoprene seals tend to groove the shaft. This grooving is also a problem in other parts of the car, the rear axle for one.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs202a.htm

Mick
M F Anderson

Mick
Some pics of what has to be done to fit the Holden seal--The guy that machined the block got a bit carried away ,the web for the seal should have been fatter to keep the seal located properly
I don't think I'd go this way again--just a bit too one offish


Block


William Revit

Crank


William Revit

A good job could be done of it but this block was overmachined leaving the flange too narrow for the seal. I had to cheat and pack the seal groove to hold the seal in place- ----Just don't like it but it wasn't my call


William Revit

Last---the seal


William Revit

Worst job for me with the RHD car is getting at the brake switch, even just to check the wires on the terminals. Trying to get your hands round the air trunking, past the steering column and all the ignition wiring - nightmare.

Close second but not required too often is removing the starter. This involves first removing my spin on/off oil filter. Always end up with oil in my armpits.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Hi Tom, my MGA is a MKII with an oil cooler and the inverted filter does not foul any components on the car and is a simple bolt in modification. As far as originality is concerned (at least in OZ) there was a workshop memorandum issued that suggested the conversion be mentioned to owners of MGA's & B's and that the warranty would not be affected if it was done by the dealer.
I Hazeldine

For me depends on frequency and LHD or RHD. And depends on dealing with original parts or bodges from DPO.

I hate having to work on or around bodges from DPOs, as these are rarely refined, durable or safe. Normally I just bin and revert to standard, unless it is already installed in my own car, then I stand by my revisions - definitely no bodging at work here. Most who drive my car want the revisions too,

LHD. worst job is wiper motor R&R, then anything to do with a twin cam in the engine bay
Non original parts is replacing heater lower door cable - usually lots of stab wounds in the back of my hand trying to get cable into the trunnion while it is fixed in the dash fitting. Easy with original part with threaded boss at the front, repro parts impossible.
RHD - anything to do with a twin cam in the engine bay

Otherwise I have a trick for almost everything - the right tool makes the difference in almost every case, probably even with a twin cam,
Dominic Clancy

I have done all the above jobs but no one has mentioned my worst which is probably rare, thankfully.

It is replacing the oil relief valve cap with engine in the car and exhaust installed but carbs off. The tricky bit is getting the thread to engage with a large very strong spring trying to stop you. Thankfully I have only done it once about 5 years ago and after several attempts I managed to work out a method but still hard. I have a feeling someone (Colyn?) on the list suggested a method once. Although it would be easier with a stripped down engine out of car I am not sure it would be that easy.

Paul
Paul Dean

I find getting the air filters off really annoying. I can empathise with Dominic about getting stab wounds from various sharp things. I have never succeeded in getting them off easily in the way Dominic has suggested in the past.

Separating the steering rack ball joints felt impossible until I hit on the solution.

Its interesting how we each seem to have easy jobs and hard ones which are different. Maybe it's a human body shape and dexterity issue. But of course there is always the Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance perspective too.

John
John Francis

Hi

Nothing beats the master cylinder and all the mucking about getting things working again, brake fluid everywhere.

Barry
B Bridgens

I'm with John on the air filters - especially if we are talking about jobs that should be really simple.

And while we're in that area, the underneath rear bolt holding on the carburetors.

Master cylinder always been relatively straight forward for me but Dominic's post reminds me of removing the w/wiper track: it took me a day just to slide it back in.
Graham V

With air filters it’s all about using a small ratchet and standing in the right place, which is with your right shoulder on the shroud and your arm along the inner wing. Then you can rotate the filter cover and feel for the threaded tube with the end of a finger. Once one bolt is in the other usually falls into place in seconds using the same method. Rear carb first for access reasons. Five minute job like this. But no help for the sinister ones among us, sorry.
Dominic Clancy

It's even easier with a Weber DCOE Dominic, you just pull the Piper sock filter off the bell-mouths.

And, just to rub it in even further, you can actually see and get to ALL of the exhaust and inlet manifold nuts from above.

The downside? Well ok,the fuel economy is down to 24 mpg, so I suppose any time saved in removing the carb is well and truly used up on garage forecourts with the extra fuel stops😁.
Colyn
Colyn Firth



A note for William Revit----Tassie. A silent address.

Would you kindly get in touch, with me.

Thanks .

Ian Cowen. Gold Coast.
I.W. Cowen.

I think the worst job (during a restoration) is to install the 3-piece front bumper. I made it even more difficult by adding a badge bar and driving light brackets.

Jim
JL Cheatham

Hmmm....Worst job (during the restoration) Dropping the distributor drive gear in to the oil pan while removing the distributor.

Lol ...The early engines differ from the later engines that have enough of a cavity that let the dog fall through.

Had to remove the oil pan to get it out again!

Its been over a decade since the restoration but thats how I remember the story!


S

LOL- Steve--
I've done that-grrrrr
Had a mate visit in his Magnette with a fresh engine I'd done for him and the dizzy was in the wrong position so thought we'd move it round a tooth -------yep, clunk
Horrible sound that
Spent about 2 hours with a little magnet on a piece of wire down through the hole, must of dropped it seven hundred and thirty two times but eventually fished it out
Just got lucky, it wasn't looking good there for quite a while
William Revit

Hey Willy! I didnt think you could get it back out that way! That must have been a challenge!

I did mine before the body as back on the frame ...so it wasnt too bad!
S

Worst job - getting the big split pin out of the castellated nut holding the wire wheel front hub.

Ref the distributor drive, it is threaded in the centre so all you have to do is insert a longish bolt with the right thread to draw it out, absolutely no chance of dropping it.
AR Terry

Correct ,the dizzy drive is threaded, but being a bit enthusiastic at the time, just removed the dist. and retainer block, refitted the dist. and was going to just twist it round using the rotor button as a crank and indicator as to how far to go----------clunk
You learn by your mistakes----------sometimes and sometimes you wish you hadn't been in such a hurry

That split pin is fairly straight forward ,just straighten it out with a screwdriver up the end and through the hole in the side then pull it out the hole, the worst part of that job is if someone has either broken or damaged the thread on the grease cap pulling stud---makes a bit of a job out of getting the cap out if you need to reuse it
William Revit

If you still have a problem with a split pin after carrying out Williams normal and correct procedure you can chop the pin down to the profile of the nut and then just undo it. The split pin is very soft iron and the remains will just shear. Then with the nut removed you can easily just clear out the remains of the pin. A rarely needed procedure but I have used it a couple of times

Paul
Paul Dean

Thanks for you suggestions William, Paul. I have done it many times over the 40 plus years that I have had the car but it always takes an inordinate amount of time. Hadn't thought of your solution Paul so will bear that in mind.

Thanks

Alan
AR Terry

Split pin from front hub nut - take a 5/16 bolt and grind a hook end on it. Line up the pin head with the hole in the hub, screw a nut on the bolt, insert the bolt and hook the pin head then use the nut to pull the bolt and pin out.
Might be a 1/4 bolt, not sure.
Art Pearse

Replacing the safety gauge on a RHD car? Trying to enter the new grommet in its hole with the MC in the way, fiddling with the capillary for loops and optimum routing.
Bolney Coupe

You know? I am upgrading my answer...Its pulling that little pieces of leather over the copings around the cockpit area of the MGA. I remember it taking two weeks stretching,clamping,gluing.

It was time consuming beyond imagination...looked great in the end!

My friend Steve Mackay showed me how to make them look great..he kept joking about how much time it took.

I was glad to have his help!

Heres the results!


S

SD Which vendor did you get your upholstery from? I am thinking about redoing mine and your red in the photo appears to be red rather than the maroon red that Moss has.
Bill Haglan

Nice Job ("Divine")
I used Elmer's carpenter glue as it has about 1 min grab time for the stretching. Also did it using smaller pieces, not all at once.
Art Pearse

Bill.......lol..Its a moss kit! Bought all the pieces of leather at the same time. Supposedly the dye lot was from the same batch so everything matched. In the end it came out better than I imagined it could.

Art the Pieces were just big enough as to barely stretch over the coping. We used a type of modern green upholstery contact glue. As soon as contact was made it was locked on..placement was crucial and the rest of the afternoon was spent stretching, pushing, pulling, forming, folding.

I remember thinking..How the hell do you mass produce these?

S

.....nothing like trying to erect the hood in the pouring rain while sitting on the side of an expressway.

Nick Kopernik



RAIN----RAIN--? We cannot remember what it looks like!!


Children on out back Properties in Aust., will commence their
Schooling--having never experienced Rain--

If I was on an Expressway with Nick--- and it began to rain--
I would stop the car-
take my shirt off----and enjoy the memory.

Our country side continues to burn.
I.W. Cowen.

Ian, we've been following the devastation caused by the wildfires; its just stunning to see what the Western parts of Australia are dealing with this year. I thought that this is the time of year that more rain falls, but apparently with the rain comes the lighting and more potential fires being started. Seems the cycle is very deadly; stay safe....
Nick Kopernik

Why would you stop to put the roof up? I usually just go faster...especially on the expressway.

Ive never arrived home sopping wet yet!
S

Nick, the real danger is dry lightening, down here in our corner we get plenty of wet through the winter which finished a couple of months back, then prolific growth as the weather warms up, then as fronts go through there is lightening without rain and bushfires start from the lightening strikes-
As fires take hold they generate their own erratic weather and more lightening, more fires and it just self generates bigger and bigger as you say very dangerous conditions
They've been copping it in SE Victoria today with people escaping into the ocean in boats and others driving their cars onto the beach
scarey stuff all up
William Revit

SD.....yup, first instinct is to go faster so rain is lateral to the windshield; this typically works for a while, until you need to slow down or stop for a light, or the rain gets so heavy that you're soaked in a matter of minutes. There have been a few times where sunny skies turned dark with an unexpected downpour; guess its just part of the top down driving experience!

William.....saw the news and photos from Mallacoota; just devastating.



Nick Kopernik

Years ago driving with no hood I sheltered from a violent rainstorm under a vacant carport. Eventually realising I was no threat the elderly lady peering through the curtains said I could park there any time as I would get her neighbours talking!
Barry
Barry Gannon

No contest. The worst MGA task has to be resetting the timing on a hot, running Twin Cam engine. You have to snake your hand down under the hot coolant hoses near the very hot exhaust to be able to loosen the clamp on the distributor and adjust it using a timing light that gets in your way so you can't see and timing marks you can't locate, while the fan is running by your fingers waiting to take a chunk out of you.

Done it many times, at the races. usual question is whether you will end up with burned fingers or burned and bloody fingers.
Bill Spohn

I suggest the solution to setting the ignition timing on a Twin Cam engine is two modifications.
Make up a bracket fitted to two lower bolts of the timing chain cover. The bracket comes out to the edge of the crankshaft pulley and is marked for TDC of #2 and #3 cylinders.
Carry out the timing from underneath the car. Use cylinders #2 or #3 for timing so you can use the original pulley marking.
Create a removable panel (see image) to access the Distributor.

Mick



M F Anderson

Removing the oil pan with the engine in the car is one of my least favourite tasks! Those front cap screws are hard to get at with any normal wrench. As for the air cleaners I saw somewhere the idea of inserting helicoils in the ears of the carbs to accept a cap screw from above - no nut underneath anymore - it works for me.
Tom Heath

Maybe you need to modify the front cross member as was done by the factory to the MGA Twin Cam.
Holes for the front screws of the oil pan.

Mick


M F Anderson

Tom,

The front two screws on the oil pan are supposed to be slotted nuts so you can do/undo using a screwdriver.

Best regards
Alan
AR Terry

Should have read slotted Bolts.
AR Terry

Alan,

The factory Service Parts List does not show two sump locating screws to be different from the others.
The screws are all part number HZS0404. They are hexagon headed screws UNF 1/4" diameter and 1/2" long.
The two slotted screws you have were probably modified for convenience.

Mick


M F Anderson

Tom

Barney’s site gives a method of removing the front sump bolts. I have used it successfully a couple of times. It involves small drive sockets and a socket universal joint, and it works fine. Still an unpleasant dirty job!

Paul
Paul Dean

Barney's website


http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of106.htm
M F Anderson

I have seen slotted front sump bolts on many occasions so it may have been a factory thing that just didn't make it into the parts lists.

They were too neat to have been done using a cutting wheel or hacksaw blade.
Chris at Octarine Services

Page 40 of the Haines manual on fitting the sump states 'refit the sump aligning the holes and insert the retaining bolts with washers (photo). Note that the four bolts having a slot in their head are fitted to the rear face (enabling a screwdriver to be used for initial installation'

So they are a factory fit item. makes sense to use them on the awkward holes.

Regards

Alan
AR Terry

Seems like the general vote is "Anything to do with a Twin Cam engine" from anyone that has experience of push rod and TC engines !

Dominic Clancy

This thread was discussed between 14/12/2019 and 20/01/2020

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