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MG MGA - Snapped off head stud


I snapped a head stud while using my cheap, made in China torque wrench. There is enough of the stud sticking out to get some pliars on it but I can't seem to work it out. I'm afraid if I am to aggressive it is going to break off flush.

Any ideas?

Before anyone/everyone sends reprimands I hereby promise to never shop at Harbor Freight Tools or buy another Chinese made tool again.
Jeff Bennett

If there's enough thread sticking out you can screw on a nut and mig weld it on top of the bolt. You can then use a wrench to work it out. The heat from the welding makes the job easier.

Best of luck,
Ian
IJR Renshaw

Unfortunately I don't weld. I am trying it with some JB Weld but I have never had much luck with the stuff. It's setting up over night and I will give it a twist in the morning
Jeff Bennett

IJR has it correct. Even if there is no thread left, slip over a larger nut and weld it to the stud. Wait for the weld to cool before trying to release it. The heat from welding will expand the stud and help loosen it, but you must allow it to cool (and contract). Ask around your mates for a welder. Good luck, Barry
BM Gannon


Jeff,

I can sympathise with you as the same thing happened to me last year, only the stud snapped off inside the block! In my case a lot of patience and delicate use of a centre punch did the trick.

Are you sure the problem lies with your torque wrench? My stud was brand new but snapped well before the required torque - suggesting it was either flawed or of inferior quality.

I ended up re-using the original studs.

Steven
S HILL

I had a similar problem last year when I finally finished putting my engine together using a new set of studs purchased about 15 years previous. One of them broke and I ended up buying a set of ARP studs instead.
Del Rawlins

Jeff, Sears sells a stud remover for around $27. It works well. I don't know the stock number but you can find it on the Sears web site. I think if there's enough of the stud stucking out to grab with a pliers that the Sears tool should work.
Good luck, George.
G Goeppner

The failure was most likly due to the condition of the stud. Use all new studs on reassembly. Strike the head of the stud with a big hammer real hard before welding on the nut. Shocking the threads this way can loosen the threads also. JB weld is just epoxy glue. It is not going to help. Once the nut is welded securly on a constant back and forth motion is most effective to loosen a stuck fastner.
R J Brown

The JB weld was useless as expected. There isnt enough stud left to get the Sears stud remover on it. I am in the process of finding someone that can drag their welding gear to my garage. In the meantime, has anyone had any luck with the EZ Out extractors? My fear in trying would be that I would only mess up the little bit of stud I have left showing making the welding more difficult.

This isn't fun!
Jeff Bennett

If you decide to drill it out and use an "easy out" aka screw extractor, take the trouble to find a drill bit with left hand twist. Using a left hand drill, very often the remaining fastener will back out on its own during the drilling process due to the heat generated and the reverse rotation.

http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=1455

I've had pretty good success in drilling out seized and broken fasteners, but there is a definite skill to getting the hole straight and not messing up the threads. I'd recommend practicing on a few bolts before attacking the block if you haven't done it before. Also, if there is enough stud left sticking up, file the broken part flat before center punching it. That can help in getting the hole started accurately.
Del Rawlins

The welding technique is so simple and always effective that to consider any other method would be foolish in the extreme.
I agree with R.J. the torque wrench was probably not to blame 99 times out of 100 this is caused by fragile studs or incorrect use of the orque wrench
Bob (robert) Midget Turbo

Irwin .....makes a set of NUT/BOLT extractors ...they work great with short stubs...set of 5 sizes costs about $25.........Tom
Thomas Koch

It really doesn't matter why it broke, yet. Your best bet is as stated above, with a welder. If you try to EZ-out the stud, definitely file flat before denter punching it. Also, if you have any lathe center drill bits, they work very well, and don't flex. Insure that you get as close to center as possible, and I recommend that you start with a small drill bit, increasing size a couple of times. This will insure that you are closer to the center when you start, allow you to protect the threads if you are off center. Easy outs do work, especially if the broken bolt was recently installed, but you must use care to keep the easy-out straight. They are very hard and prone to breaking if not kept aligned to their set angle when tightened.
After yiou get it out, you can attempt to determine what the cause of the broken stud was. See whether it bottomed out (most likely not). If not, you can tighten it into a bolt hole and attempt to see at what torque it will again snap.
Also, check whether the bolt hole is corroded or otherwise damaged so as to cause the bolt to lock up and cause you to break the bolt at torque.
Good Luck.
mike parker

This thread was discussed between 16/03/2008 and 18/03/2008

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