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MG MGA - Removing Brake Drums

I am trying to remove the brake drums on a 1500 MGA. The adjusters have been backed right off and the drums still will not budge at all. Does anyone have any suggestions?
David JM

BFH!!
Colin Parkinson

Colin is right, a "BFH" does the job! You have to be careful not to break off a chunk of the flange on the drum. I discovered one of the rear drums on mine has a piece missing which doesnt seem to affect anything. A definite case of a DPO using a BFH with too much enthusiasm.
I recall using tire levers on mine to get the drum moving and then carefully using a 4lb "lump hammer" to slowly work the drum over the wear ridge on its inside. This usually ruins the brake linings but you will no doubt be replacing them anyway.
Usually the wear ridge on the inside of the drum is causing the removal problem and you will have to either machine this off or replace the drum if it is really bad.
I believe you can use a puller for drum removal but I have never needed one so far.
I always apply the brakes hard before taking the drums off as this centralises the shoes and just may help.

Finally, I know this seems obvious but I did forget to do it just the once,
1 just make certain the adjuster is backed right off and 2 that the small countersunk set screws that hold the drums to the hub are removed before you start!

Colyn
Colyn Firth

Do the wheels rotate?
Art Pearse

As a last resort if everything is frozen, you can take the nuts off the wheel cylinders/pivot block from behind, disconnecting brake lines of course, and then you will only have to deal with prying the steady springs hooks off as everything is released.
John DeWolf

Had this problem on my other car. I found a hammer and lots of patience. I found it helped to tap it both ways - i.e. Also as if you were trying to put it back on, which is easier - once you get some movement in any direction you are well on the way
Graham M V

Small screwdrivers, big screwdrivers, tyre levers, working from opposite sides and various points around the rim, easing it bit by bit worked for me.

The axle was already removed so I stood it upright (on one hub) and could work from the top. Not sure why, but it has leaked oil all over the floor though! Will no doubt find the reason for that when I strip it down completely.
Neil McGurk

That is a brilliant idea John, I would never have thought of loosening the brake cylinders from the rear of the backplate like that to relieve the pressure on the brake shoes.
There is always something new to learn on this forum which is what makes it so amazing.
Thanks
Colyn
Colyn Firth

That might work too, but what I actually meant was to remove the whole assembly of drums, shoes, cylinders etc. and then remove the bits from inside the drum when separated from the hub, piece by piece. I have had to do this on one that sat frozen together for years.
John DeWolf

Difficult to pry a stuck drum loose, as the backing plate is particularly flimsy compared to the heavy drum and how tight it may be stuck. The drum is also relatively thin (thinner) in the center and can be easily deformed by prying or pulling hard. There are several methods that may work or not with variable success. See here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt105.htm

I have found best by far radial tapping with a heavy hammer will break the bond of the center bore.

If brake shoes are rusted to the drums to the point where drums cannot be rotated at all, you may have to remove the entire assembly as one piece. In front you can disconnect brake lines, remove screws from slave cylinders, and tap the slave cylinders out of the backing plate.

In back the slave cylinder will not come out that way. Cutting bolts to dismount backing plate does not help, as the bearing hub must be removed before the backing plate can come out. Better to leave the backing plate bolted in place, pull on the drum while you beat it radially around the edges.

If the shoes are rusted solid to the drum, high heat with a torch may ultimately "melt" the lining to allow he to release. That may require a lot of heat, so beware of fire hazards.
Barney Gaylord

Like Barney, I have found radial tapping to be the most successful way of freeing up a siezed brake drum, it has never failed for me yet. The constant jarring will eventually break the bond between drum and shoe or drum and hub. The key is patience and stay away from that "delicate" flange.
Lindsay Sampford

An easy way to remove brake drums is with a good slide hammer (4 lbs) and hook attachment. A very handy tool for work on MGAs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5223

Mike
Mike Ellsmore

I remember having this problem on a Marina I had many years ago ( alright stop laughing - someone had to buy them). I used a large hub puller that fitted round the drum. It eventually came off with a bang bringing the shoes, springs and all with it. The drum was worn on the inside and the shoes were trapped in the groove. Good luck.
Cam Cunningham

Done this on several MGBs I have parted out. The lining seems to swell and mate with the rust on the brake drum. Lots of pounding with a big hammer coupled with screwdrivers and bars and lots of PB Blaster. Eventually you will see movement and it happens. Springs and other stuff falls out and the brake shoe has moved. Drums seem amazingly strong, haven't broken one yet.
Bill Haglan

Thank you for all the tips. The wheels do rotate, so I will persevere with the pounding with a hammer, taking care not to damage the back plate.

David
David JM

This thread was discussed between 13/03/2010 and 17/03/2010

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