MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - rear hub leak questions

I am working on a leak in my rear driver side hub. After removing the hub I have now inspected both sides and the oil seals look smooth and fit, comparably to the one side leaking and the other side not leaking. Now with a couple of curious observations, after removing the axle and the locknut and tab washer, I have also noticed there is no spacer against the outer side of the wheel bearing. I opened up the passenger side and there is no spacer in there, either. Is this normal for cars fitted with wire wheels? Or am I missing this part on both wheel hubs?
Another observation, the O-ring on the passenger side rear hub was compressed and disfigured compared to the O-ring on the driver side which appears as new (no sign of compression), and is the side that is leaking. Is there any significance to this condition? Is my driver side leak simply a result of the lock nut lacking the proper torque when replaced? Or is the bearing spacer part of the issue here?

Upon inspection there is no sign at all of any wear to the shaft whatsoever. No grooves to see or feel with my finger nail scraping across. That is true on both sides of the car.

To replace the driver side oil seal, can I remove the bearing by tapping it out with a mallet and a proper sized drift to replace the oil seal?

Do I need to install the Speedi sleeve anyway?? If not, it's a $50 part I would gladly return.

A bit confused at the moment...

Steve
Stephen Lofaro

Steve, is there noticeable wear in the bearing, that would allow some radial movement at the seal? Just a long shot suggestion.
There is a spacer outboard of the brg for disc wheels only. For w/wheels the spacer is built into the cover
There should be a paper gasket as well as the O ring, and this gasket is part of the bearing clamping so it has to be the correct thickness. If you were missing a paper gasket you could leak.
The seal mates to the axle casing OD, not the shaft (sorry if this is an obvious statement.)
The big nut has no effect on oil sealing, just holds the inner race tight to the axle case shoulder.
Yes you can drift out the bearing. You can only access the inner race so in effect you are transferring force to the outer race through the ball bearings, so don't whack it too hard!
Do you have a workshop manual?
If not Dominic Clancy has one on line.
Art Pearse

One more possibility - is the breather on the axle plugged, causing pressure as it warms up?
Art Pearse

Where is the breather on the axle, Art. I will check it out. I think this issue is the O-ring. Just like Challenger...but I hope my car won't blow up. The obvious evidence, after inspecting all the parts, is that the O-ring on the driver side is not compressed at all. I need to figure out how to seat that O-ring. Perhaps, as AJ said, it is not the proper size. I am asking if the torque on the half shaft nuts are a factor in seating the O-ring. Does anyone know?

Steve
Stephen Lofaro

The vent fitting is directly on top of the rear axle, off center from the banjo. It is same part number as the vent fitting on top of the gearbox tail housing. The original stubby metal one is very good for both applications. The tall plastic ones recently sold as replacements are bad, as they tend to get broken easily, especially during R&R of the gearbox.

Everything about rear hub O-rings is here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra103.htm

Replacing the hub seals is here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra101.htm
Barney Gaylord

This thread was discussed between 20/05/2013 and 21/05/2013

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.