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MG MGA - Pulling Engine

I am about to pull the engine. I have read numerous times to lift the engine using the tappet cover studs. Has anyone had a problem bending these studs while pulling the engine?
It seems like a lot of weight to pull the entire engine and tranny using only two studs.

Ray
Ray Ammeter

They seem like small studs to me also.
When I lifted my mga twin cam engine I used a heavy rope, not chain, with one loop under the engine just in front of the sump and one loop just to the rear of the sump.
I much prefer the Jaguar XK system which has right angled brackets under two head studs. You can then use chains, hooks, and an adjustable balance bar to continuously change the engine angle during the lift.
A modification for the pushrod MGA maybe?

Mick
Mick Anderson

I have always used the two studs as per factory manual. Last summer, I discovered that the valve cover was loose because one of the studs had sheared. I'd therefore recommend using brand new studs when using them to lift the engine.

It's a good point to lift because the balance is about right. With a leveller, the access is also easy, and you can get the gearbox shaft relatively easily lined up.


dominic clancy

When I said that the Jaguar XK engine uses two head studs to lift the engine I meant two head studs per bracket.
The curved brackets join head studs on opposite sides of the head. This ensures that the lift is applied along the fore and aft centerline of the engine.

Mick
Mick Anderson

I was a little worried about the leverage and side pressure put on the studs by using the two separate lifting brackets with a chain between them. I removed the rocker cover, and bolted a piece of unistrut to the two studs so that all the forces were normal to the studs. I hooked a chain to the unistrut, and it worked out great.
Jeff Schultz

Hi Ray
I usually take the head off first outside so that water, oil and other leaky stuff can be washed away onto the grass. Remove all rocker gear, pushrods, leave front and rear head studs in place with nuts backed off a few turns. Leave 1 and 4 spark plugs in place, flick starter to loosen head if it is stubborn.

Then I use a piece of angle bolted down to the top of the block at the front and rear head stud holes, with a shackle through the other flange of the angle between no 3 and 4 cylinder. Attach the hook to the shackle.

Having the swivel point as close as possible to the top of the block makes tilting the engine easy. Having someone help with a rope through the gear lever opening and looped around the tailshaft housing helps too.

Dont forget the gearbox dipstick, and remove the crankshaft pulley and timing cover before removing engine. You may also need to loosen the rack and shift it forward slightly.

Drain oil from 1500 gearboxes, cover tailshaft opening with a few plastic bags tightly tied around tailshaft housing.

I have no problems using the rocker cover studs providing that I know that they are sound and that the threads in the head are sound. I avoid using them if removing an unknown engine, but I usually put engine back with the head in place using the rocker cover studs (no rcker cover). My piece of angle is also drilled to attach to the rocker studs as well.

Cheers
ian f
Ian Fraser

Hi Jeff

The studs will take a load of about a ton each as long as they are in good condition and well threaded into the block.

Having some sort of strutting in between them is an excellent idea, as a combined vertical and bending load may well over stress the rear one.

My piece of angle bolted down achieves the same purpose.

Cheers
ian F
Ian Fraser

Ian

Oil etc being allowed to spill onto grass is a lynchable offence here! There would be dark mutterings about the groundwater and so on.

It's also (I suppose) inevitable that the "with or without the geaarbox" engine removal debate also crops up. I always do the engine on its own, and can do the engine out faster than anyone else I know.
dominic clancy

I've lifted several MG and Triumph engines using the rocker cover studs. I've also used a rope sling under the engine. But to protect the rocker cover from scratches or perhaps cracking an alloy cover, I prefer to remove the rocker cover and use the front and rear-most head studs.
An adjustable angle sling thingy (e.g. Moss 386-730) is a great time and effort saver, as well. The whole process goes better with the gnerator/alternator and distributor off, too.
Fraser Cooper

I just pulled the engine and tranny for about the 12th time (over the years) using the rocker cover studs. At times, I've used only a chain, with the studs passing through the links and fender washers between the nuts and link and, at other times, various "L" shaped brackets with holes for the chain and studs. Just be sure to first take off the cover and then run the nuts all the way down tight to attach whatever you are using to support the engine. The biggest problem I've encountered is clearing the hood latch cross member with the MGB harmonic balancer. If you have an MGA engine, you can pull the engine and transmission out as a unit with no interference. If you have an MGB engine and the rib-reinforced B transmission housing, you have to pull the harmonic balancer off, separate the engine and transmission, or bend something (not satisfying) for clearance.

Steve
Steve Brandt

I like Ian Fraser's idea better. Take off the head while the engine is in the car and use front and rear head studs to lift the engine.
I think the question is not whether the rocker cover studs can be used, they can.
It is a matter of whether it can be done with a larger margin of safety, especially as these cars get older and some new rocker cover studs are of dubious quality, to say the least.

Fraser Cooper (not to be confused with Ian Fraser), Why do you use the rocker cover studs on Triumph engines, they have proper lifting brackets fitted. I suppose they were lost over the years. New brackets are available.

Mick
Mick Anderson

I use the rear most exhaust manifold stud and generator bracket on the water pump.
JohnB

Do not use the generator bracket on the water pump if you have a replacement aluminum pump, the cast iron pumps are fine.
John H

Pulled my engine for the first time this weekend. Check your auto parts store for an adjustable lift. At Pep Boys I purchased an adjustable lift for under $30.00 (Chinese made but it worked well.) It included the chain segments and 'L' brackets, with two more extra (four total), for possible attachment at four points.

I was cautious when attaching my engine to my engine stand. It seemed like alot of weight to be supported by four bolts. Because of engine stand arm adjustment limitations I had to use the 2 and 4 o'clock hole positions in the steel plate engine flange (5/16 dia.) and the two holes for the starter bolts in the flange (3/8 dia.). I used long 4" grade 8 bolts shimmed with washers to be on the safe side. -M.S.
Martin Straka

I also pull the head 1st since it had to come off anyway and pull the engine separately. To make it easier I also remove the front crank pulley.
gary starr

Answer to Mick Anderson:
Yes, the lifting brackets were missing. It wasn't my car! Some customers are even cheaper than I am.
Fraser Cooper

This thread was discussed between 07/06/2006 and 09/06/2006

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