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MG MGA - paint removal /media blasting

Hi,
I know some of this has been discussed in the archives.
I have removed my 4 fenders and want to remove the paint and rust.
This is the precursor to doing metal repair. I definetley have some good size holes to repair. Some are as big as your fist.

I originally planned to either have them dipped or media blasted. I am leaning to the media blasting.
The local sandblaster uses aluminum oxide at 75psi.
Is this OK?
Can anyone recommend anyone in the Boston area?
Jonathan



jonathan

Don't do it! High pressure blasting is asking for distortion due to the shot peen effect that stretches the surface. Talk to Cutters Autobody in Tewksbury.

I'm currently dealing with a set of fenders sandblasted by the "@#$%^PO". Shrinking stretched metal is not fun! In addition they were left unprotected from surface rust...lovely dust...
BOL,
Doug
Tewksbury
D Sjostrom

Doug,
Thanks for the reference. I'll check them out.
Thanks,


jonathan

Doug,
Have you actually used them?
I need to prime the fenders so that they don't re-rust. I will need to do metal patch repairs.
Should I use weld through primer, or self etching primer?
I'm going to get to try out my new MIG welder.
Thanks
Jonathan



jonathan

Not yet, But I'm going to have them do my chassis and body tub engine bay, trunk and underside within the next few weeks. A local FORD restoration parts store gave me their name.

For items such as fenders hoods etc, I've been happy with gelled strippers such as strip-eze.

By far the most informative and helpful site i've found for this type of advice is the message board and archives at www.autobodystore.com Be sure to download the "Basics of Basics" Anthology

I use weld through primer anywhere there is a spotwelded type of overlapping joint where subsequent finishing materials won't penetrate.
EZ Grind MIG Wire is super for this type of welding (.024" Diameter)PRACTICE FIRST!

My general refinishing plan is to use Picklex 20 as a rust converting metal prep, any skim bondo work, re-etch followed by epoxy primer and subsequent 2K primersurfacers, sealer, and finally basecoat clearcoat urethane paint system. (Fumes are DEADLY, supplied air respirators are generally regarded as mandatory.)

BOL,
Doug
D Sjostrom

Hi Johnathan,
Once I removed the body from the chassis, I had it dipped by a place that chemically removes paint and powerwashes it, then puts it in some sort of acid bath to remove/neutralize any rust http://www.mtlworks.com/#5. It came our great and revealed what I needed to repair but was well over a year ago and I just finished cutting and welding in panels (and have two coats of primer on it, yahooo!)

In the time it took me to do the repairs some surface rust happened again so I took it to get blasted by a guy that does auto restorations and it came back fine. I think the key with blasting is to get a person that is familliar with autobody as oppose to bridges.

If you do have a lot of work to do on the pannels surface rust will come back in the time it takes to do the patches so you might have to go back and remove the rust again unless you treat it with something. Especially if you use bare hands when working with the metal.

Good luck!
Doug
Doug

I had my 61 MGA body, hood, trunk, and fenders "Soda Blasted" (sodium bicarbonate). It turned out great. Soda blasting is safe even for Aluminum surfaces since it does not generate heat.
Ali Dadgar

As Doug mentioned, as soon as you have a body part down to bare metal it will immediately begin to oxidize. Touching it with your bare hands will leave marks as well. The best tact is to use an acid etching primer within minutes, or at worst, hours after stripping.

- Ken
Ken Doris

I had my car dipped by Redi Strip, you used to be able to find them in Hemmings, and it came out great no paint or rust. 20 years later the paint job still looks great. They were also able to do the doors and boot and bonnet. Gary
gary starr

I'm told that here in NY dipping is no longer allowed (at least for car restoration) due to environmental issues. Jonathan up in Mass. may have the same state restrictions.

- Ken
Ken Doris

Ken- I'd still check it out tho, no acids used,it was an alkaline bath with electric applied on the steel parts. But I guess you'd have to dispose of the old paint sludge at the bottom of the tank. Gary
gary starr

Johnathan,
I believe there is a company in Worcester that does dip stripping. I hear it's expensive and there can be quite a wait to get it done.
D Sjostrom

Johnathan,
I believe there is a company in Worcester that does dip stripping. I hear it's expensive and there can be quite a wait to get it done.
Doug
D Sjostrom

The place in Worcester is called Metal Strip of New England and is on Wall St. Seems to be a one man operation and does take some time to get things done. They did my TD front fenders last summer, very heavy old paint with some kind of asphalt undercoat on the bottom side. Charged me about 300 bucks to do the pair and took about 3 weeks.

He's had my rear fenders, running boards, and rear valance since last October and they should be ready any day. I told him I'm in no rush, (I'm not really) hence the long turn around time. If I gave him a must have date, I think I'd get em back quicker. Seems like a nice guy and would accomodate a tighter schedule if possible.

He also "pickles" the stripped metal so surface rust isn't a problem.

Pete W.
Peter Whelan

Guys,
Don't you have to worry about the front fender seams when dipping?
Jonathan
jonathan

I also used Redi Strip, on my fenders, hood and trunk. Great results. The process leaves some sort of protective coating on the metal, which does retard rusting for several months. It will not remove bondo however, so clear those areas first. Also, the coating must be thoroughly washed off before applying primer. The cost about 4 years ago was only about 10% more than soda blasting. I did elect to have my doors soda blasted, the results were not as good as dipping. Also, I won't dip my body clip because the sill/rocker repairs have painted internal surfaces which would be stripped, and the stripping medium can leak out over time all over your fresh paint job (not good!)
George Goeppner

I've been using aircraft stripper to remove the paint from my parts. When I have them down to bare metal I wash them to remove any trace of stripper and then I use a product called Picklex. It is a metal conditioner that keeps the parts from rusting. It also helps during welding. The only thing is you can't use an etch primer with it. I plan on using an epoxy primer, though. I learned a lot from www.autobodystore.com, as was recommended by someone else on the board.
I've had a part in bare metal with picklex applied for 6 months with no rust.

As far as media blasting, I've read that plastic media is the way to go. They use this process as an environmentally sound way to strip aluminum aircraft. I value my car too much to let anyone else touch it (Paranoid?) so I'm doing everything myself. If I ever pick up another car to restore, though, I think I will try having it plastic media blasted.
Pete Kohne

I am currently having my car done in Illinois. The car has been done by hand except for the four fenders which are going to be dipped. The reason the shop is going to dip them is that it removes all of the rust(which may be more than you can see). This will give us a fresh start for repairing the hole.
Jim Paul

This thread was discussed between 18/01/2005 and 22/01/2005

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