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MG MGA - MGA MC cap

Anyone have a spare MC cap? I need to convert one to a pressure bleeder. Need to flush brake and clutch hydraulics.

I'm in MA...I would be willing to swap a wash & wax for a cap...any takers?
rpb bunch

RPB

I would not convert an original metal one, they are worth a small fortune.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Instead of pressurizingthe system, try using a mity vac. It connects to the bleeder on each wheel cylinder and clutch cylinder. The suction from the hand pump pulls the fluid and air out o fthe system. I can bleed my car in about 10 minuets and I am not that fast. If you happen to have a lift it can be done much faster.

The only thing that you have to watch is the fluid level in the cylinder.

Jim
JP Jim

I always bleed mine backwards. I use a small pressure pot from K-Mart. fill it 1/2 full with brake fluid. Remove the spray nozzle and instal a small plastic tube. With the master cylinder very low on fluid I then attach the hose to the rear cylinder and after pumping it up I press the lever. If you use a long hoes it's not necessary to have a helper watch the master cylinder. do each wheel watching for bubbles to stop. Do each wheel in the reccomended sequence.
I do have the pressure pot with the needed caps but find that it created more mess and fluid loss. Especially if the cap leaks. With my way there is no mess except a small drip when you instal and remove the hose. Loosen the bleeder valve after yo instal the hose. I use a small ring spanner and leave it on the valve until finished.
Sandy
SANDY SANDERS

I used a plastic master cylinder cap from Moss and put a football inflating needle through the vent hole in it. I then used a piece of rubber hose and hose clamps to attach an air fitting to it. Works just fine.
Ed Bell

Will try reverse bleed this afternoon. I'll let you know how I get on. Seems like the best all around solution after reviewing all of the great suggestions available for bleeding the clutch.

Cheers!
rpb bunch

I looked around the shop and checked all the caps for fit to the master cylinder. I found that the cap off of a old metal Marvel Mystery Oil can fit perfectly. I put in an air valve, sealed with J_B Weld and put in a cork gasket.

Works great with 10psi regulated pressure from my compressor.

Jim
Jim Ferguson

Forgot the picture.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l306/liledoun/Speedicap1.jpg
Jim Ferguson

Okay...progress, I think...but not out of the woods yet. I bled down the clutch slave cylinder in conventional means (pump and hold clutch, collect fluid at bleeder end) after pulling out as much old fluid from the MC with a turkey baster. Refilled MC with fresh fluid.

Not much fluid pushed through the bleeder...I was expecting more continuous flow.

Then, I pulled out a couple of ounces of fluid from the MC, and reverse bled from below after compressing the slave piston to it's full forward position. I used a Motive bleeder pumped to 10psi with fresh fluid in the jar.

Test drive...seemed okay to me...but since it's the wife's MG, I had her drive it too. She had several cases of not being able to get it into 1st gear after stopping at intersections.(She's been driving this particular car for 3 years, so knows it pretty well).

What should I check next? Repeat the bleeding process? I do not have measurements on the slave link throw although it looks okay by eye. Do slave cylinders go bad without leaking?

Thanks,

Rick
rpb bunch

Slave push rod should move about 5/8" with full stroke of clutch pedal. It normally takes about 3/8" minimum to disengage the clutch. 1/2" should work fine if you push the pedal far enough.
Barney Gaylord

Rick,
Usually the slave would leak if it is bad.
It may be possible for the piston to seize, but I've never seen one do it.
Is this a standard MG 3 syncro gearbox? Does it grind when your wife tries to select first at an intersection? If not, and it is just difficult to select, it could just be normal. Pulling the shifter partway back towards second and then selecting first usually helps. I've had the very odd instance where I had to put it in neutral, let out the clutch to get things spinning again and repeat the above process and it always worked the second time.
Ralph
Ralph

This could be a symptom of the MC clutch seals starting to fail - something I have had twice in the last 15 years because of the MGB clutch in my car and the heavier pedal that is associated with it. Basically, although the cylinder isn't leaking, it is not holding the pressure needed to keep the clutch disengaged, hence problems getting the car into gear.

Check that the clutch pushrod is not creeping back when the pedal is depressed, and that you are getting full motion with full depression of the pedal.

It's easy to fix, but you really have to take the master cylinder out of the car to do it.
dominic clancy

This thread was discussed between 07/04/2010 and 12/04/2010

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