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MG MGA - MGA clutch replacement

Hi, I have a 1960 MGA 1600, since 1994 , About 2000 , when I started it, I could not get it to shift into gear, so I pumped the clutch peddle and the Slave cylinder piston came out and cocked sideways spilling fluid. It was pushed back in the garage and left until this summer. When I started it , I heard a very loud knocking sound and shut it off. Thats when I found the slave piston cocked. I rebuilt thr slave and reworked the rod hole. it was badly egged out and pin was worn. I put it back together and while bleeding The piston again came out too far. There is a alot of free movement on the clutch fork when not connected to the slave rod. Question ,Will a twin cam clutch cover (pressure plate) fit and work on this car? The clutch would slip slightly when throttling hard up a hill before when it was running. Thanks for any info you came give on this problem.
RJ Enck

If the clutch fork has excessive movement, enough to allow the slave piston to come out too far, and you are sure that the pushrod is OK, other areas are:
the pivot pin for the clutch fork and the pivot hole in the fork are worn,
the clutch release thrust bearing surface is worn,
overheating has caused the release levers to soften and bend,
the bore diameter of the master cylinder is incorrect (too large),
the bore diameter of the slave cylinder is incorrect (too small),
the wrong clutch type is fitted, even a MGB diaphragm type (unlikely).
Note that a worn clutch friction plate would reduce the fork movement.
Why are you thinking of a Twin Cam clutch? These are rare and not necessary. Do you have one?
The only real difference with the Twin Cam clutch is that the eyebolts do not fit into holes in the back of the pressure plate, but fit into holes in a separate plate called a "spider". This reduces heat transfer from the pressure plate to the levers, and eventually to the rest of the clutch, including the springs.
If anyone wants to see the Twin Cam arrangement I can load it to the Internet.

Mick
Mick Anderson

You will probably find that the pushrod from the clutch fork into the slave cylinder has been buthcehered, and is now too short. This will produce the symptom you report.

To test if the clutch is OK, just put the car in 1st gear and start it. If the car will run along without strange noises, then the pressure plate and clutch plate are probably OK.

The pin I mention is cheap, and is easily replaced. Once that's done, then all may be OK. If the cylinder is worn, then a replacement is not excessively expensive, but bleeding requires a few tricks (see the archives)
dominic clancy

The symptoms described are the same as my experience years ago when I first bought my car. The problem was excessive wear on the release fork pivot hole and the carbon-faced throwout bearing was down past the metal cup. Replacement of these parts (and a new clutch while the engine was out) cured the problem of the slave piston travelling too far. I agree with Mick Anderson's list of possibilities and suggest that you start looking there first.
Tom Heath

Hi all responders,
Thanks! The original rod from slave to fork has been welded and redrilled were the pin goes in. The length remains the same as when it worked. The pin was also welded and turned to fit as new. Looks like the fork pivot point is most likley egg out badly also. And the release bearing is in need of replacement. While apart might as well replace clutch plate , pressure plate , refinish flywheel ,ETC. Am I correct in assuming that both engine and transmission should be removed together. Repairs made and installed as a unit? I was looking at buying the twin cam components because I know were some are and price may be right. Would these parts work better or should I just order the MGA 1600 Parts? Thanks Ric
RJ Enck

Ric,

I would just use a MGA 1600 clutch. Only remove the flywheel if necessary. If the clutch plate rivets have not come in contact with the flywheel it might be OK, just clean with an abrasive paper. Clean up any abrasive particles when finished. If any rotating parts are to be removed and later re-used mark their originally fitted alignment first.

Mick
Mick Anderson

RJ,
In general, the normal method of removal and installation is the engine and transmission as a unit. I also think that you will find replacing the bushing and pivot pin in the "fork" will correct any freeplay there.
Regards,
GTF
G T Foster

Ric,
If you search the archives, you will find that opinions are divided about evenly on whether to remove the engine and gearbox as a unit or seperately. I have always removed and installed them seperately, and have never had any problem, but since I have never removed them as a unit, I can't say which is easier.

Jeff
Jeff Schultz

Ric,
For clutch work only, you don't even need to remove the gearbox. I just lift the engine until the gearbox hits the firewall, then support the front of the gearbox, then remove the bolts from engine to bell housing, and carefully lift and pull the engine forward until it clears the input shaft on the gearbox. You need to get a clutch alignment tool($5 from moss) or an old input shaft, so the clutch will line up with the shaft on reassembly.

Jeff
Jeff Schultz

This thread was discussed between 04/11/2004 and 06/11/2004

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