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MG MGA - Heater Box paint and engine compartment

I am embarking on a repaint of my engine compartment on a 1958 MGA 1500 Roadster and replacing the power unit. I am wondering if I should be removing the heater box to repaint the shelf area? What is the proper color of the heater box? Any ideas if this is too radical to try or should I be thinking of masking it? It seems a little tough to get behind the area between the firewall and heater box...but I suppose I could use some wire brushes to clean that up. Comments on this particular issue are welcome or any other of the details regarding the front rack and suspension colors, or any other hints to minimize the potential problems in removing too many items...for example backing out all the wires, cables, gauge fittings and so on to replace grommets, etc. How naked should I make this before painting? It's a challenge.

Thanks for your thoughts and advice.

Steve Lofaro
Simi Valley, CA
Stephen Lofaro

The heater is easy enough to remove, you just need to undo the small flanges screwed onto it under the dash, and the cable to the flap there as well. Then when all the screws around the heater have been removed inside the engine compartment, it will lift straight out. it should be black.

Mine was really scruffy, but with some spray filler and a lot of sanding it came out looking like new
dominic clancy

Stephen, the answer to your question depends on the quality of the result that you want. If you want it to look right, then you have to do it right!
N McGurk

Yes - you should remove it. And everything else!

The heater box is satin (not high gloss) black...but high gloss black looks better, IMHO.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Steve I agree with everyone else and you need to remover the heater box if you want a decent job. The philips head screw are sometimes rusted in and hard to remove. Use a lot of penetrating oil and let it soak in. Mine were really rusty but all came out eventually. Undoing the cable under the dash can be hard if it is also rusty.

I also used some filler on my heater box and rattle can high temp gloss black and it came out looking better than new.

Andy
Andy Preston

Andy:

Can you post a picture?

John
JRS Smith

I find that the heater box is easy to take out once you soak the screws with enough rust busting spray. Before trying to unscrew a fastener take the time to clean out the slots in the screw head to insure the tool gets a good bite and I have had success using a battery powered impact driver to start them. While you have the box out it is a good time to flush the core and replace the rubber grommets and gasket to the body. Don't forget that there should be a rubber seal around the flapper in the air duct. These are often perished and missing.
Keith Lowman

Andy et al.

I will post some pictures early next week to show what is there now. Some nice information from you all and I appreciate it. Getting under the dash is not an exciting prospect for me these days...ha ha.

Question...it looks like the flange has some adhesive or perhaps it is just the gasket that is bubbling out. Should I be using a putty knife or some chisel to release these areas after the screws are all out?

Stephen
Stephen Lofaro

The goop bubbling out is probably what's left of the rubber gasket. A sharp putty knife should do the job.
Larry Wheeler

Is there a gasket where the heater sits on the bulkhead?
Nigel Munford

Yes, a rubber gasket, AHH5253 is available, but I don't see it in the SPL...

Maybe it was fitted with sealant (Dumdum) in the factory?
N McGurk

It is in the Parts List but is listed with the Blanking Plate that was used when no heater was fitted and is under Body Shell (section R8).

Does this mean that the gasket was only fitted with the blanking plate and not with the heater? Seems unlikely.
Malcolm Asquith

The only screws I can see under the dash to undo are the ones holding the airpipes on. Am I missing something obvious?
Nigel Munford

Nigel

Under the dash, you are right that the only screws are the six for the air pipes. But you also need to disconnect the cable to the flap....

The gasket was also fitted with the heater

A good tip is to use brass screws here to avoid them rusting in place

dominic clancy

Here is a recent photo of the heater box assembly. Are the hoses the proper color? And what about the clamps? On the right is the master cylinder. Does anyone know the proper color for this also? Thanks.

Stephen


Stephen Lofaro

Hoses should be black. The clamps are not original. Your master cylinder is already the correct original color (slightly rusty) as they were not originally painted. If you want to clean and preserve the master cylinder while retaining original color, then clear coat with mat finish (invisible) would be okay. The plastic cap is wrong for a 1500.
Barney Gaylord

Steve, From your questions it seems that you might be a purist at heart and I think even if you did clean up and paint the heater you wouldn't be satisfied with the result. The heater would then stand out like a sore thumb among the rest of the bay.

With the engine and heater out you're about 80% towards a clear engine bay so why not bite the bullet and remove the rest of the bits.

Treat yourself to a copy of Clausager and you can see what you will be aiming for. For example the hoses will be black (get rid of the Jubilee clips), the engine bay will be body colour (glacier blue?), master cylinder self colour. I think the indicator relay was not painted (I don't have one on mine). Buy a new grommet set, new screws, maybe even take out the radiator and repaint that and your engine bay will be so beautiful that you will be proud to open up your bonnet to show everyone. It will cost you next to nothing except time.

To me your bay looks very sound and with it painted glacier blue, a maroon engine, black heater, etc. it will look amazing. Good luck.............Mike
m.j. moore

My A had the rubber gasket installed when I took the heater out for its rebuild. There was no evidence that it had ever been removed before. Besides anything that can help seal the cockpit from heat leaking in from the engine compartment should be fitted factory original or not.
Keith Lowman

This thread was discussed between 08/02/2013 and 11/02/2013

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