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MG MGA - Clutch pedal play

Hi all, after looking at the archive and not finding a similar situation I need help.

I just received a '60 A that was completely restored and rebuilt in the mid 90's. The clutch engages very close to the top (I don't need to push far for engagement). I don't believe the car has been driven many miles since resto but then again the most recent owner could have ridden the clutch. In checking a couple of sources it seems there is no way to adjust.

Could someone advise 1. If this is truly a problem (or I'm just paranoid)? 2. Steps to remedy?

Kind regards,
Jim
Jim Tatol

Hi Jim. The MGA hydraulic clutch has no manual adjustment feature as some cars do. The hydraulic clutch requires no routine adjustet, since the hydraulic clutch is essentially self adjusting as the clutch disc wears. You need to have a about 1/32" of clearance between the clutch pushrod and the master cylinder piston. This is easy to check right at the master cylinder. It is normal for the clutch to engage near the top of the clutch pedal travel on MGA's. The only way I know of to adjust an MGA clutch that is grossly out of adjustment is by using longer or shorter clutch slave cylinder pushrods. They apparently came in varying lengths! As long as your clutch engages and disengages smoothly, without grinding of gears, I dont think you need to worry. Cheers, Glenn
Glenn

I had the same isue/question, I just put a little more play at the master cylinder pushrod so I have to push the pedal a little further to release the clutch.
Would shortening the slave cylinder pushrod make a difference? I'd think that would just result in the slave piston not getting pushed back in as far by the clutch release fork but not change the length of stroke needed to disengage the clutch. Then again, I am not an engineer!
Steve

Glenn

I have learnt something tonight. I never knew the pushrods were made in different lengths.

When I converted my car from left to right hand drive I found that one of the pushrods did not fit so I made one. At the time I just put it down to different tolerances in remanufactured items.

How deep is the snow over there? Is the car put away for the duration now?

Steve
Steve Gyles

Don't shorten the slave pushrod. If you do, it can allow the piston to travel too far and fall out of the cylinnder (I have seen this).

I have also seen a case where the clutch plate was throwing over centre, and the levers had a groove worn in them by the release bearing arm (made lots of funny noises when the pedal was pressed down all the way).

The travel needs to be adjusted at the pushrod on the MC, it has a threaded end to allow it to be adjusted in the fork (which reminds me of the Two Ronnies "Fork Handle" sketch for some reason - must be that time of night).

As Glenn says, the gap should be small but clearly there (and don't forget the spring on the pedal to take the pressure off the hydraulics).

I have fitted a B clutch to my car, with a lightened flywheel. This is much cheaper than a A clutch, and is much stronger. The combination is, however, very sharp on the bite - until you get used to it it is either in or out. It's a great combination with the Supercharger

dominic clancy

Dominic

Over in the 5-speed thread Ross is asking for advice on his conversion. I fitted the MGB clutch in my 1800/5-speed combo and am delighted with it. Could he do it with the 1500/5-speed?

Steve
Steve Gyles

Hi Steve. We have had some snow, but then it warmed up and the snow is almost gone....at least for a short while. Yes, my MGA is in storage....well, most of it. I removed the doors, hood and trunk, and brought them home. I will be removing dents, and sanding these panels in preparation for the new paint job next year. I figure if I do these panels over the winter, there wil be less prep work next spring. With a little luck, I will have my car painted by the time the really nice weather arrives. I see you havent frozen to death yet, despite an erroneous report to the contray! Lol, Glenn
Glenn

Steve

I don't know the details of the 5 speed conversion. The B clutch in mine still uses the A friction plate (avoids having to switch the gbx input shaft). The flywheel has been modified to the B clutch pin layout (I have a drawing somehwere if needed). If the standard A clutch components fit, the B ones should too. If the 5 speed clutch operating lever has allowed you to fit the B release bearing, (or a release bearing that works with the B cover in your car) then it should work with his kit too. Basically, the only difference between the two applications is the locating pins in the flywheel. Either modify or replace with a B flywheel (but lighten it for the ultimate acceleration in any case).
dominic clancy

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2006 and 13/12/2006

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.