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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Very stiff windows

My windows are very difficult to raise or lower despite lubricating the regulator. They have gradually got stiffer over a year.

Someone has suggested I lubricate the channels the glass slides in with some silicon based lubricant.

There isnt much in the archives, and some of the advice is conflicting saying lube the channels and others saying dont lubricate.

Has one one else managed to lubricate the side channels to free up the windows and what with ? You tube suggests 3M Silicon Paste ?
C MADGE

Get yourself a spray tin of silicone lube and drown the channel with the window down,and down the channel between the channel and the top corner of the glass then wind the window up/down a couple of times while it's still wet
When it dries out it'll fly up and down with ease
---------------

151-High-Performance-Silicone-Lubricant-spray

You'd pick some of this up on ebay
William Revit

Never tried silicon spray because I try to keep silicone away from the car in case I want to paint it in the future. It's the devil to get rid of and will seriously compromise any paint.
OTOH I have used PTFE spray lube for exactly this purpose, fairly recently too, on her indoors' Volvo and the station Land Rover. It worked just as Willie described. I have 3-in-one brand, but there loads of them about. I saw it in B&Q not long ago.
Greybeard

Usual problem is misalignment of the front and back window channels. Remove the door card and have a play around with the mounting points until the glass moves freely. They are meant to be adjustable.
GuyW

As usual Guy has beat me to what I was thinking. And Grey with silicone spray on paint but you could apply silicone oil with a cheap "artists" brush.

Being a cyclist you'll know GT85, that's PTFE.

If the winders were working before perhaps the fixings have worked loose a bit - or of course it could be lack use of the car generally (got it in). :)

The silicone grease is for 'repair' when convertible owners have not looked after the rubber roof and roof/window seals and they get leaks that need more drastic action, whereas the oil is preventative or you can buy more expensive oil stuff that I can't remember the name of now.

(GT85 not shown)



Nigel Atkins

Thanks for the replies
The problem is due to several things
Quarter light fouls windscreen seal forcing it outwards when door closed
Lack of lubrication
A very tired door, the channels are not in great shape and probably need adjusting

I moved the windscreen forward last night so the fit between quarter light and seal is better
Hopefully some lubrication should make the window winder useable for now

The door needs replacing (rotten at bottom) and all the internals refurbishing eventually.

It’s on a very long list of jobs. If anyone knows of a good drivers door in the south west please let me know.
C MADGE

I don't know but wonder if the modern windscreen pillar to quarterlight seals might not help the situation, perhaps their profile or stiffness is different to original(?).
Nigel Atkins

It might help that I did some research on this and found that the modern replacement seal is "by the metre" with a consistent profile but the original has a varied profile over its length. I haven't used a new replacement so I don't know how good it is, but I do know the original fitment had moulded "bulges" that are not present on replacement seals. Can't comment definitively about the stiffness, but subjectively they feel softer to me.

(Why is it that the driver's door is the one that suffers most?)
Greybeard

The fit of the passenger quarter light/windscreen is a bit worse.
The quarter light gets pushed outwards when the door is closed and the metal channel has fractured as a result where it meets the top of the door.

Both doors have been repaired at the bottom and as a result have the typical midget door bottom sticking out in the breeze. That probably doesnt help with the alignment of the window channels. They also have the typical stress crack I have seen on other cars at the top towards the b pillar end.

The windscreen seal on both sides is really quite hard, due to age I guess. A new softer seal would help I think.
C MADGE

Sounds like you windscreen is raked too far back?

As for the door bottom corners sticking out - put a bit of 2"x 4" wood half way up the B post and push the door bottom in very firmly to twist the door back into shape. Don't be too gentle with it!
GuyW

Just as an obvious generality the driver's door gets the most use as normally you always have a driver but passengers are optional, which is why if I need to open a door to do or get anything on or from the car I use the passenger's door just to even out wear a little.

Same with seats, the driver's seat and its frame get the most use (abuse) so they'd be the one in shorter supply s/h (bit like Bedford van rear doors, remember those, thread drift warning).
Nigel Atkins

The quarter light being fixed dictates the angle for the screen, I set mine up by adjusting the screen rake to be parallel to the q/l frame (without a rubber seal to avoid distorting the adjustment).

The q/l frame can then be adjusted sideways across the car to coincide with the windscreen by adusting the foot bracket on the base of the q/l frame where it attaches to the base of the door.

The rubber does need some lub to allow the q/l frame to 'sit in' rather than push it out - i found a small crayon sized bar of some lub for locks/doors has worked well - I think it is silicon based but candle consistancy.

Grey where did you find a ref to the rubber being shaped ?
All the ones I've used since the 70's have been a rubber extrusion with a hollow chamber. Many seem to have various bits missing in action over the years and they do harden. I have had issues with the modern rubber stuff.

Check the rear runner is in line and not binding - a little lub on the runners as has been mentioned helps.

Also check the condition of the grooved bar at the base of the glass where the regulator arms run to lift the glass - these rust badly and can cause issues - best lub with white grease.

To alter the door kick out, I would take out the glass - put a length of 3x2 into the door cavity and lever as required to pull it in - factory mod !

R.
richard b

Guy after adjustment the drivers side is ok. The. quarter light lines up with the windscreen. On the passenger side the windscreen appears to be at too acute angle as the quarter light catches at the top.

But then the passenger quarter light frame is broken. For now i’m Just trying to make the best of a bad job and get a door the closes without catching anywhere it shouldn’t and a window that winds down.
C MADGE

The lube stick stuff I refered to is this :-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AGS-Door-Ease-General-Purpose-Lubricant-0-43-oz-Carded/371990462666?hash=item569c5c00ca:g:vocAAOSw1~JZTLen

However I can only find it in the USA - if anybody can find a UK supply please let me know as I could use another.
richard b

Richard,
this was the one I was thinking of -

Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Care Stick 100ml Roll On £7.95 (plus P&P)

I've no idea if it's any good or not as I've never used it (silicone free).

Other products and suppliers are available.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gummi-Pflege-Rubber-Stick-100ml/dp/B007TNOQDI/ref=lp_1733052031_1_2?srs=1733052031&ie=UTF8&qid=1555883410&sr=8-2

For door locks graphite powder is very good (or a pencil sharpener and good breath), you only need use a very tiny amount each time - Kasp K30050 Microfine Graphite Lock Cylinder Lubricant Powder 50g, get it at a hardware or locksmiths shop.

https://www.manomano.co.uk/lubricant/kasp-k30050-microfine-graphite-lock-cylinder-lubricant-powder-50g-4680091?model_id=4680091
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 11/04/2019 and 21/04/2019

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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