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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rust Proofing


Just looking at rust proofing the box sections / sills on the sprite and wondered what the best product to use was , would be grateful for any recommendations

Andy Sebring

I haven't tried it myself, but Dinitrol is supposed to be good.

I was planning on using it on the B when it's finished.
Dave O'Neill 2

And don't forget Bonda Primer. Great stuff, I can vouch for it over the last 20 years, and I've just used it again on my midget. Same stuff. About 30 for 2.5 ltrs.

The cheapest on ebay at the moment is 32.89 inc postage.
Lawrence Slater

I'd second the use of BondaPrimer - 25+ years for me. That and Waxoyl in my cavities (looks better than mercury amalgam !!)

SA Wood

I've used this Bilt Hamber product.
Comes out well in tests/mag reports and comes in very large aerosols with a long plastic lance and good brass spray ends.

Waxoyl I've found to be a pain to use as it needs to be hot to spray and not clog up the diy sprayers.

Found their kit to be good including the rust converter.
No connection with them.

richard boobier

POR 15 paint

I got a qt of this stuff, its amazing, goes right over rust, then I put a primer coat over it, then paint what ever color I want

Would it prevent rust ? I cant see why not

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

A word of caution regarding POR15. it is very hard so doesn't like to be overcoated unless you do it very soon after the POR15 goes on i.e. before it cures. if you don't you will beed to scuff it quite severely with a scotchbrite pad otherwise, whatever you use to paint over it will just peel off. I didn't find this out till I'd primed the whole of the car interior and engine bay in the stuff. Had to take it all back to bare metal to fix the problem.
graeme jackson

Thanks for the update grame on the POR 15,

I did prime (spray kilz) over it in about 6 hours , well before the cure time, and did not have an issue....your correct it does have a super hard shell

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I've had pretty good results with chassis black from Frosts and then brushed on waxoyl. I'll be trying the bilt hamber range next as it sounds very good. I will never used por15 again. I must admit I used it without the prep fluid and it peeled of a chassis like paper. Also if anything is exposed to light it is not UV stable and needs a coat of chassis paint over it. Also the first time I used por15 I took their warning about getting off your skin with a pinch of salt. Please take their warnings seriously as it is true that only time will get it off. Second time I bought the very small tins as you can't get the tin open once used. I had tried cling film under the lid and even resorted to bashing a hole in the side of a tin to get paint out. Awful stuff
W Clough

The best anti-rust treatment is a good coat (or better, 2) of paint followed by waxoyl/ dinitrol etc. But the issue is really how to get a decent coat of paint on the INSIDE of closed sections like the sills.

I have experimented with an aerosol nozzle on the end of a length of windscreen washer plastic pipe. I made a dummy box section out of cardboard, tried spraying the inside twirling the pipe around whilst withdrawing it slowly. I wasnt bothered about paint runs! Then l opened it up to see how effective it was. Well the answer is not very! The results were patchy and disappointing. Any better suggestions other than using a ferret dipped in paint?
Guy W

I used to swear by Dintrol but I think it's been taken over and is not what it was. My Midget is full fo the stuff but I did by it in about 1999!
Very good things heard about Bilt Hamber products - certainly their detailing clay is superb.

two ferrets?
Jeremy Tickle

As Richard suggests, Bilt Hamber. I used Dynax S-50 in a 750ml aerosol which comes with a 60cm lance. This enables you to reach all the areas that need to be protected and bearing in mind your car is finished, any overspray is easily removed.
Motley 5

Dinitrol. But make sure you use the right product:
ML for the first session in awkward to get places and box sections, it's very low viscosity and has really good creep for getting into seams that paint and heavy cavity wax can never get to.
After letting it "dry" ( never does completely) then follow with 77B which provides a heavier film over the top of the big surfaces.

Before applying cavity waxes, it's a good idea to prime & paint those surfaces you can get at. A proper top coat over primer on places like inside the wings and the footwell sides gives much better sealing against damp, leaving the wax products to provide a final seal.
Paul Walbran

I forgot to mention I used that too. But I didn't use it on the bare metal. I painted with bondaprimer first. The beauty of waxoyl is that any scratches, at the time, or subsequently, are then supposed to get filled in with the waxoyl, because the liquid stuff never really sets hard. But I'm not really sure you need both a good anti rust primer and waxoyl.

And there's one thing I don't like about the liquid waxoyl, -- which is probably why I failed to mention it. It makes me feel sick, long after it's been applied. Maybe the newest formulations are now fume free. But I bought and used loads of the stuff years ago. It took about 2 years for the fumes to subside. But in hot weather, even 20 years later, my Sprite can still give off waxoyl fumes. -- I sprayed the stuff all over the place, including internal cavities, using the long adapter that came with the kit. I just used the remainder on the Midget. It's still effective, but alas it still stinks too.

Coating internals.
As Guy mentioned, it's not easy to coat internal cavities effectively, if you only access them through a small hole.

While my Sprite is undergoing work again, I'm considered sealing all possible drain holes bar one, in the sills, filling them brim full with paint, and then draining out the excess. I guess it should work, but probably use far more paint than it really needs.
Lawrence Slater


You could probably do with one of those water dome fittings - looks like an inverted cone - it would give a 90 degree circular spray and slowly pulling it out would give even coverage.
Nick P

I agree with Paul about doing all the painting first because you don't want to get any waxy substance near surfaces you're going to paint. I treated all the surfaces on my stripped and repaired shell with Kurust; it's very thin and gets into all the nooks and crannies. A tiny bottle is 6 but I only needed three of them for the whole of the underside and inside (brushed on). I then sprayed Hammerite over it. When the car is finished It'll be waxoil in all the cavities.
Nick Nakorn

I have just finished rewiring an MGA Coupe that has been covered in Waxoil everywhere that can't be seen from outside or sitting in the car. It is horrible to work on, and the solvent has attacked all the rubber components in the suspension, bulkhead grommets and seals. But the car is literally soaked in the stuff, to the point that I expect to have some dodgy grounds when I start testing the rewiring
dominic clancy

This thread was discussed between 05/11/2014 and 12/11/2014

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