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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Replacing propshaft - eazy peazy

Got the day off today and was able to get on with the job I was dreading (refitting my propshaft on my 1275 midget). Previous threads in the Archives indicate that this is difficult and suggest all manner of clever ways of getting the front splined bit to mate with the gearbox. Ha - nothing to it! Well, nothing to it if you have a Heritage shell as it uses the same floor panel as a 1500. That panel has a large hole to enable the front U/J on the 1500 to be unbolted. I could just reach up and guide the propshaft back into place. Damn, I was looking forward to a morning of swearing and cussing before finally achieving success.
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Lucky bugger, some might say. For those without the frankenstein shells:

Put crap loads of masking or gaffa tape around the UJ until it can barely move, guide it down the tunnel, it'll slide in no problem.

Then drive the car 100 miles and listen to tape spinning itself off inside the drive tunnel.
Rich Amos (1330cc Blaze Red '72)

Well, I finally found the body bend which allowed me to get my arm up the tunnel, and with a lovely assistant up top saying right a bit, left a bit, etc. - in it went.
Nick

Nick,
I hope we're still talking about propshafts here?
Rich Amos (1330cc Blaze Red '72)

I just did the propshaft of my Bugeye last week. Two turns of masking tape was all that was needed.

BTW, whilst I understand that the bolt-on propshaft of the 1500 was the motivating factor for the change in the belly pan, I used to have a very late RWA with the same hole there. Yes, it was a 1974 1275 with no other characteristics of the 1500.
David "not enough lovely assistants to go around" Lieb
David Lieb

I have never had this problem, I just shove the prop shaft down the hole, then get in the car and grab the yoke and slip it just barly on the tranny shaft, with the yoke turned side ways so not to flop around, then GENTLY get out of car, crawl under and shove the shaft into place, then bolt to diff.

no tape or other junk....I have a 1275

prop
Prop

Prop - how the hell do you get in the car and grab the yoke? In my car the space behind the turret won't let a finger in, let alone a hand.
Nick

The only way I've managed Prop's method was when refitting the gearbox/engine. This way you can fit the shaft as the engine is being 'lowered' in.
Rich Amos (1330cc Blaze Red '72)

Certainly was talking about propshafts, Rich. And you were on my list of three or four who would ask.
Nick

It took me two minutes to put my mark 2 propshaft in with no tape, but I do have skinny arms!
J Lodge

This makes it easier.

http://www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=toomanyspridgets&id=panhardb
rob multi-sheds thomas

Nick, you make them so easy nowadays it's hardly any fun rising to them...
Tarquin

Tarks - I'm a reformed character, and I tried very hard to phrase it innocently, but I just couldn't find the words.

If anybody can do it, what with shafts, insertions and someone on top to guide it in, I'll salute them.
Nick

Should I have greased my end before putting it in???

Slid in very easily yesterday after fantasising about it for a long time - almost 12 months in fact.

Worried now I might have problems if the protection was insufficient - anyone had problems with their splines.......
robint

I just cut a hole in my floor pan (1275) - not going for concours though.
John Collinson

IIRC....I shoved it in so the yoke was next to the shift fork area, then 2 fingers on each hand to put it on the tail shaft...its fairly gengerly...but the key is getting the yoke side ways so that is rigid..then slip it on tail shaft about 1/8 inch...also I stadle the tunnel with a knee in each seat and Im facing the rear of the car.

prop
Prop

Also, Prop has the Datsun 210 transmission.
David Lieb

Actully david,

I havent figured out how to get the driveshaft on the datsun tranny, the shifter fork sticks way back inside the tunnel,
unlike the ribcase where the tail end shaft was right there at the end of the hole


luckly I put the drive shaft on the datsun when I was installing the engine....thats why Im having a tranny shop change out the Ujoint next week instead of me...I started to pull it myself last weekend and decided there was other things Id rather do....


prop
Prop

Again, an apparently difficult job that can be done easily (like the rear cylinder circlip) is you want.

I use a broom-handle taped to the shaft that keeps the end pointing ~straight. The hard part is to remember to remove the broom-handle before driving off.

A
Anthony

Sellotape a cardboard cereal box panel around the shaft so that it holds the splined end rigid. Leave a length of sellotape along the shaft so that you can pull the tube of cardboard off afterwards?

Alternatively, train a small monkey to clamber along the transmission tu......
rob multi-sheds thomas

It doesn't have to be rigid, it simply has to keep the shaft from drooping quite so much as it wants to. 2 turns of painter's tape around the front u-joint will do it and you don't have to worry about remembering to remove it as it will slip back to the diff after a few miles. Certainly easier than washing a monkey after it has clambered up the transmission tunnel of a Spridget!
David "all out of monkeys today, can I use Mickey instead?" Lieb
David Lieb

Another method is to loop some string around the upper spider of the UJ, hold the two ends and manouevre into position. Pull one end of the string and it's out.
Dave O'Neill 2

This thread was discussed between 26/03/2008 and 27/03/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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