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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - pedal position
I recently set out to improve the pedal positioning.
The brake pedal has always sat higher than the accelerator, and the clutch pedal higher still. It also looked like the PO has set about the pedals with a sledge hammer, possibly to increase the spacing. The clutch pedal had an adjustable push rod, but even when shortened to the min was still overly long, resulting in the raised pedal. I opted to replace both cylinders at the same time. I've "tuned" the pedal position by inserting washers under the mounting plates, approx 5mm on the brake and 2mm on the clutch. Now both pedals are in line and closer to the floor making for a more natural foot position when driving. This has obviously reduced the clutch travel, but the usual midget problem of lack of travel doesn't occur as the car has a mazada five speed box. The clutch operates right at the start of the travel. Eventually I will replace the washers with custom spacer plates once I'm happy I have the correct thickness. Making a pair of adjustable push rods is the alternative but I didn't want to start dismantling the new cylinders then cutting / welding etc. and the spacers are an easier option for me. I didn't check but think that changing from original lockheed to aftermarket cylinders will change the pedal position to some degree anyway. ![]() |
S Macfarlane |
I like the idea of packing the cylinders out, it makes it a lot more user friendly if you have to replace a cylinder sometime,- keeping the cylinder std.for easy replacement.
As for the accelerator pedal, they're usually lower set than the other pedals for a couple of reasons-- #1--so that your foot is in a more natural/comfortable position allowing you to drive with your heel resting on the floor,comfortably, and #2--important to have the pedal lower than the brake so that with normal driving you can't accidentally slide your foot accross and engage both pedals at the same time--there needs to be that mental message -of needing to lift your foot a bit to use the brake. Also if you're a sporty heel/toe driver it brings the pedals into better alignment when braking to give the throttle a blip. willy |
William Revit |
The other reason is that the throttle pedal needs to be touching (and supported by) the floor at the point of WOT - in other words, coinciding with the limit of the cable travel.
If not, a heavy foot can very easily distort the firewall panel and pull it out of shape. If this happens the cable will be offset at an angle at "closed throttle" position (when the return spring effort is least) and the cable drag can prevent the throttle closing cleanly. It's an easy thing to fix but it's very easy to overlook - the temptation is to add more/stronger springs which is unnecessary. All a bit geeky I suppose, but true nonetheless. |
Greybeard |
Good point Grey. and often overlooked. It amazes me how many racing cars fail because their throttle cable gets broken and it's preventable as you say to make sure the pedal bottoms out before there's the big stretch on the cable. |
William Revit |
The throttle pedal has an adjustable back stop to prevent overstretching |
S Macfarlane |
>>The throttle pedal has an adjustable back stop to prevent overstretching<< I didn't know that! I never thought to look for it. And now I can't check because I have sold my Midget. |
Greybeard |
Can't say I've seen one on a Sprite/Midget, the only pedal adjuster is right next to where the cable goes in and is used for adjusting out free movement when the pedal is in the released position, it's hardly needed really as gravity holds the pedal in place----important to have the split pin in the end of the pedal arm though otherwise the cable can be flipped out.
I usually jam the pedal to the floor, then adjust the cable to 'just' get full throttle, then when the pedal is released back to rest it sits where it should, then if it has a return stop bolt, screw it down till it touches the pedal arm then back half a turn or a full turn-ish for clearance and tighten the locknut |
William Revit |
ah yes - its just me!
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S Macfarlane |
Thanks for that--certainly looks adjustable- Here's a pic of the travel stop bracket that is often missing on MGB's ![]() |
William Revit |
This thread was discussed between 17/03/2025 and 26/03/2025
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